(http://knifegrinders.com.au/Equipment/E_volume_1_.JPG)
(http://knifegrinders.com.au/Equipment/E_volume_2.JPG)
Sharpening speed 1-2 min per knife.
Changeable Angle Guides to grind the edge at 20, 24, 30 or 38 degrees included.
An additional set of 5 dps angle guides is used to thin a worn blade.
Sharpening Technique
Pressing the blade against the angle guide, pull the blade from the handle to the tip with a light downwards pressure to contact the grinding wheel.
(Unlike with a stone wheel, pressure should be low for CBN/diamonds to grind effectively.)
Repeat on the opposite side of the wheel, alternating sides till the edge is apexed, then continue on the fine wheel with the same angle setting.
Learning is quick, I had the 3rd knife sharpened under 2 min.
More photos, detailed description and production drawings on our website http://knifegrinders.com.au/05Equipment_volume.htm (http://knifegrinders.com.au/05Equipment_volume.htm)
We do not sell these attachments.
We share a solution for volume sharpening on Tormek that has been proven to work, and work well.
We take an opportunity to thank Richard Kruger (RickKrung) for his invaluable help through this project, which took us almost 4 months from a vague idea to the working solution.
That is similar to how the local knife shop, has their much larger stone. I think our T2 converted platform, on the new side bar, could do the same from one side of the wheel.
Quote from: wootz on May 30, 2018, 01:19:24 PM
(http://knifegrinders.com.au/Equipment/E_volume_2.JPG)
Sharpening speed 1-2 min per knife.
Changeable Angle Guides to grind the edge at 20, 24, 30 or 38 degrees included.
An additional set of 5 dps angle guides is used to thin a worn blade.
Sharpening Technique
Pressing the blade against the angle guide, pull the blade from the handle to the tip with a light downwards pressure to contact the grinding wheel.
(Unlike with a stone wheel, pressure should be low for CBN/diamonds to grind effectively.)
Repeat on the opposite side of the wheel, alternating sides till the edge is apexed, then continue on the extra-fine wheel with the same angle setting.
Learning is quick, I had the 3rd knife sharpened under 2 min.
More photos and detailed description on our website http://knifegrinders.com.au/05Equipment_volume.htm (http://knifegrinders.com.au/05Equipment_volume.htm)
We do not sell these attachments.
We share a solution for volume sharpening on Tormek, that has proved to work, and work well.
We take an opportunity to thank Richard Kruger (RickKrung) for his invaluable help through this project, which took us almost 4 months from a vague idea to the working solution.
Looks good! (And yeah... Rick's the man for this stuff).
I can't believe I'm asking this, but how does a sharpened knife score on the BESS scale?
man-o-man, you guys are really on the job. you both are a credit to society ! a big thumbs UP.
¡Wow! Once again, I am amazed. Great work; I can hardly wait for future developments......
Ken
It was a pleasure working with Wootz on this project. It did take a while, but a lot of that was lead time with the CNC machine shop that we had make the angle blocks. Some of it was design work up front getting the specs to the shop.
Rick
Its a great idea for anyone doing volume sharpening that needs speed as well as accuracy and repeatability.
It does bring to mind a question about the new Tormek diamond wheels. Do they have abrasive on both sides of the wheel? I've not looked at anything from Tormek about the new wheels and have not heard anyone mention anything about abrasive being on the inside of the wheel.
Without it, it seems to me the two-sided angle guides will not work. Unless one uses only the outside block and pulls the knive through from the front and back, which I wonder how well that could work, requiring clearance from the wheel for the handle and hand, let alone potential differences in grind characteristics given the different directions.
Rick
Great question, Rick.
How about having the outer face of the grinding wheel facing (parallel to) your body and drawing the bevels through from opposite directions? (that would also require only one set of blocks for each angle.
Ken
Quote from: RickKrung on May 30, 2018, 08:04:54 PM
It does bring to mind a question about the new Tormek diamond wheels. Do they have abrasive on both sides of the wheel? I've not looked at anything from Tormek about the new wheels and have not heard anyone mention anything about abrasive being on the inside of the wheel.
