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Thank you Rick!!!

I am also going to try this routine and will post my experience here.
(I also have a SJ-250 wheel).


Wim

Good morning dear members,

Mr. Vadim of Knifegrinders in his excellent book, gives examples of grinding routines. Among these, he assumes "paper wheels with autosol'.
But if you only have a Tormek, can you assume a 'leather wheel with Tormek paste'?

If not, what is the best alternative, if you don't work with paper wheels?

Wim

I slightly modified my depth gauge

Today I received some additional information from the BESS forum, about what happens, when you use the BESS tester. This I would like to share with you:

"So what does this mean when taking a sharpness reading? 

Let's consider a 150 sharpness edge.  Imagine that while taking a sharpness reading you get bumped causing the tester display to jump to 25g.  Do you need to tare the scale and start over?  No!  Because with a 150 sharpness edge, 150g of force is needed to sever the test media.  Simply continue the test until the media severs.  In this instance as force is applied to the blade the tester will display 25g until the applied force exceeds 25g at which time the tester will display the new greater force.

In other words you could start a test, get half way through, go to lunch, come back and continue the test.  The only thing that matters is the amount of force applied to the test media by the knife edge when the media severs.  That force value is the sharpness reading and what will be displayed on the tester.  "

Greetings, Wim

This is an answer I got through BESS's forum (see Ken's post above):

"Attempting to place a weight on the tester by hand without influencing the tester is almost impossible.  If the object is released above the pressure plate, even by a tiny distance, so that it falls onto the pressure plate the displayed force will vary from the resting weight of the object.  If the object is pressed onto the pressure plate, the displayed weight will vary from the resting weight of the object due to the influence of your hand."


It matches with previous responses above.

Now I have repeated test and when I very, very carefully put a block of wood on the BESS tester it practically matches the weight measured on an accurate kitchen scale.

If I repeat that on the BESS tester, so very carefully placing that block of wood, the measured values are not much different.

In itself, this is a good exercise to see for yourself how carefully you have to handle the knife on the BESS tester for a good measurement. I did look up at that. Instructive for me.

Thanks for thinking with me!
Wim

Thanks for the inspiring comments. The device is new. I can check the batteries briefly, but I don't expect anything from them.

I myself also feel that the peak load of setting will be the influence. That is remembered and he weight of the wooden block is added to that. If so, then very careful placement of the blade on the wire is very, very important.

I will email Mike Brubacher as Ken suggests.

I notice something strange with the BESS sharpness tester

If I put a block of wood on a digital accurate scale, it weighs (for example) 46.5 grams. If I press tara and weigh that same block again, it again weighs 46.5 grams. That's the way it's supposed to be.

But with my BESS sharpness tester (Edge-On-Up PT50A), I measure a much higher value for the same block of wood: 57 grams.

If I repeat the same measurement as described above on the BESS scale, the results vary: 57 grams, 60 grams, 58 grams 74 grams, and so on.

That there is a difference between scales, I can understand, but the difference is substantial. But that the same cube on the BESS scale gives different measurement results, I find strange.

I do have an idea that difference occurs with putting the block of wood on it. If I put it on more forcefully, I get a higher value than if I put it on more subtly.

Maybe I shouldn't think of my BESS sharpness tester as a "scale.

Who can tell me a little more about this

But you can also buy one here?
This one also satisfies well.

https://schleifjunkies.de/en/product/length-measuring-block-for-knives/

But you can also buy one here?
This one also satisfies well.

https://schleifjunkies.de/en/product/length-measuring-block-for-knives/

In a topic I showed my copy, made of wood. You could also convert this one into 3D. I have no experience with that.

https://forum.tormek.com/index.php/topic,4667.msg33403.html#msg33403

Perhaps no longer applicable for TS. But I made my own FVB out of wood and so far that works superbly too.
You do need to be able to work wood accurately

See my post:

https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=profile;u=33597;area=showposts;start=30

I myself also sharpen my chisels on the Tormek T8. Started 52 years ago (at school) sharpening chisels on a rotary sandstone and then honing on a Belgian sharpening stone. But now I sharpen, to my complete satisfaction, on the T8.

Personally, I use the following stones:

- DC-250 (coarse). Sometimes chisels are so damaged that a whole new bevel has to be sharpened. But actually I always use these as the first stone, even if it's only a few strokes. It's a good start.

- DF-250 (medium). I use this one as a transition to the DE-250 (extra fine). A few strokes are sufficient.

- DE-250 (fine). This makes the grinding surface finer again. I found that to be necessary.

Because the fold is slightly concave because of the round stone, I hone the stone with a fine honingstone (the Belgian sharpening stone). Only at the edge then a very sharp and reflective surface of a few millimeters is created, and thus not on the entire surface. That is also not necessary.

The reason that I have not yet used the SJ-250 for this has to do with the fact that a chisel often needs to be wet again after some use.
But I will try it again with the SJ-250.

In the Netherlands and Belgium, all carpenters used to use the Belgian sharpeningstone. But you can also replace that with any quality honing stone, somewhere between 4000 and 8000 grid.

[I hope my explanation from Dutch to English has become understandable]

I am experiencing another personal problem with the 2 knobs:
I have the blade set on the back knob. I started with that too, but after changing a stone, I accidentally started using the front knob.

A moment of inattention, has caused me to have to do this sharpening phase all over again. That takes time and steel......

If it is for occasional grinding, then it can also be done out of hand. In doing so, I would use the USB as a support, though, the moment you find the right sharpening angle.

I would sharpen the inside of the gouge on a special whetstone, as mentioned for example in the link below.
https://www.fine-tools.com/bildhauereisen-schaerfsteine.html
In fact, you then sharpen the gouges in a way, as it was done until 60 years ago.

It is important to keep the whetstones flat on the inside of the steel and grind the entire inner surface equally evenly. You absolutely must prevent the apex from not staying straight. Then the gouge may be sharp, but it becomes practically unusable.

Furthermore, you should also take a close look at the anatomy of the fold. It can be different for different types of gouges. But that also applies when using the Tormek tools.

That's nicely made. good idea!