Messages

  I was given a Stanley No.40 scrub plane in fairly good condition except for the iron. I came up with many ideas to create the radius required but went with a simple solution. The SVD-110 and a fine point sharpie. Takes a little freehand but the resulting radiused cutting was a joy to scrub a rough-cut plank. I was foolish and overlooked this gem of a plane for general handiwork so after flattening the back and establishing the radius point, I carefully drew the centerline of the iron from behind the radius to the bevel edge, then drew from the radius to the corners or the projected corners depending on the previous shaping. Depending on how well you see the layout lines add enough to maintain a perpendicular line to the face of the wheel. With the SVD-110 and the radii, the bevel can be shaped & sharpened and the layout can keep a nice smooth radiused edge as long as the radius is lined up perpendicular. Setup on the honing wheel and polish but keep in mind its purpose as there are no fine adjustments on this plane. I went with about 25 degrees as I'm mostly working with softwoods. I was using mine for an architectural hand-hewn look on wood so my final honing was over-done.
   The scrub plane is unique, even with the frog back as far as possible and a slight radius on my No. 4 1/2 smoothing plane it can't get close to the controlled stock removal of the ugly duckling scrub, wish I learned that years ago but no one I knew even liked them.

 After working on a different project and completing it I got to focus on this, I don't have a milling machine but I have a Number 10 Dumore Die grinder. Sharpie layout, a few drill holes to remove some bulk and lubricant for a 1/2 inch burr and some elbow grease. One modification not shown is this T8 can run off a foot switch when needed.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hbi1lyc33r3h5k6/DBS22%20Mod.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hrxd6le8zd8rkeq/20200619_110055.jpg?dl=0
If this works, it's a pic of my mounted wheel, I tried really hard to get it at 148MB to load on the forum but dropbox might work. I have 3 SG wheels, 1 barely used, 1 worn but modified for large radii on a concave spoke shave and 1 worn down for drill bits work. I think I made an affordable choice, the 3x wheel + my lathe work adapter gives me a roughing grind when needed, the SG can give a good enough finish and the wheel diameters close enough. Big thanks to Ken

  I have been using my T8 with the DBS-22 and other miscellaneous sharpening on tools. I use the standard wheel and was looking into the SB or diamond wheels when I saw Ken S and another had experience with the Norton 3x. I had one for a different grinder so it wasn't hard to go that direction. Mounting it was an in house solution with my Taig micro lathe and some scavenged ABS and bronze bushings to mate with the 12mm shaft since the 2" O.D. x 1/2" I.D. would only get so far.  The Norton3x certainly leaves a coarser finish but my quest for a bit more aggressive grind without drawing temper makes the possibility of lathe bit grinding & reshaping more practical.

 I had a experience on shaping and sharpening a convex curved surface, it may help....or not. I had a Stanley No. 40 plane using a 3 inch radius for the cutting edge. Since the previous sharpening distorted the geometry I reverted to my roots and with a fine sharpie laid out radial lines to maintain perpendicularity to the grinding surface and that allowed me to free-hand the iron and recreate a smooth arc using the SVD-110. Even though a french curve is not created the same way the principle still applies. 

au contraire Gord, I've not given up yet on trying to use the Viel S-5 IF it's practical but asking the group did solicit great responses as yours was very enlightening. I do find some grinding operations on the Tormek tedious and inefficient but like a swiss army knife the tormek does alot, just not all great. I did burn my BGM-100 idea on a felt/paper wheel machine ala Wootz and his great research. Sorry all for the late reply but as with life, I've been buried and some things fall to the back....way back burner.

  Thanks for the reply, I'll be looking at my inbox. I have a motor with a bad start capacitor so it's a manual start BUT I choose the direction it goes!

  Hey there all, I shaped and sharpened some gouges on my T8. The rouging in was done on a borrowed belt sander attachment on a bench grinder, it used a odd set-up but had the SVD-180 clamp. That really helped out on set-up, grind on belt sander, go to stone and with multiple tools and with my SVD-185 in rotation, sped up the process. Has anyone successfully set up a BGM-100 on a belt sander? I run a Veil S-5, 1x42 and I just don't have the room for yet another machine, I'd rather make this work. I've already looked at the .pdf on the BGM, all the info is based on wheels, maybe use the TTS-100 and reverse engineer the geometry?

best regards, Kevin