Quote from: stevebot on January 05, 2016, 11:53:07 PM
For a look at another sharpener's solution to this problem, see
http://amktactical.com/epages/3c926a50-9aba-43a5-9571-098ee03f1288.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Shops/3c926a50-9aba-43a5-9571-098ee03f1288/Products/24
Watch the video from about 1:30.
Thanks for that, Steve. Have you guys watched it?
Recently I got a few knives which to bevel properly I couldn't do without shims, so I watched that video, and applied their approach to SVM-45.
Shim is placed on the bottom jaw, i.e. between the static part of the clamp and the blade.
Maths for Tormek SVM-45 are as follows.
Spacing from the centreline of the handle to the bottom of the knife clamp (the static part of the clamp) is 1.5mm.
Ideal for 3mm blades, but well acceptable to 2.5-3.5mm thick as well.
For knives outside this range, shims can be used. I use blades from a Feeler Gauge with 1cm wide blades as shims.
Measure thickness of the knife at the clamping spot, and divide by 2 - you get spacing to the centreline of the knife.
Difference between 1.5mm and halved knife thickness is filled with a shim.
Example 1
Knife thickness 1.7mm, divided by 2 = 0.85mm.
1.5mm - 0.85mm = 0.65mm shim.
Obviously, for knives thicker than 3mm you should not put shims in the standard SVM-45 - for them I use a second jig with 1mm filed off the static clamp (described earlier in this topic).
Spacing from the centreline of the handle to the bottom of this jig is 2.5mm.
Example 2
Knife thickness 4.6mm, divided by 2 = 2.3mm.
2.5mm - 2.3mm = 0.2mm shim.
These calculations have been proved practically.
Hope this will be useful to you where a perfectly symmetrical bevel is required.