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Hi,

I'm not sure I got it right but from what I can see in the video, One jaw (the one with the threaded cylinder) is fixed relative to the shaft of the jig, while the other (the "shorter" one) moves. so it would seem that it negates the advantage of the KJ over the KVM, namely to have symmetrical clamping. But maybe I'm wrong.
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Pretty sure you're right, which is why (paraphrasing) "centering doesn't matter" is repeated.  Basically, just remaking an SVM jig from KJ parts.

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Problems with the SVM-45  KJ-45
1.      It's not adjustable, you can't make micro adjustments easily, rendering the wood block technique less useful.
2.   Tool rest handle is too small, long blades pull the knife towards you.
3.   Occasionally you inadvertently use the "short stop" without realizing.
4.   The self-centering aspect is generally solving a low priority problem – we've never-ever had a customer complain about it.
5.   Plastic shaft is not as sturdy as it needs to be.
6.   Smaller torque screw is hard to get tight.

Problems with the KJ-45  SVM-45
1.   Shaft is slightly too short to accommodate very short blades without adjusting tool rest height.
2.   Plastic tool-rest wears out, we wrap electrical tape around the treads to establish tension... after three years it is now stripped.
3.   Not "centered" – though we have not found this to be a real problem.
4.   It's no longer being produced (boo!)
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I think you had this mislabeled?

I just use my finger to smear it.

The difference is I try to embed it into the leather a bit.

For quite some time now, I just occasionally  "charge" my honing wheel with paste, rubbing it in with a toothbrush.  Works for several sessions (depending on volume of course.)

My teeth look great too.... 

A question arises. Why do the Victory brand fish filleting knives use a softer steel? Is it to make sharpening on-the-go easier? Do they sacrifice hardness so they can get improved ease of sharpening, improved ability to stay sharp, improved ability to resist staining?

I'm gonna go with co$t.

I did read your post and replied to you with thanks. I have just re-done some of them just using and OLD/WORN [205mm] sg 250 for the rough cut and then used a newer sg250 [248mm] for the smooth cut. WOW! So much better and easier! So thank you again, cbwx34, Ken S, and Sir Amwell for all the help and advice.
Regards
Dan

Thanks... I was actually just razzin' Ken. 

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I did an online srarch on how hard are Victory knives:
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You could have just read my post.     

(But at least we agreed.)   

Hi, I sharpen ALOT of 'VICTORY' brand fish filleting knives made in New Zealand. Mostly with thin 25cm blades. I was having fair results with the standard SG wheel, however since changing over to CBN wheels I am having trouble raising a bur. The steel is quite hard, or so it seems. Does anybody have any thoughts on maybe changing my technique or any other suggestions? The new CBN wheels work great on all the other knives I do for people. I am far from being an expert or a beginner,[ been sharpening for nearly 3 years now] so my technique is pretty well sorted.
 Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Dan, Norfolk Island, South Pacific

I think it may be the opposite of "quite hard"... their Catalogue says "The stainless steel blade hardness is 54-55 HRC".  CBN wheels reportedly don't work well on softer steels.  For example:

Limited Application: While excellent for hard materials, CBN may not be the best choice for softer materials, where conventional abrasives might suffice.

(It's also mentioned on Rich Colvin's website.)

I decided to get T-8 black.

Please recommend online store (or a local store around Raleigh NC), where I should order it. I know the price is everywhere the same, but I hope you have preferred stores where maybe I can get better support, etc. I looked at Amazon and there are two sellers: Hartville hardware and Yellowhammer tool works.
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It looks like you have a local Woodcraft store and another one called Rockler... you might check there.

Hi all. New here and to the Tormek world. I'm sore these types of questions have been asked before but I was hoping for some direct advice.

Today I picked up a T-3 with some nice accessories for a good deal. Could easily make money selling it. I don't turn and it came with a TNT-808 turning kit which I'll likely sell.

What's the difference between this and a T-4 or T-8?  Wheels smaller? 

Wondering if I should invest in this T-3 or hold out for a different model.

I'd like to use this mainly for planer blade and chisels. Was hoping to located a cheap rough shaping wheel to remove defects/material. Heard about sourcing from China made sharpeners.

Thanks! 

If you can sell the T-3 for a profit, and invest that money into a T-4 or T-8, that is the route I would take.  The T-3 had issues with the "plastic" casing, for example, it was from a Tormek rep that...

T-3 had a plastic housing witch was not as stable (compared to the T-4) with its vertical and horizontal sleeves.

... the result being that the T-4 is advertised as "Precision improved 300%".

There's also an issue with heat and the casing, so the 30 min. "duty cycle" applies to the T-3, which was eliminated with the T-4's zinc casing.

Sizewise, the T-3 and T-4 are the same, the main (and important) difference is the change in casing.  The T-8 is a larger model.

I'd only keep the T-3 if you only plan on using it for light work.

p.s.  I don't think registering your Tormek gives you access to the manual yet, (the link was broken in the website update), but you can access it HERE

... A working app for the iPhone would be great!!!

-DON-

The Calcapp Calculators work on the iPhone. 

I just bought this knife: https://bernalcutlery.com/products/copy-of-new-vintage-canadian-15cm-6-chef-carbon-rosewood-50s

It's 14.5" long. Will the normal knife jig work or do I need the bigger one?

The length doesn't matter... it's whether or not the knife flexes.

TormekCalc is an amazingly detailed and excellent app, but I find it way more than I need and unless one spends the time to really figure out what is going on, way more difficult to use than I care to go through. 

There are other calculators where it is easier to find, although I could not in CB's Calcapp.  I use his older and possibly no longer available "Go Calc" app that shows USB to Wheel right on the main screen. 

Maybe CB can post an image of where to find it in an angle calculator that is much easier to use, such as Calcapp. 

Rick

USB to Wheel is present on every relevant calculator page in Calcapp, for example...

You cannot view this attachment.

... the only difference from GoCalc is you first pick the calculator you want to use from the main menu.  The picture shows the "2 in 1 Calculator"... probably the one used the most.

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but I don't see the 'ease of use' for this distance preprogrammed into TormekCalc, am I missing this somewhere or are you using different software?
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"T-USB" is the measurement directly to the wheel in TormekCalc (in the column under the wheel size)...


If you want to know what the arrows are for, see this post. 

[Edit:]

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Working with the Tormek has been an important part of my life since 2009. I think I could contnue if I switch to a sitting position. Your thoughts and suggestions will be most appreciated.

Take a look at some of Knifegrinders videos... he had his Tormek sitting on what I think he said was a motorcycle maintenance stand or something like that, and sat behind it on a stool.  There's an example in this video...

Edit:  Found where he described it:  Stand for Tormek of a dirt bike stand

Yes - I came to that conclusion. If you look at the Tormek product description it is listed on the regular T8 but not on the Black. No big deal really.

Probably want users to use the insert with the cutouts to store everything.