Recent posts

#91

Tormek T-1 and T-2 / Re: The T1. Should I get one?

Last post by Ken S - April 14, 2024, 10:49:01 PM

Hi, Rob.

Welcome back. It is good to hear from you; you have been missed. While you were missing, your Uncle Bob has been busy. In fact, he was mentioned in the Agatha Christie Death on the Nile episode my wife and I watched this morning.

I happen to have a T1. I like it; I think you would, too. It is a specialty machine designed for the serious home cook. Instead of just my occasional user thoughts, I think Samuel Stenhem does a much better job of describing it in this Tormek online class. I met Samuel during my week long visit to Tormek last August. We had several opportunities for in depth one on one conversations. In addition to being a good guy, Samuel is the CEO of Tormek and uses his T1 daily in his home kitchen. Here is a link to the video:

https://www.youtube.com/live/nqD0cefN0yU?si=pA1zYPBFWIeORWAA

Don't be a stranger, Rob. You are a friend and part of this family.

Ken

#92

Tormek T-1 and T-2 / The T1. Should I get one?

Last post by Rob - April 14, 2024, 11:10:07 AM

Hello Tormekky's

Long time no post.  I do hope you're all well 😎

I've just seen an ad for the home kitchen sharpener. Should I buy one?  They look awfully nice 😊

Love to all.

Ken, I trust you're well?

Rob

#93

General Tormek Questions / Re: Is the SB-250 black stone ...

Last post by John Hancock Sr - April 11, 2024, 12:12:32 AM

So I am going to add a 250mm CBN 80# Grid as soon as possible

Have you decided which one?

#94

Knife Sharpening / Re: Rock hard felt wheel suppl...

Last post by Ken S - April 10, 2024, 11:36:40 PM

THe felt wheel Vadim (RIP) used was produced by the chinese company Ningbo Purui Polishing Company.

https://www.puruipolishing.com/product/10-inch-rock-hard-felt-wheel/

Regards,
Drilon

The second dimension listed (45mm) is correct forthe felt wheel Vadim sold. The original felt wheels he ordered were 50mm thick. This did not allow for the inset in the outside of the wheel. I ordered on of the first felt wheels he sold. To Vadim's credit, once he realized the mistake in size, he reordered the correct size.

Ken

#95

Knife Sharpening / Re: Rock hard felt wheel suppl...

Last post by Drilon - April 10, 2024, 08:50:08 PM

THe felt wheel Vadim (RIP) used was produced by the chinese company Ningbo Purui Polishing Company.

https://www.puruipolishing.com/product/10-inch-rock-hard-felt-wheel/

Regards,
Drilon

#96

Knife Sharpening / Re: Rock hard felt wheel suppl...

Last post by 3D Anvil - April 10, 2024, 08:33:42 PM

I found this one on Amazon.  I haven't tried it myself so I can't vouch for the quality.

https://www.amazon.com/Marathon-Polishing-Tormek-Density-0-80gm/dp/B0B3KS68XK

#97

General Tormek Questions / Re: Tormek Tips Tricks and Tec...

Last post by Ken S - April 10, 2024, 03:26:14 AM

First: what are CBN grinding wheels?

Second: I read that diamond grinding wheels can also be used dry, but how long do they last? With water, approximately, how many sharpenings can they withstand?

Third: is there a coarser grinding wheel (stone or diamond) that allows you to make the first roughing (especially when the blade is very damaged) and allow the finer ones to last longer?

CBN (Cubic Boron Nitride) wheels are made of CBN, the second hardest material.Only diamond is harder. Both diamond and CBN wheels are considered superabrasives and generally. ut faster and harder steel than conventionalgrinding wheels. While not identical, they can usually be used interchangeably. Tormek recommends startng with the SG grinding wheel.


In imy,opinion, neither diamond or CBN wheels should be used dry. In addition to keeping the toolsrust free, ACC solution prevents grinding dust, runs cooler, and keeps the grinding wheel much cleaner. How long weither diamond or CBN wheels last is largely determined by careful use (light pressure whn grinding).

