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Topics - Petrovich

#1
I've had this machine for a couple of months now.  I bought it to sharpen knives and scissors.

I have to say it is an outstanding machine for this purpose.  There's a bit of a learning curve.  Knives come in so many shapes and sizes it is experience that does the trick.  Fortunatly, I have a big box full of knives I have accumulated over the years that I bought, grew disappointed with, and eventually put away because I could never sharpen them the way I wanted to.

A lot of people, myself included, think sharpening knives is some kind of big mystery.  Well, it isn't the simplest thing to understand, but it's not brain surgery either.

My revelation came when I realized that my inability to adequately sharpen a knife wasn't necessarily the result of incompetence.  In a nutshell it's inadequate equipment.

I have discovered that even the best knives you can buy are 'diamonds in the rough'.  They are mass produced and even though they are well thought-out tools, they suffer from a lack of the 'human touch'.  They aren't customized...so to speak.

The factory edge on any knife must be customized if it is to reach its full potential.  This is precisely where the tormek comes in.

It's all in the bevel.

Factory bevels are all wrong.  First of all, they are mass produced.  Secondly, they are way to steep.

It's all in the bevel.

On a simple blade, I've noticed all that's needed is to decrease the angle of the bevel.

It's all in the bevel.

On larger, thicker and more complicated blades a bit more thought goes into it.  I will actually regrind two bevels.  A shallow bevel that doesn't take it to a keen edge, then a steeper bevel for the finish.

Did I mention it's all in the bevel?

Second big thing is the stone.  That stone has to have the flattest face possible.  Sharpening knives lends itself to this, however; I pay particular attention to wearing the stone evenly.

Third big thing....the face of the stone has to be smooth as glass.  It cuts much slower this way, but the control is much enhanced and the bevel is smooth and shiny.  My stone face is so smooth it actually puts a polished edge on the knife.

To get this fine of a stone face you have to go a step further than the dressing stone that comes with the machine.  Dress the stone with the fine side as instructed.  However, kick it up a knotch and dress it further with a fine diamond stone.  This results in a stone face that is as smooth as glass.

Finally, I intend to buy another stone for my machine and a quick take-off knob like what's on the leather wheel.  I'll use two different stones on my machine.  The fine one I have now, and a courser one for faster cutting.

Jeff
#2
General Tormek Questions / light
June 08, 2006, 03:38:25 PM
I'm only making this a new thread so that it will get 'bumped' up where it gets noticed.

I've had my machine for several days now.  So far I can only think of one improvement.

I bought a little cheapie, battery powered, gooseneck light.  It's just a single led on the end of a flexible shaft.  It clamps anywhere and I can point the beam right at the work.

That would make a nice accessory, or maybe even a replaceable part of the machine.
#3
General Tormek Questions / Straight razors
June 03, 2006, 04:00:12 AM
Hi there...newbie on board.

I ordered my new machine today from sharptools usa.

I intend to use my machine mainly for knives and household/garden/garage tools.

I enjoy shaving with a straight razor now and then.  There is no smoother shave I'm telling you.  Sometimes I can get my wife to give me a shave 'barber style'.

I have a small fortune wrapped up in razors.  They stay sharp if you strop them with each use, but in time they get a bit dull and then it's not a pleasure to use them anymore.  My solution was to buy a new razor.  Eventually, I did find a source to sharpen them but it's a pain.  I've tried hand hones and they don't work either.

Watching the video it appears that the machine might to a good job.  Since my razors all have a straight blade..ie no curve to the edge; I think the general purpose jig will work.

The one issue I have is the concave grind of the razors.  Straight razors have a super hollow grind starting with a relatively wide spine and tapering to a very thin edge.

Has anyone tried this?  I suspect the two main issues are going to be fitting the blade into the jig, and determining proper cutting angle which will be significantly less than 40 degrees.

I do recall somewhere that the grinding angle is nearly flat.  Stropping is done completely flat.

Also...will the 1000 grit of the wheel be fine enough?