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All of the demonstrations in the online classes show the honing compound being applied directly before honing. I can see the teaching value of doing this in sequence; however, it is not the most effective time to apply the compound.

The online classes mention that the honing compound works best when it is almost dry. I would suggest that it should be applied the first thing after the cover is removed to give it as much time as practical to dry.

Ken

Kevin,

Your printed copy of the handbook should be a working book. Mine has a lot of underlining and hilighting. I note page numbers with topics in the front as well as notes in the margins.

Inside the cover is a good place to note the serial number, date and dealer name and contact information.

Make sure to have a copy, either printed or online of the handbook in your primary language.

Ken

I agree withRick about the importance of honing. I would also recommend the MB-100.

Several of the online classes mention making the lastpass ofthe grinding processes with verylight grinding pressure. Do this on bothbevels of knives toreduce the size of the burr before using the leather honing wheel.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, MMM.

My advice may not be popular with the forum or what you want to hear.

Don't short circuit your sharpening skill education by starting out with too much gear or too many grinding wheels. Stay with just the SG until you thoroughly master it. Give yourself the opportunity to learn the craft. Study the handbook and the online classes. Spend time sharpening on learning tools.

Keep us posted.

Ken

Welcometo the forum, Kevin.

First suggestion, have you seriously digested the habdbook?

If, by chance, you do not have a copy of the print edition of the handbook, when youregister your Tormek on the Tormek website, you can download the latest online edition. I downloaded it on my iad and refer to it often.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Marcel.

The closest I could find to your question was starting at around eleven minutes on this online class video:

https://www.youtube.com/live/DajdnpeOUF4?si=KPPC1z7kigLk2442

That may not be exactly the tool you want to sharpen. I suggestyou email yourquestion and photos to support (support@tormek.se)

Ken

Dan,

I did an online srarch on how hard are Victory knives:

"People also ask
What steel does Victory knives use?
Victory contines to thrive by maintaining the highest standards in manufacture and materials, building on its reputation for unsurpassed quality. The stainless steel blade is made from German Krup steel, hardened to a hardness of 54-55 HRC.
https://www.huntgathergrow.com.au › ...
Victory Knives - Hunt Gather Grow"

I am no metalurgist, however, most kitchen knives seem to be in the 58 to 60 range. That would indicate to me that the steel in Victory knives is softer than typical and better suited to non superabrasive knives, meaning not CBN or diamond wheels.

I consider the Tormek online classes the most reliable source on Tormek. A frequent question in several of the classes is asking for a recommended wheel of choice for knives and chisels. The Tormek instructors have access to any of the Tormek wheels. They consistently recommend the SG-250.

I am also aware of extensive direct and indirect marketing of CBN wheels. CBN and diamond wheels have their place with the Tormek, but not especially with kitchen knives. I would suggest sorting your knives to be sorted. Use the SG-250 for the knives with softer steel. Make sure your SG-250 is well tuned with the TT-50 and stone grader, Then, switch to your superabrasive wheel for the knives with harder steel.

Ken

Here is a list of dealers in North Carolina:

https://tormek.com/en/support/where-to-buy/woodworking--crafts

One is listed in Raleigh. I Living in Ohio, I have no personal experience good or bad with any of them.
I do have long, positive experience (over fifty years) with Hartville Hardware and more recent positive experience with Sharpening Supplies. My gut feeling is that any of the listed dealers should treat you right.

You will need the SE-77 for chisels and plane blades; a
KJ-45 for almost all kitchen knives; and the axe jig.

I would recommend staying with just the DF-250 grinding wheel at the start.

I recommend getting a small square. A turkey baster, coffee filter and plastic jar will help recover the ACC.

Be sure to study the Tormek online classes. They are an xcellent learning resource.

Keep us posted.

Ken

Herman,

If you are ever in the Philadelphia/ South Jersey area, Edmund's in Barrington is a very short drive and well worth it.

In addition to the Mad Scientist Room, be sure to try out the submarine periscope going from the main floor to above the room. It is good to nourish your scientist's inner child!

Plenty of educational stuff, too.

Ken

Hat,
The planer jig is one of the very few jigs I have purchased used (or already purchased) off of ebay. As it turned out, the blades on my "lunchbox" planer are not designed to be sharpened, so I have never used it. Others may have had the same experience and may want to sell.
(In case you are thinking it, I am keeping mine for reference in answering forum questions and am not interested in selling.)
Good luck.

Ken

Hat, the answer is yes. All the Tormek jigs are backward compatable.

Ken

Herman,

Thanks for reminding me about one of the magic places in my life. I grew up in Camden County, New Jersey, about ten miles from Edmund Scientific Company in Barrington. Edmund's started in 1942 selling surplus optics. Edmund's used to have a barrel of free stuff. Dad made me a periscope from two free surplus tank prisms as a Christmas present. I still have it.

I visited Edmund's several years looking for a set of scales for my photo darkroom. I found a nice Ohaus triple beam balance. While there, I enjoyed "The Mad Scientiist Room" filled with all kinds of used and surplus lab equipment, a tinker's paradise. They also carry an impressive variety of optical gear and science projects.

Definitely a magic place. . . .

Ken

Matthew,

I cannot fault CB's comments; however, I do believe you T3 can handle your light duty home shop needs. I don't think you would go wrong either way. CB is correct about the thirty minute duty cycle, although, I don't think it will be a real world constraint for for. I don't recall any problems being posted on the forum with overheating or inaccuracy. If you are concerned about these, the safe play is a new T4 with an eight year warranty.

Ken

Posts from Rob, Herman, and Elden within a week! Three of our stalwart members
It is a good week!

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Matthew.

You ask good questions. If I was in your shoes and wanted to sharpen chisels and my bench plane blades, I would stay with the T3. The T3 is definitely designed for lighter duty than the redesigned T4 which replaced it in 2014 or the professional duty larger T8. However, home use with woodworking tools is definitely in the "hobby" range of the T3. (Also included in this range are typical kitchen knives.)

The jigs and accessories work with all Tormek models. I would compare your T3 with my 2013 Equinox automobile. It runs well and serves my purpose. It will not depreciate much if I keep it for several more years.

What you need now is knowledge. I suggest you register your T3 on tormek.com. It is long past the warranty period, however, registering it lets you access and download the latest version of the online handbook at no charge. We now have an excellent seriesof online videos on the Tormek youtube channel.

Regarding an inexpensive, coarser wheel, I strongly recommend learning how to maximize your present grinding wheel first. Learn how to true and dress your grinding wheel. Learn how to grade it with the stone grader. Heavy grinding should only be a one time occurance. After that, keep your tools sharp. An optimized grinding wheel, a cup of coffee and patience will carry the day with the initial sharpening.

Keep us posted.

Ken