Messages

Here are my measurements. Sorry for the bad drawing.
As shown, the center is 1 mm above the bottom plate of the jig.

Hello again.

According to my recent measurements the jigs center is aligned with blades exactly 2 millimeter thick.
Hmm?

Exact blade, thank you for your very interesting post. 

Please keep us posted about "the small tricks you use to keep the bevels even".

When sharpening 4000 knives per month, you have to sharpen some 20 knives per hour on average. Do you sharpen freehand or do you mount each knife into the knife jig?

What is the lifetime of your Tormek grindstone?

Jan

That sounds impossible, free hand or not. That is 3 minutes per knife. I have used Tormek quite a lot and although there are people faster than me offcourse, some knifes have a very hard steel and needs to be grinded millimeters to get rid of minor damage, and this takes time.

The newer your jig (or 3050 adjustable stop and 3560 o-ring replacement parts) the better results you get.  2 reasons that each side of a two bevel blade may feel different.

1) There is play in  the threads of the Adjustable Stop on the Jig Shaft.  When you press on the Support Arm, the jig shaft tilts inside the Adjustable stop (slight angle bend), when you switch hands to do the other side, it's doubtful you are replicating the pressure of your other hand. 
2) Secondly, it is doubtful that the knife center-line itself will be perfectly parallel to the center line of the jig shaft.  The jig clamp has two elements- a fixed piece and a smaller piece that tightens.  It would be mathematically impossible to tighten the clamp while keeping your knife's vertical center line exactly parallel to the jig center line. 

So until Tormek makes a all stainless steel  forged machine threaded jig and adjustable stop,  you have to compensate with feel through experience practice.
I solve these small mathematical errors through feel.  Of course I sharpen for a living,  about 4000 knives per month.  There are a number of small tricks I use to keep bevels even(i can share these techniques in another thread).  I got really good at this because stones, machines and jig wear out, so I was forced to sharpen on new or old equipment (new T8 with a 250 mm stone or a worn out T7 with 185 mm and a worn out jig.)  One thing i do is order replacement parts for jigs- the brass threaded bushings (M6), new knob screws and o rings. 

One tip.  Don't over sharpen.  Do your knife and check it.  If it seems good, turn the knob once, fine stone grade the stone for just a revolution or two and make three more passes each side to finish your edge.  make sure to hone at the same angle you sharpened at.

Sorry, but math is overrated for perfect results because the machines, stones and jigs are not as "fixed" perfect as you think.  Understand the math first, then just get better with experience.  I can close my eyes, listen to you sharpen and tell you if a fine German or Japanese knife is in the jig or a cheap steel form China.   

Dan
www.exactblade.com

If you sharpen about 4000 knifes a month, I guess you don't use Tormek only?

Thanks to all of you for very good answers. I have tried the shims. Works great.

Hello
As many of you have been noticing, the SVM-45 jig gives different angels once a knife depending on thickness. The jigg is constructed for one thickness of the blade, if you want the exact angle on both sides.

What is that exact thickness?
What is Tormeks rekomendations to compensate for this problem?
Is there any plans to make a pivoting jigg?

Hello.
Is the Japan stone fine enough?
The scissors used by professional hair dresser are really razor sharp and have a polished edge.