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#1
General Tormek Questions / Re: Goniostat for the Tormek
Last post by Rimu - Today at 09:38:52 AM
Very cool idea. I look forward to watching it develop.
Would some of this not benefit from using the side of the wheel for a completely flat grind?
#2
Baz is great. Love his vids. He is across town from me.

This surprises me as well. Nice to know though. Thinking about it, it will depend on the ceramic and its hardness. No doubt like steel, they will vary in hardness depending on composition.
#3
Knife Sharpening / ceramic knives with the S G
Last post by Ken S - Today at 04:55:10 AM
#4
Knife Sharpening / Re: New angle jig KS-123
Last post by tcsharpen - Today at 03:58:11 AM
Quote from: John_B on Yesterday at 08:23:49 PMGreat to hear. I have 2 support bars so for knives I will be setting one for honing and one for sharpening. I will use my jig for setting the projection distance on each knife. Going this the new KS-123 won't be used too much unless someone wants a different angle.

I also have two USB, the one on the honing side in a MB-102.  When switching knives, I set the projection, then I've just been setting up both sides with the KS-123 since it is so quick, then on to sharpening.  So far with the knives I've been doing I've not been able to maintain the same projection between knives with the KJ-45.
#5
Let me echo the sentiments of the consensus of the posters, practice makes perfect. I am relatively new to the Tormek but it was not long before I was getting good results but it did take a while to get my eye in. As with anything the experts make it look deceptively easy, and indeed it is but it does require some practice observation and as Ken says discipline.   
#6
Quote from: Ken S on Yesterday at 02:42:36 PMJohn, I have not read anything from Tormek cautioning agaiinst using ACC

You are correct. From Tormek's description "Anti-corrosion concentrate won't harm your regular grindstones if you have it in the water, so you can keep treated water if you want to switch between a diamond grinding wheel and a grindstone, and then back again."

Having said that I do recall where one user noted that the dried compound did tend to clog the wheels but it can be easily remedied.
#7
Knife Sharpening / Re: New angle jig KS-123
Last post by John_B - Yesterday at 08:23:49 PM
Quote from: tcsharpen on May 24, 2024, 03:29:56 AMMy KS-123 arrived today. I first set up to sharpen a kitchen knife using the KJ-45 jig with the KS-123. After getting it all adjusted, I then measured the projection and entered the values into Calcapp which said the USB height should be 88.6mm. Measuring this after the angle setter was used yielded 88.7mm.  I'd say this is well within specs of my inexpensive digital caliper used to take the measurement.

Even the first setup was quick after having watched the Tormek video.

Great to hear. I have 2 support bars so for knives I will be setting one for honing and one for sharpening. I will use my jig for setting the projection distance on each knife. Going this the new KS-123 won't be used too much unless someone wants a different angle.

I then used the angle setter to set the honing angle to 1 degree greater. Simple, with great results.
#8
General Tormek Questions / Re: SVX-150 or SVD-110
Last post by Swemek - Yesterday at 06:46:25 PM
Quote from: tgbto on Yesterday at 03:31:00 PM
Quote from: Ken S on Yesterday at 03:10:24 PMI am confused by "concave edges". If you mean cambering edges on plane irons (grinding back the outer edges to eliminate "plane tracks"), the SE77 is the ideal choice, as the amount of camber can be carefully controlled. Before we had the SE-77, we used the SE76 and leaned on the corners. This produced cambered edges which, if not exact, were usually close enough.
Thanks Tgbto!
Yes I should have used the term hollow grind, or is it "ground" (?), also a confusing term. Is it the same thing?
The OP really is talking about a concave edge as in ground with a wheel instead of a plate (slightly convex edge) or a belt (more pronounced convexity depending on pressure and belt slack) :

Quote from: Swemek on Yesterday at 11:13:32 AMWhat i don't know is how well or bad planar blades is with a concave bevel? I'm currently using my works sharp belt sander for dito, which gives me a convex edge and that works great.

In theory, convex blades have a tendency to skim/pull out, concave blades will dig in. I don't think you'll notice much of a difference in practice because the convexity will not be that pronounced over the thickness of the blade.


Thank you, Ken. Yes that might be the case - me ending up with all the jigs one could get. But anything other than knifes I just sharpen for my self only and the results from the Work Sharp belt sander is absolutely good enough for my use. With Blade Grinding Attachment I get acceptable results on scissors without any jigs, so I thought I could apply the same technique on Tormnek.

But it's so nice to get rid of the noise and the metal dust from WS. Using the Tormek is calming and meditative
#9
General Tormek Questions / Re: SVX-150 or SVD-110
Last post by Ken S - Yesterday at 04:22:25 PM
Good point, TGB.

I remember "concave" or "hollow ground" edges from the early 1970s. They were quite the rage with woodworkers. Once the initial edge was ground, final sharpening and several resharpenings required only sharpening the apex and the very back of the bevel. This was quite a saving in sharpening time and labor.This predated the Tormek.

My 1972 vintage six inch Craftsman dry grinder is typical of grinders of that era. The hollow grind is easy to see and easier to see as the wheel wore down.
The larger ten inch (250mm) diameter Tormek wheels technically also produced a hollow grind, although the larger diameter made the very small hollow almost invisible. Also, the cool running water grind of the Tormek made the entire process possible under power.

In my opinion, and some will think differently, the concern about concave or hollow grinding is a leftover from the past.

Ken
#10
Knife Sharpening / Re: Simple Platform Jig
Last post by Ken S - Yesterday at 04:03:59 PM
Ever since the first days of the forum exploration of the small platform jigs, I have never felt that we fully explored the possibilities of this versatile jig. I have also felt that Tormek never showed much interest in smaller platforms. I find this especially sad since they hold the patent to the Torlock and the present design would give them a leg up with the CAD/CAM work.

3D printing presents multiple opportunities, especially if done in "the home shop". From my own limited 3D printing knowledge with my grandson's printer:

I can see that a simple washer/spacer project would be easy to design and print. Make the initial one like the spacer on the shaft between the machine and the grinding wheel. 1/8" (3mm) is thick enough and won't require lengthy printing times. The main function of this is to determine the exact diameter fit of the bore, approximately 12mm). Once this is determined, this number can be appliedto any number of designs.

Then design the bottom part of the jig. This should include a hole to be tapped 6M thread, the standard Tormek size.

Once the bottom is designed, the upper portion (s) can be designed for the intended purposes. This could be either a simple flat platform or custom platforms designed for particular tools (metal lathe tools come to mind).

Possible variations are only limited byour imagination.

Ken