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Unless I'm missing something I don't think it's possible to thin knives on the top of a Tormek grinding wheel : you would hollow grind it and would not be able to grind at a low enough angle if the knife is in a jig. The jig would bite into the stone.
Theoretically you could use the side of a diamond or CBN wheel but I think it would be extremely difficult, either free hand or using the MB 100(?), this would require a knife jig to hold the knife and it would still catch on the stone.
Someone else may be more enlightened than me and suggest a way to do it.
I just can't see how a Tormek can be used to thin knives.
Once I tried to flat grind a scandi knife on the side of a diamond wheel free hand. It was a disaster!

Hmmmm. I don't understand the glove concept at all. Using a Tormek to sharpen stuff is slow, relatively risk free if you have half a brain and a modicum of common sense. Things don't fly off in an uncontrolled way.
Gloves will restrict your work assessment. Unless the gloves are incredibly thin allowing for tactile assessments they will hamper your work. If they are that thin they will offer no protection from sharp edges.
To illustrate this I give the following example.
I sharpened some knives for a customer and he then complained that the knives were too sharp and he and his family cut themselves on the newly sharpened knives.
That is user error, not my fault for producing the desired result.
As a sharpener you are dealing with sharp edges. Learn to treat them in the correct way and you will not cut yourself.
Wearing gloves will only add risk in my opinion, thinking you are safe and so ignoring basic safety. Just my opinion.

This has been covered I think a few times but I don't have the savvy to link you to relevant posts. Someone will I'm sure.
Personally I have overcome this problem in a couple of ways.
Firstly, ALTERNATE.
By this I mean flip the blade over at the end of each pass rather than focusing on one side till you reach a burr. Eventually you will reach a burr by flipping ( though it seems counterintuitive) and it won't take real time any longer. By doing this you are negating the overgrind in the middle of the blade near the heel.
Secondly, as advocated by Wootz and others, grind the first heel section of the blade up to 2 inches or so, pivot up and start again at the heel and work forwards.
Personally the first method works well and in my experience I've never had problems with smiles (as I call them) when adopting this approach.
Other than that, don't overgrind. Only enough to produce the burr then concentrate on areas of the edge that haven't. Then a full pass to even things out.
I'm sure that others on the forum will give further advice soon.

" or buy 10 knife jigs like you say".....
I'm sure you will understand the following and I'm only explaining what I do.
Having 10 of the old svm knife jigs allows you to set each knife to a set projection so that you only need to set the usb once to obtain a given angle.
Grind all knives.
Now,keeping knives in jigs, remove the grinding wheel and set your honing angle on the leather wheel. It will be the same for each knife.
Hone.
So for a batch of 10 knives you've only had to remove the grinding wheel once. You've only had to adjust usb once for grinding.
If you were to use your independent honing station then you haven't removed the wheel even once. May be you would have to lower the water trough at the end though!
Seriously though I take your point that the Tormek does have limitations for knives, probably because of its original design to sharpen mostly woodworking tools.
But then knife sharpening is one of those things. To do it properly and with pride takes some patience, practice and fiddle faddle.
Unless of course you just use belt grinders to speed everything up.

Also I would not advocate you buying multiple kj45 jigs.
The old style adjustable svm jigs are much more suited to doing a batch of knives at a set projection.
Compared, the kj45s have only a tiny amount of adjustment available.
But let's not go down that route again!

Hi Dan. Ken is giving good advice. When I am doing a batch of knives I put them all at the same projection on my jigs for a given angle set up on grinding wheel on the T8. Set all those knives ready for honing. Then remove grind wheel and set up for honing on leather wheel with a FVB. Or your chosen honing method. The removal of the grinding wheel becomes less of an issue.
You will need more jigs though. I have 10 of the old svm45 which makes it easy for volume sharpening and with those old adjustable jigs makes it easy to set them all to a predetermined projection measurement.
If you are just occasional sharpening, what is the issue with removing the grinding wheel to enable you to hone?
Am I missing something with your problem?
You already seem to have solved the problem with your independent honing set up.

Hi Dan. I understand your frustrations with removing grinding wheel to hone knives at a controlled angle using a FVB. Your solution using your slow grinder with a leather wheel is good.
When sharpening a lot of knives where some speed and efficiency is required but accuracy is also required, there are other ways.
I rarely use the FVB with leather honing wheel/felt wheel these days.
I set the edge on the T8 at grit 400 or 1000 then remove knife from jig and hone on a WSKO at lowest speed with Tormek honing compound. Usually at +2 degrees and then exact, compensating for the taper of the knife.
A quick hone on a hanging leather strop then gives 90-110 Bess for most mainstream knives, surely sharp enough for my knife abusing customers?
However, for higher end knives and super hard steels ( those tending to a negative burr) I definitely use the FVB for very precise honing. When I am taking the time to do this precisely, removing the grinding wheel to achieve this is no big deal for me.
Or, get another T8 and have it exclusively set up for honing with a FVB?
If your present set up ticks the boxes then stick with it.

