I was messing with jvh's new TormekCalc version, and thought that "BatchCalc" could be used as a quicker way to set the USB height. (Still thinking about the alternative to setting the Projection with the new jig ala Kenjig, especially for commercial sharpeners). My thought was this...
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=5018.0;attach=6502)
- Measure and set the USB based on the lowest Projection Distance (PD) you're likely to use. (yellow markings)
- Place a clamp above the Microadjust, so it's sitting right on the top of it.
- Enter BatchCalc, which tells you the number of turns to change the Microadjust, based on a new PD. You can set this in seconds. But don't move the clamp. (green markings). You could make a cheat sheet as an alternative. Since you started at the lowest position, you'll always be going up.
- If/when you need to set the USB for a new PD, just spin it back down to the clamp, then make the new adjustment.
Not much different than adjusting the Projection Distance? I tried it out, seemed pretty simple and quick. Measure once, you're good for the session.
Never would have guessed I would end up with so many uses for box full of binder clips I saved for decades for some reason! Nice!
After trying this a bit more, I found an alternative to using the clip... I just let the calculator itself keep track. So for example:
- I start the first knife with a PD of 135, then the next at 141...
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=5018.0;attach=6504)
- ...so I put 141 in the 2nd box and adjust the USB, but then I put 141 back in the first box. This tells me the current setting of the USB at a glance, since both boxes now match...
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=5018.0;attach=6506)
- Sharpen that knife, and on to the next change at 137...
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=5018.0;attach=6508)
- ... then put 137 in the first box, and so on...
This lets me easily keep track of where the USB is. Makes sense if you actually try it. ;) Either option is workable, the first keeps you from getting lost (if that makes sense), but the second avoids having to "reset" the USB to the lower setting, so it's even quicker. Of course you'd still group your knives if possible, etc.
Anyway, just thought I'd share the alternative.
Edit: My one thought with Method 2 is, if there's an error, or an accumulation of change over time, it would affect all the results. Method 1 "resets" the bar, reducing this.
Hello cb,
good thinking... :)
I'll just add a few comments:
- You don't have to keep flipping values, but you can use also other section for knife 3 to 6 to continue.
- If you are in doubt about where the USB is, you can always measure it with a caliper as the height is also calculated.
- Whether it is advantageous to set the height in one direction (from lowest projection distance ) is a question for everyone. When using a single stone, probably yes, but when grinding on multiple wheels, it depends on their diameters whether the USB goes down or up. I number each blade so I don't get confused, because I progress from blade number 1 to the last blade, then switch wheel and progress again from blade number 1 etc.
- If I need to adjust the height by more than 15 mm (10 turns of the nut), I use a 15 mm spacer to quickly adjust 10 turns without counting, then adjust the rest.
- In my experience, setting the wrong height can only happen by human error, otherwise there is no accumulation of errors over time. Setting by turning Tormek nut together with diffferent wheel diameter compensation is IMHO incredibly accurate. The first/default height setting may seem to be a weak point, but a slight deviation here does not affect the consistency of the other steps.
jvh
Quote from: jvh on May 25, 2022, 01:27:18 AM
Hello cb,
good thinking... :)
I'll just add a few comments:
- You don't have to keep flipping values, but you can use also other section for knife 3 to 6 to continue.
- If you are in doubt about where the USB is, you can always measure it with a caliper as the height is also calculated.
- Whether it is advantageous to set the height in one direction (from lowest projection distance ) is a question for everyone. When using a single stone, probably yes, but when grinding on multiple wheels, it depends on their diameters whether the USB goes down or up. I number each blade so I don't get confused, because I progress from blade number 1 to the last blade, then switch wheel and progress again from blade number 1 etc.
- If I need to adjust the height by more than 15 mm (10 turns of the nut), I use a 15 mm spacer to quickly adjust 10 turns without counting, then adjust the rest.
- In my experience, setting the wrong height can only happen by human error, otherwise there is no accumulation of errors over time. Setting by turning Tormek nut together with diffferent wheel diameter compensation is IMHO incredibly accurate. The first/default height setting may seem to be a weak point, but a slight deviation here does not affect the consistency of the other steps.
jvh
Thanks for the input.
My goal being "A Quicker Way..." is why I kept it to just a couple of sections with minimum input. Probably for use on one machine at a farmer's market for example.
You're also right that there doesn't seem to be any "accumulation of error" over time. I'm impressed by how accurate it will stay, checking after over a dozen adjustments. A periodic check would insure this.
Thanks!