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If the roughing gouge is so curved as to form a full semi-circle, then the screw should apply pressure from the bottom of the gouge.  Also, some sort of simple v-block and a clamp might work.  The perimeter needs to be a semicircle though so when the gouge is twisted there remains support against the USB.  I am more of a kook than maybe you imagine, so take these suggestions with a grain of salt.

I have had some success with taking a 1 inch thick piece of squarely cut hardwood and drilling into it well sized and placed holes for the edges of the gouge to slot into, then removing enough material between the holes to fit the gouge in there.  Essentially, make a wooden donut with grooves on the inside 180 degrees apart, sized to hopefully slide on with absolutely no play.  A set screw can clamp the gouge down.  A drill press is needed to keep the holes perpendicular to the front face of the block--the only outer surface that even needs to be flat and true.  For a gouge nearly 2 inches, maybe radially split wood would work, as it doesn't warp much when wet.  If not that, then endgrain wood, which should not move at all.  The fit of the grooves is important; the gouge should not be able to wobble left and right when tightened down with the screw.  If the gouge is tapered much in thickness, this could be difficult.

Wonderful setup.  Being able to zip across to the finer grit with little or no adjustment is brilliant. 
I do less precise sharpening with a little guesswork, using a SG and SJ combo:  rough grind on the SG, flip the USB and raise the adjustment dial about a turn to compensate for the difference in stone diameter.
This has killed my ability to use the leather honing wheel, which I miss using for the purpose of reviving an old edge before resigning to putting it back to the stones in a jig.
I used the LA-120 shaft for the second stone.  I still have problems with eccentricity from the mating surfaces somewhere.  Teflon tape on the threads helped reduce it a lot.
I cover the drive wheel and not-stainless motor shaft with a cowl made from a round aluminum baking tin--it's not pretty, but is deeper than the honing wheel and extends over the Tormek body some to act as a roof.
I'd like to know what other aftermarket shafts options there are.

Angling the blade across the top of the stone sounds like a good idea.  I have used that technique to speed-sharpen low value knives.  It works like hand honing on a flat stone, but--liberated from the task of pushing the blade forward and back incessantly-- your senses can focus on keeping the angle and rate of diagonal draw across the stone steady.  It's messy near the handle though, so its not something to always. 
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I recently aquired a large billhook on a 36 inch handle, with four inches of recurve; it's pitted with rust.  I was thinking about how to sharpen it, and this angled straddle will probably work wonders.  A 250mm stone just barely fits in there.  A tighter curve would call for smaller radii.  Just using the (substantial) weight of the tool I will brace my hands on the top of the housing and pivot the tool in an arc following the recurve edge at a 20 degree angle from level.