Free handing on a leather honing wheel is more forgiving than the composite wheel.
That said I would recommend honing on either at a precise angle in the jig using a frontal vertical base. Using any calculator to achieve this is relatively simple.
I would then recommend a further honing step on a leather honing wheel or a hanging leather strop to completely remove any residual burr. This should give you the sharpness you are looking for.
As previously suggested, there is a learning curve to Tormek use and I feel the T8 black package might not be the sharpening nirvana it's maybe promoted to be without some leg work. 
Others will surely comment to aid you on your journey. Good luck and don't rush!

It seems that this thread is now becoming polarised into whether the you tuber that initiated the discussion is correct in his chosen honing technique.
The technique he used maybe open to debate among purist Tormek users. Is it too fast and overheating the edge? Etc etc.
The process obviously works for him.
More pertinently, does it work for his customers?
Us Tormek users, slow and steadily and opinonatedly pursuing some holy grail of an ever decreasing Bess score, believing our way is the only way.
I get it. I've done it.
In the real world though away from our safe, organised and territorial workshops, customers want sharp knives. Do they care if it's 120 or 46 Bess? Do they care how their knife has been sharpened as long as it's satisfactorily sharp AND stays sharp for as long as possible ( good edge retention)?
I hope not to invite approbation from the belt grinding community. We know that using this method is highly likely to compromise the temper on the edge of a knife, even with frequent dunking in water to cool the edge ( arguably the damage is done before the chance to cool).
And us Tormek users can get very snobby about this, yes?
But the proof is in the slicing.
I personally prefer quality over quantity and like to know I have not compromised a customer's knife.
And so it then becomes easy to judge others.
What counts is edge retention.
Thanks to 3D for his work on this.it's reassuring.
What will be reassuring to the sharpener, the original subject of this topic, is whether his customer is happy and doesn't come back after a week saying 'it was really sharp and now it's already blunt' , or simply not use his services again.
His protocols will adjust accordingly.
Just my long winded twopennorth worth.....

Loved the video 3D. Make more!
As an aside, as commented earlier on about the drop in sharpness after the the test slicing/ chopping which I found surprising. I think that using your knife to push sliced food away across the chopping board by scraping with the knifes edge seriously dulls the edge. It doesn't affect the validity of your results as you did pretty much the same with both knives.
I always tell my customers not to use the knife edge to push/scrape the food away on the board.
Get into the habit of using the spine of the knife to do this. Retention will be much better.

Interesting 3D.
So edge retention seems not to be compromised by the different honing methods.
So any potential over heating by using the WSKO leather belts seems not to affect the edge retention.
What is of interest to me is how quickly the sharpness decreases with these pretty standard kitchen tasks?

And there was me thinking you were going to go all Vadim on us with that coloured temperature sensitive whatjamecallit that he used in his heating tests. What we get is a carrot.
Tee hee!
Go for it 3D!

I would be very interested in any results 3D, as like you I hone on a WSKO blade grinding attachment at the lowest speed.let us know what you find.

What is also really good about Per's angle setting tool is the confidence it gives in using with wheels of different diameters, for example from a CBN to the leather honing wheel and then maybe to a slightly larger than 250mm paper wheel on a different machine (there is wriggle room to go above 250mm).
So much simpler than inputting data with differing parameters into a calculator then fiddling about with callipers and adjusting USB accordingly.
And I totally agree with CBX, it feels much more satisfying to see that angle clearly on the scale than trusting that a measurement is right.

Yay! Glad that helped Darita.
I suppose that the paper wheels are quite a departure from the slow, even grinding work on the Tormek and it takes a little while to gain confidence, especially as there is an element of jeopardy in the higher speed revolutions.
Personally,I have all but given up on chasing sub 50 Bess scores. Too much time and fiddle faddle involved which can't be justified to most clients. Would only bother with a high end knife and by agreement with a customer.
Let us know how consistent you can get results with the paper wheels. I have had mixed results and don't bother with them much anymore.

When I started using paper wheels I had the same problem and it was a little worrying. So I think I got quite tentative which only made the problem worse. I contacted Vadim who instructed me to use greater pressure than one would think ( can't give you a quantitative figure for how much pressure).
Anyway, from that point on the process became much smoother with little or no chatter. I think there was a bit of a learning curve and a bit of 'running in' for the wheels themselves.