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[one side of the blade edge was lifted off of the stone surface.]

I just became a member here, so yes, I'm late to this thread.  For those seeing this thread late as well, I just wanted to throw in my $.02. 
I feel your pain, as I too, have run into this same problem.  Yes, the truing jig is needed.  That said, after truing my stone, I mounted up the chisel and laid it onto the stone to set the angle for grinding.  What I saw was that even with a trued stone, one side of the blade edge was lifted off of the stone surface.  The only thing that could correct that was the SE77 adjustments.
What I'm searching for now is a simple, straightforward way to make the adjustments, instead of trial and error, as I am doing now.

Ken, I think you're right.  I have looked for some instruction on using the jig, but all seem to concentrate on producing a cambered edge, not a square edge.  Maybe they assume the jig will produce a square edge out of the box?  Unfortunately, for me that was not the case as one side of the blade touched the stone, while the other side was well off the blade and that was with a trued stone.
Yes, I have several precision squares, however none are quite small enough to use on the jig with the blade mounted, therefore to check the blade for square, the chisel/plane iron has to be dismounted, making the procedure very laborious.  I was hoping there is a simpler way to check for square and make the adjustment in a methodical procedure.

Not into cambering yet.  That's next.  Right now, I need to master the square edge, if at all possible.

I'm just learning how to use the SE-77 and I'm wondering if there is a set procedure to use in order to get square plane iron edges?  If there is a specific video or thread on the topic, please let me know.  I have a Super Grind 2005, with Micro Adjust Tool Rest and SE-77.  I've also been using the TT-50 truing tool.
Thank you for all the help.

Thanks for the replies.  I have the TT50 and the new support bar.  I'm wondering what the MSK250 will give me?  Will it allow me to use diamond wheels if I choose or do I already have that capability?  I'm also surprised to hear that my old machine may have tighter tolerances, as the T8 is supposed to have "tighter tolerances on tool rest mounts", which insinuates that the old machines weren't up to snuff.

First let me say that I'm new to this forum and thank you for allowing me in.  I have an old Tormek 2005 and have used it very little over the several years I've owned it.  Recently, I began concentrating on learning how to properly sharpen my planes irons and chisels, using stones and honing jigs.  I soon realized that forming a new bevel using stones or sandpaper takes way too long.  That's when I thought, why not use my little used Tormek.  My first results were less than stellar, as I could not get a an edge that was square to the body.  I learned about the SE-77 from another website and viola...square edges, pretty much.  From there, I regraded the sone, then stropped and now I'm able to get edges that rival my stones.
So, how often should I reflatten the stone?  It seemed that after every chisel and iron I did, the stone was no longer completely flat.  If ones should reflatten that often, how long will the wheel last?
Now that I know my old Tormek works well, I'm wondering if it's worth it for me to ditch the old model and get a new T8?  Are things better on the T8, than they are on the old 2005?  The two machines look so much the same that I just don't know.  Help please.

I know this is an older thread, but I though I'd chime in with my similar experience and solution. I had the same issues of getting my plane irons and chisels to come square.  I did everything I was supposed to do, but. nothing worked.  Many on another website kept telling me that my technique was not right and I should do this or do that.  I finally took a known, square and sharp chisel, mounted it up and looked at how it was resting on the stone.  That's when I saw that one side of the blade was lifted up from the stone surface.  With my old jig, there was no way to adjust for that, but that was the culprit for sure.  The one suggestion that was made was that I needed to get an SE-77 to make the fix.  It worked!  A couple of tweaks and the fix was in.  I hope this helps and here's the original thread... 
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?268832-Tried-The-Tormek-Again-Back-to-Stones