The coarsest diamnd wheel is the DC-250. the coarsest regular wheel is the SB-250 blackstone. Neither of these wheels is designed for a fine, smooth cut. The finst cut diamond wheel is the DE-250. The finst cut regular wheel is the SJ-4000 Japanese wheel, followed by the SG-250 graded fine.

I suggest you check on the Tormek website (tormek.com). The xcellnt handbok is available ias a free download in sixteen different languages when you register your Tormek.

Keep us posted.

Ken

Thank you and have a good continuation of the evening.

#98

General Tormek Questions / Re: affilatura coltelli : mole

Last post by Nazzareno Falcone - April 09, 2024, 10:58:43 PM

Salve a tutti,
 
Primo: cosa sono le mole CBN?

Secondo:  ho letto che le mole diamantate, si possono usare anche a secco, ma così quanto durano?  Con l'acqua, approssimativamente , quante affilature sopportano?

Terzo: è prevista una mola più grossolana (in pietra o diamantata) che permetta di fare la prima sgrossatura (soprattutto quando la lama è molto rovinata) e permettere a quelle più fini di durare di più?
Grazie e buon proseguimento di serata

#99

Knife Sharpening / Re: Sharpening knives, grindin...

Last post by AlInAussieLand - April 07, 2024, 03:30:09 PM

John,

Our group seems a mixture. We have members who are on a quest for the perfect edge. We have members who want to turn a reasonable business profit from sharpening. We have members who primarily want to keep their tools and knives working sharp. We have members who, like me, are a mixture of these.

In the past, I recommended learning freehand honing. I have come to believe that efficient use of an FVB has made jig controlled honing a better choice. I can see why Tormek might have favored freehand honing. The plastic knob of the SVM jigs and the plastic horizontal sleeve locking knobs do not clear the support bar legs. An FVB solves this problem. Like you, my freehand skills do not compete with a jig. The jig makes us better sharpeners.

Ken

Agree
You can throw me into the "mixed" bag as well. My T8 hasn't arrived yet and I am already looking at another $2K in jigs and other stuff to purchase in the very near future.
I use trailing technique on my Edge Pro (painful to do) on the really hard steel knifes as otherwise they tend to micro chip.
As mainly a knife sharpener "freehand" honing on common knifes is fine. Also sharpening at 240# grid can be an advantage to make knifes "sharp" quickly.
Once you get to the more expensive knifes, a jig even when honing is essential if you want to keep the edge like when it was new.
With a decade worth of sharpening on an "Edge Pro", I learned that depending on the knife's quality and hardness, different techniques are required.
We have a range of good to higher quality knifes and they get treated differently. The "good quality once get the 240# grid with a quick hone for DE-burring treatment. If used as intended by the manufacturer, they will last a long time between sharpening with just a quick touch-up in between.
Some of our high quality once have extremely hard steel and are prone to "micro chip" if touched with a rough stone of 240# or under. They hold their edge for a long time, but are a real pain to sharpen and even worse if they do have some micro chips.

I have got a cheap larger folding knife that I purchased on E-Bay. It was purely purchased as an exercise for the "ultimate" sharpening on an Edge Pro. It took about 10 hours of careful sharpening to get that mirror like edge finishing with a 10K# grid. This knife will truly split hair with ease and you can see your reflection in it. But is it practical ??
NO
So I sharpen knifes in a way to suit their needs and quality, using different techniques.
Can't wait for my T8 to arrive, so that I can widen my tool/utility range that require sharpening/restoring. 

#100

General Tormek Questions / Re: Chainsaw bar dressing?

Last post by AlInAussieLand - April 07, 2024, 02:27:54 PM

I can really recommend this chainsaw tool.

https://www.stihl.com/STIHL-power-tools-A-great-range/Chains-bars-and-accessories/Tools-for-cutting-attachment-maintenance/21750-63674/2-in-1-file-holder.aspx

This tool is not to remove the ridge on the chainsaw bar, but to sharpen the teeth.
As somebody already said, a simple fine flat file will take off the ridge on the bar that either happens over time or due to a badly sharpened chain which does not do a straight cut.