Good question. There's a 1 min. video on Instagram...
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bf5fUxEBppb/
... that briefly shows the inside of the wheel, (if you blink you'll miss it... it's right after they show a knife in the Small Knife Jig being sharpened), and it doesn't look like it.
Everything I've seen and read, looks like the outside only. :-\ (But of course the final version could change).
Edit to add: I grabbed a quick screenshot...
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3625.0;attach=2213)
Would be a pity if so, I thought of using them in addition to the Tormek-compatible Tornado CBN wheels we currently use.
After the coarse wheel the rough bevels on the knife scratch the angle guides mercilessly.
First I tried to protect them with the Plasti Dip spray, as suggested by Y-Not, but the rubber layer won't last - you still can see black remnants of it on the guides.
So i resorted to a cloth tape (the white wrap over the angle guides on the photo) - it works, but looks aren't as neat.
Edge sharpness is within 70-90 BESS, shaving. It depends on how well you deburr not rounding the edge, not the sharpening attachment as such.
To avoid clamping the knife, we deburr on a slotted felt wheel run on a half-speed grinder, using a static horizontal platform similar to Herman's, cut to the preset angle. So far I've made 2 of such platforms, for 24 and 30 degrees edge, fixing them on our support for paper wheels (http://knifegrinders.com.au/11Shop_PWsupport.htm) with the help of SK12 linear shaft supports that I bought from Aliexpress as advised by puffin.
All together, this setup allows to sharpen a knife within 2 min from start to finish.
For thinning worn blades volume sharpeners use grit #60-80, while I do it on #200, though maybe eventually will have to buy a Tormek-compatible wheel of that extra-coarse grit if I see that it takes too long on the #200 - the lowest I have at the moment.
just great, I can only say "congratulations" for that great job. :o
Wow, nice thinking. Great idea. Haven't been active here for long time :(
As was mentioned above the "only" problem is when changing direction of knife with the CBN wheel. Would work greatwith the SG/SB/SJ-250 as I see it.
I had long ago almost same thoughts but with the desire of new wheel with 40~45dgrs sharpening angle. I even thought of modifying a SG-250 wheel for the purpose and bending the US for that. But no tools or time for it. That way it would be possible to sharpen on both directions and having a straight bevel. the other benefit would be that the handle is away from the leather wheel.
Wolfy,
Glad to see you post again! I trust your Tormek business is going well.
I really like your bench idea. Is it working well for you?
best,
Ken
Great job!
I think the biggest advantage of this is that it enables blade thinning.
And it can also be used to sharpen the entire bevel of a sashimi knife.
I can only guess at this point, but I think the new diamond wheels will have grit on both sides, at least I hope they do.
Glad to see you back, Wolfy
How is your self-centering knife jig project? I guess you already use a working prototype for yourself.
Quote from: RickKrung on May 30, 2018, 08:04:54 PM
Its a great idea for anyone doing volume sharpening that needs speed as well as accuracy and repeatability.
It does bring to mind a question about the new Tormek diamond wheels. Do they have abrasive on both sides of the wheel? I've not looked at anything from Tormek about the new wheels and have not heard anyone mention anything about abrasive being on the inside of the wheel.
Without it, it seems to me the two-sided angle guides will not work. Unless one uses only the outside block and pulls the knive through from the front and back, which I wonder how well that could work, requiring clearance from the wheel for the handle and hand, let alone potential differences in grind characteristics given the different directions.
Rick
Tormek Diamond Wheels
Tormek has developed three diamond wheels designed for use with the Tormek Water Cooled Sharpening
System. The Tormek Diamond Wheels offer an exceptional durability and the ability to sharpen on the
periphery as well as the sides. When sharpening on the side of the Diamond Wheels, we recommend
using the Tormek Multi Base MB-100 with the appropriate jig developed for your specific tool.
this to me indicates they coated both sides of the wheel !
Quote from: Ken S on May 31, 2018, 01:29:57 AM
I really like your bench idea. Is it working well for you?
