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#1
General Tormek Questions / Re: best time to apply honing ...
Last post by Dutchman - Today at 10:01:03 AMBut then it will have to be spread out over the surface before it dries imho. 
#2
General Tormek Questions / Re: New user; Japanese waterst...
Last post by tgbto - Today at 09:09:09 AMI will also concur with the advice to stick to the SG for knives : the SJ has a tendency to leave an edge with much less "tooth", so you might achieve nuclear fission for the first few femtometers of the stroke, but after a few contacts with the cutting board you might endup with more of that dreaded slipping feeling on softer vegetables. In my experience, the ungraded SG (or fine graded SG if you want a more refined edge) followed by a thorough honing on the leather wheel with PA-70 compound will work wonders.
Moreover, the claims by Tormek that a knife sharpened with the SJ won't require honing is simply untrue, at least on standard soft to mid-hardness knives. The SJ will leave a burr, that might not be visible even under a microscope, but there *will* be soft metal at the APEX that you will want to hone anyway.
I would also second the MB-102 as being the single most important accessory. That or the longer USB if you want to properly sharpen anything longer than 8".
Moreover, the claims by Tormek that a knife sharpened with the SJ won't require honing is simply untrue, at least on standard soft to mid-hardness knives. The SJ will leave a burr, that might not be visible even under a microscope, but there *will* be soft metal at the APEX that you will want to hone anyway.
I would also second the MB-102 as being the single most important accessory. That or the longer USB if you want to properly sharpen anything longer than 8".
#3
General Tormek Questions / best time to apply honing comp...
Last post by Ken S - Today at 08:24:45 AMAll of the demonstrations in the online classes show the honing compound being applied directly before honing. I can see the teaching value of doing this in sequence; however, it is not the most effective time to apply the compound.
The online classes mention that the honing compound works best when it is almost dry. I would suggest that it should be applied the first thing after the cover is removed to give it as much time as practical to dry.
Ken
The online classes mention that the honing compound works best when it is almost dry. I would suggest that it should be applied the first thing after the cover is removed to give it as much time as practical to dry.
Ken
#4
General Tormek Questions / Re: Manual
Last post by Ken S - Today at 08:14:18 AMKevin,
Your printed copy of the handbook should be a working book. Mine has a lot of underlining and hilighting. I note page numbers with topics in the front as well as notes in the margins.
Inside the cover is a good place to note the serial number, date and dealer name and contact information.
Make sure to have a copy, either printed or online of the handbook in your primary language.
Ken
Your printed copy of the handbook should be a working book. Mine has a lot of underlining and hilighting. I note page numbers with topics in the front as well as notes in the margins.
Inside the cover is a good place to note the serial number, date and dealer name and contact information.
Make sure to have a copy, either printed or online of the handbook in your primary language.
Ken
#5
General Tormek Questions / Re: New user; Japanese waterst...
Last post by Ken S - Today at 08:00:22 AMI agree withRick about the importance of honing. I would also recommend the MB-100.
Several of the online classes mention making the lastpass ofthe grinding processes with verylight grinding pressure. Do this on bothbevels of knives toreduce the size of the burr before using the leather honing wheel.
Ken
Several of the online classes mention making the lastpass ofthe grinding processes with verylight grinding pressure. Do this on bothbevels of knives toreduce the size of the burr before using the leather honing wheel.
Ken
#6
General Tormek Questions / Re: New user; Japanese waterst...
Last post by RickKrung - Today at 07:02:22 AMI agree with Ken, with a slight amplification. Yes, focus on nailing the process, developing muscle memory, etc. for the grinding process. But, I think he didn't go far enough to emphasize the importance of deburring. You can get most excellent results with the standard stone as long as you do an effective and complete job of deburring.
I believe that is best done when the deburring operation is done using guided angle maintenance, rather than free-hand. To this end, I think the first piece of additional equipment a beginner should get is the Frontal Vertical Base (FVB). But... rather than buying a single purpose "FVB", I think the updated Tormek Multi-Base (MB-102) that incorporates the vertical holes so that it functions as an FVB is the way to go.
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Rick
I believe that is best done when the deburring operation is done using guided angle maintenance, rather than free-hand. To this end, I think the first piece of additional equipment a beginner should get is the Frontal Vertical Base (FVB). But... rather than buying a single purpose "FVB", I think the updated Tormek Multi-Base (MB-102) that incorporates the vertical holes so that it functions as an FVB is the way to go.
You cannot view this attachment.
Rick
#7
General Tormek Questions / Re: VICTORY KNIVES NEW ZEALAND
Last post by smcinco - Today at 05:45:33 AMQuote from: Herman Trivilino on Yesterday at 08:26:05 AMA question arises. Why do the Victory brand fish filleting knives use a softer steel? Is it to make sharpening on-the-go easier? Do they sacrifice hardness so they can get improved ease of sharpening, improved ability to stay sharp, improved ability to resist staining?
Maybe more flexibility?
#8
General Tormek Questions / Re: New user; Japanese waterst...
Last post by MerryMadMick - Today at 03:45:55 AMThanks for the advice Ken. Mainly it was a question of what results one could expect using the Japanese wheel vs the stock wheel.
The book is great. I couldn't figure out how to sharpen my larger timber framing slicks on it so I ended up making a jig to ride the universal bar. Seems to work.
All the best.
The book is great. I couldn't figure out how to sharpen my larger timber framing slicks on it so I ended up making a jig to ride the universal bar. Seems to work.
All the best.
#9
General Tormek Questions / Re: New user; Japanese waterst...
Last post by Ken S - Today at 03:12:54 AMWelcome to the forum, MMM.
My advice may not be popular with the forum or what you want to hear.
Don't short circuit your sharpening skill education by starting out with too much gear or too many grinding wheels. Stay with just the SG until you thoroughly master it. Give yourself the opportunity to learn the craft. Study the handbook and the online classes. Spend time sharpening on learning tools.
Keep us posted.
Ken
My advice may not be popular with the forum or what you want to hear.
Don't short circuit your sharpening skill education by starting out with too much gear or too many grinding wheels. Stay with just the SG until you thoroughly master it. Give yourself the opportunity to learn the craft. Study the handbook and the online classes. Spend time sharpening on learning tools.
Keep us posted.
Ken
#10
General Tormek Questions / Re: Manual
Last post by orbit1957 - Today at 02:40:51 AMThank You Ken will follow your helpfull advise! So glad to have a forum to share and digest.