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Although I've owned the Tormek for a long time and use it frequently, I have not kept up on all the latest new jigs and whatnot.  I went looking at this after your post.  Looks very well thought out and useful.  As we all know the Tormek is not known for rapid removal of metal and the grinder is.

Smacks forehead!

It's always such a revelation putting sharp planer blades back on and realizing what you've been missing...not japanese plane polished smooth but damn close.

True but if the universal support is moved to the front of the machine, there's no guarantee that it is now parallel to the top supports.

Jeff,
Yes, I tried that and it helped a bit but both wheels wobble.  I really think it's either the sloppy new nylon washer or I twisted the machine in my effort to free the old shaft.  Like I said, it's not too bad and I'm not tripping on it.
Paul

New stainless shaft came today.  Installed it, one of the new nylon washers was tight, the other one was a bit loose.  Not sure if that is why there's a slight wobble in the system now or maybe I tweaked things during my Herculean effort to free up the old shaft.
It's not too bad though and I finished what I started a few days ago....sharpening my planer blades.

Just an aside here.  I've been using Brian Burn's method of putting on a double bevel on my planer blades for the past 15 years maybe.  Essentially what you're doing is steepening the cutting angle by putting a slight bevel on the front side of the blade.  This allows you to plane 95% of any grain with zero to minimal tearout.  I don't pay any attention to the grain pattern as I feed the lumber into the planer.
Downside is you have to take shallower cuts and you need lots of horsepower in the planer as it requires more effort from the motor.

He didn't think this up but rather rediscovered it way before the current fad/rediscover of it today.  In his booklet he details both his method for plane blades and for planer blades.  The link below just mentions the plane blade method.
Ron Hock wrote about it here  http://hocktools.wordpress.com/2010/08/25/two-better-than-one/

Just thinking off the top of my head.  Is the steel in the blade attracted to a magnet?  If a jig could be positioned above the blade and held to by rare earth magnets you could get around the jig hitting the stone problem.

Mike,
I too, was somewhat taken back from seeing it used in a large production environment.  You would think in a factory that's been doing this for a long time they would have purpose built machines for the final sharpening/honing.

Came across this video of an axe making company that uses a Tormek as part of their manufacturing procedures.  Hopefully this hasn't been posted before.  Tormek usage begins at the 4:30ish mark
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNQbzQCByX4

Thanks for the welcomes...and for the photo comments.  That's what I do for a living so I hope I do it somewhat ok...

Well, I got off both the stone and the shaft but no without a lot of sweat and swearing.  The shaft nearest the stone was very corroded.  The corrosion had formed large very hard bulges within the stone and within the nylon bearing.  The bulge within the bearing is what was causing the squealing and the stoppage.
Ordered a new stainless shaft.
I owe myself a shot of Fernet after all the effort put into pulling off the stone.  I had to clamp the Drive Wheel in my bench to prevent it from spinning, hold down the machine with my foot and twisting and pulling up at the same time on the stone.  Very difficult to get it off.
Paul

Upon closer inspection underneath, there is a protrusion on the Main Shaft, next to the stone that would make it impossible to remove the shaft by pulling it out on the stone side of the machine.

Hello everybody.  New here.  Real name is Paul, I live in San Francisco.

I've had a Tormek since the mid 90's or so (the green Super Grind 2000) and recently it's been squealing and then stopping.  The manual suggests removing the stone and pulling out the shaft using the honing wheel.  Here, Jeff says remove the honing wheel and pull out using the attached stone.
http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=1472.0

Two problems.  One, I can't remove the stone....seems to be frozen on the shaft.  Two, using Jeff's method of first removing the honing wheel doesn't work either because I can't budge the shaft.
Any tricks or tips?  Can I just shoot in some spray lubricant on the shaft hoping it works inside to the bearings and forget about trying to get the shaft off?

http://cargocollective.com/makerunknown