Bench is good. Although when I'm out with the Tormek I rely on the Keter Box combination as Tormek stand.
By the way I have modified it and cut the lower boc top so I can take of the wheel and place it there exposed to air and not closed in the box developing algae/ bacteria/ or what it is, on the leather wheel Also letting me easy to take of when need to lift into the car (some 2+kg less).
Besides, I also have a polishing machine in the box too for blade shaping on behalf of the stone space.
On the last order from Tormek I've ordered some CBN wheels and T-2's. Will be interesting to see an test them.
I wonder if it would be possible to adopt the T-2 knife jig to the T-8? i would put it on the machine with an adjustable slider to compensate for the stone wear.
P.s did you get my mail? Sent few months ago?
Quote from: wootz on May 31, 2018, 05:53:07 AM
Glad to see you back, Wolfy
How is your self-centering knife jig project? I guess you already use a working prototype for yourself.
Thanks Wootz. The self-centering knife jig project was Ok till the guy that helped me started to change things without advising me and the final jig was OK but not as I wanted. Though it led for the 2nd gen of development and stopped at the drawing board as I didn't have time for it and the guy is "not so interested" anymore.
I think the 2nd gen is also easier to manufacture but I don't have a partner to get it done now.
Quote from: Grizz on May 31, 2018, 06:22:20 AM
Quote from: RickKrung on May 30, 2018, 08:04:54 PM
Its a great idea for anyone doing volume sharpening that needs speed as well as accuracy and repeatability.
It does bring to mind a question about the new Tormek diamond wheels. Do they have abrasive on both sides of the wheel? I've not looked at anything from Tormek about the new wheels and have not heard anyone mention anything about abrasive being on the inside of the wheel.
Without it, it seems to me the two-sided angle guides will not work. Unless one uses only the outside block and pulls the knive through from the front and back, which I wonder how well that could work, requiring clearance from the wheel for the handle and hand, let alone potential differences in grind characteristics given the different directions.
Rick
Tormek Diamond Wheels
Tormek has developed three diamond wheels designed for use with the Tormek Water Cooled Sharpening
System. The Tormek Diamond Wheels offer an exceptional durability and the ability to sharpen on the
periphery as well as the sides. When sharpening on the side of the Diamond Wheels, we recommend
using the Tormek Multi Base MB-100 with the appropriate jig developed for your specific tool.
this to me indicates they coated both sides of the wheel !
Good morning from Sweden,
The Diamond Wheels have abrasive on the outside of the wheel. Apologies for any misunderstandings.
Kind regards,
Marie - Marketing Manager
While I really like the possibilities with double sided abrasive diamond wheels for rapid knife sharpening, I can see where the extra manufacturing costs involved would be prohibitive for the much smaller customerbase of professional knife sharpeners.
Also, if we have to switch the angle blocks (sharpening knives with different bevel angles), I don't see where using two sides would offer any significant speed advantage. Using either double sided blocks or any of the kenjig type systems, the real speed advantage is obtained with using a standard bevel angle.
I think the regular Tormek knife jigs can be very fast with standardization and even faster with a loader/helper.
I can see the blocks being very fast if eash of the two bevels is loaded from opposite sides.
Ken
Quote from: WolfY on May 31, 2018, 06:35:33 AM
Quote from: wootz on May 31, 2018, 05:53:07 AM
Glad to see you back, Wolfy
How is your self-centering knife jig project? I guess you already use a working prototype for yourself.
Thanks Wootz. The self-centering knife jig project was Ok till the guy that helped me started to change things without advising me and the final jig was OK but not as I wanted. Though it led for the 2nd gen of development and stopped at the drawing board as I didn't have time for it and the guy is "not so interested" anymore.
I think the 2nd gen is also easier to manufacture but I don't have a partner to get it done now.
Stop the press!
You've made a self-centering knife jig?
More info?
Please?
If you're looking to make money from it, and can't share, I understand, but either way, don't keep it to yourself. It's very much needed.Edit: Ah... I found in another thread you are looking to manufacture this, so probably can't share... hopefully it will come back to the top of your to-do list. ;)
Quote from: wootz on May 30, 2018, 09:09:31 PM
Edge sharpness is under 200 BESS, arm-shaving. It depends on how well you deburr not rounding the edge.
To avoid clamping the knife, we deburr on a slotted paper wheel run on a half-speed grinder, using a static horizontal platform similar to Herman's, cut to the preset angle. So far I've made 2 of such platforms, for 24 and 30 degrees edge, fixing them on our support for paper wheels (http://knifegrinders.com.au/11Shop_PWsupport.htm) with the help of SK12 linear shaft supports that I bought from Aliexpress as advised by puffin.
Thanks for the info.
Almost missed it after you mentioned self-centering knife jig... :D
Quote from: cbwx34 on May 31, 2018, 02:20:26 PM
Stop the press!
You've made a self-centering knife jig?
More info?
Please?
If you're looking to make money from it, and can't share, I understand, but either way, don't keep it to yourself. It's very much needed.
Edit: Ah... I found in another thread you are looking to manufacture this, so probably can't share... hopefully it will come back to the top of your to-do list. ;)
OK OK. I'll look for someone to help me with the new prototype. I'm pretty much excited too to make it real. :)
Quote from: WolfY on May 31, 2018, 08:29:31 PM
OK OK. I'll look for someone to help me with the new prototype. I'm pretty much excited too to make it real. :)
Would be awesome!!! Thanks!!!👍👍👍👍👍
Photos of the honing station we use in volume sharpening.
Honing and deburring is done at 1450 RPM on a slotted rock-hard felt wheel and slotted paper wheel using angle-guides of Herman's type.
(http://knifegrinders.com.au/Equipment/E_volume_honing.JPG)
(http://knifegrinders.com.au/Equipment/E_volume_felt_wheel.JPG)
(http://knifegrinders.com.au/Equipment/E_volume_paper_wheel.JPG)
Ever consider flipping the motor around on its base?
(Puts the switch back in the front, and the power cord in the back).
Pretty easy mod on most grinders.
Reversing the direction of rotation can be done by switching a couple of wires also. Might be easier than turning the motor within the case. There are videos out there that show how to do it.
Check under the plate which covers the wires. Manufacturers sometimes place wiring diagrams with reversing instructions there.
Ken
Quote from: RickKrung on July 06, 2018, 04:47:09 PM
Reversing the direction of rotation can be done by switching a couple of wires also. Might be easier than turning the motor within the case. There are videos out there that show how to do it.
I don't know which is easier... but I've done several "flipping the motor on the base", and it's never been more than a couple of bolts...
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3625.0;attach=2397)
... no video required. ;)
But, always good to have options. :)
Quote from: cbwx34 on July 06, 2018, 03:00:17 PM
Ever consider flipping the motor around on its base?
(Puts the switch back in the front, and the power cord in the back).
Pretty easy mod on most grinders.
CB,
I did not "get it" what you meant. I thought you meant taking the housing apart and turning the motor windings/shafts around inside the motor housing.
But... what you meant, I believe, is to unscrew the bench mounting base from the motor housing and turning the latter around over the base. Doh!
I just did that. Takes me a while sometimes. Thanks.
Rick
Quote from: RickKrung on October 27, 2018, 07:01:43 AM
Quote from: cbwx34 on July 06, 2018, 03:00:17 PM
Ever consider flipping the motor around on its base?
(Puts the switch back in the front, and the power cord in the back).
Pretty easy mod on most grinders.
CB,
I did not "get it" what you meant. I thought you meant taking the housing apart and turning the motor windings/shafts around inside the motor housing.
But... what you meant, I believe, is to unscrew the bench mounting base from the motor housing and turning the latter around over the base. Doh!
I just did that. Takes me a while sometimes. Thanks.
Rick
Can't believe you didn't understand it from my "detailed" explanation! ;) (My bad for not providing more info... should have added a picture or something... it's how I learned about it). But glad you figured it out. :)