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#81

Knife Sharpening / Re: Sharpening knives, grindin...

Last post by AlInAussieLand - April 07, 2024, 03:30:09 PM

John,

Our group seems a mixture. We have members who are on a quest for the perfect edge. We have members who want to turn a reasonable business profit from sharpening. We have members who primarily want to keep their tools and knives working sharp. We have members who, like me, are a mixture of these.

In the past, I recommended learning freehand honing. I have come to believe that efficient use of an FVB has made jig controlled honing a better choice. I can see why Tormek might have favored freehand honing. The plastic knob of the SVM jigs and the plastic horizontal sleeve locking knobs do not clear the support bar legs. An FVB solves this problem. Like you, my freehand skills do not compete with a jig. The jig makes us better sharpeners.

Ken

Agree
You can throw me into the "mixed" bag as well. My T8 hasn't arrived yet and I am already looking at another $2K in jigs and other stuff to purchase in the very near future.
I use trailing technique on my Edge Pro (painful to do) on the really hard steel knifes as otherwise they tend to micro chip.
As mainly a knife sharpener "freehand" honing on common knifes is fine. Also sharpening at 240# grid can be an advantage to make knifes "sharp" quickly.
Once you get to the more expensive knifes, a jig even when honing is essential if you want to keep the edge like when it was new.
With a decade worth of sharpening on an "Edge Pro", I learned that depending on the knife's quality and hardness, different techniques are required.
We have a range of good to higher quality knifes and they get treated differently. The "good quality once get the 240# grid with a quick hone for DE-burring treatment. If used as intended by the manufacturer, they will last a long time between sharpening with just a quick touch-up in between.
Some of our high quality once have extremely hard steel and are prone to "micro chip" if touched with a rough stone of 240# or under. They hold their edge for a long time, but are a real pain to sharpen and even worse if they do have some micro chips.

I have got a cheap larger folding knife that I purchased on E-Bay. It was purely purchased as an exercise for the "ultimate" sharpening on an Edge Pro. It took about 10 hours of careful sharpening to get that mirror like edge finishing with a 10K# grid. This knife will truly split hair with ease and you can see your reflection in it. But is it practical ??
NO
So I sharpen knifes in a way to suit their needs and quality, using different techniques.
Can't wait for my T8 to arrive, so that I can widen my tool/utility range that require sharpening/restoring. 

#82

General Tormek Questions / Re: Chainsaw bar dressing?

Last post by AlInAussieLand - April 07, 2024, 02:27:54 PM

I can really recommend this chainsaw tool.

https://www.stihl.com/STIHL-power-tools-A-great-range/Chains-bars-and-accessories/Tools-for-cutting-attachment-maintenance/21750-63674/2-in-1-file-holder.aspx

This tool is not to remove the ridge on the chainsaw bar, but to sharpen the teeth.
As somebody already said, a simple fine flat file will take off the ridge on the bar that either happens over time or due to a badly sharpened chain which does not do a straight cut.

#83

General Tormek Questions / Re: Is the SB-250 black stone ...

Last post by AlInAussieLand - April 07, 2024, 01:29:30 PM

I have my T8 coming. Not using it as a business but for personal use mainly for knife sharpening, which will expand with the Tormek to include planers and axes plus mower blades.
But I am not new to sharpening as I have been using my "Edge Pro" professional version for over 10 years now.
Getting to the point....One of the reasons I chose the T8 was to help, regarding more rapid material removal, as my extended family and anybody that has asked me to sharpen their knifes, brought knifes that didn't just require sharpening but total rebuild of the blade edges.
So I am going to add a 250mm CBN 80# Grid as soon as possible.
I am hoping that it can be used to remove material quick and re-build the edge shape first, before continuing with another stone for sharpening and honing.

#84

Wood Carving / interesting scandi grind sharp...

Last post by Ken S - April 06, 2024, 12:00:34 PM

This video shows an interesting combination grind for scandigrind carving knives:

https://youtu.be/2awkDNBT584?si=HV0H3RqOuEKk5pI8

Ken

#85

General Tormek Questions / Re: Marking chisels for initia...

Last post by pe2dave - April 05, 2024, 02:27:08 PM

Resolution:
   Using the TTS-100 to obtain a repeatable distance from wheel.
    Trial and error (black marker) to set the extension from the jig
    Check the blade is right to the jig
    For this chisel, record the distance from the jig edge.
JD.

#86

General Tormek Questions / Re: Marking chisels for initia...

Last post by pe2dave - April 04, 2024, 03:46:23 PM

Quote cut.
Rick

Interesting Rick. Though I've little knowledge and less interest in metal machining.
I'd not thought of outsourced 3D - though the 10 would be a bit irksome when one wanted :-)
  I'm curious about the finished item.
Tks for the response.

#87

General Tormek Questions / Re: Marking chisels for initia...

Last post by pe2dave - April 04, 2024, 03:42:28 PM

1. File off those (pointless?) marks atop the edge of the jig

That mark is for centering a plane blade in order to apply a symetrical curve on the iron.

John is absolutely correct. Far from being pointless, the line on the front of the SE-77 is what allows centering the plane blade for balanced cambering. Controlled cambering is what separates a cabinetmaker from an average woodworker.

Those who do not understand cambering should just ignore the line, preserving it for the day when they do understand it.

Ken

which could be an indentation rather than a protrusion?
Without that, I can use that surface to ensure the chisel is at right angles to the jig.

#88

General Tormek Questions / Re: Tool Marking

Last post by tgbto - April 04, 2024, 08:18:32 AM

What laser do you use?

The IR one is the Atomstack R30 V2.

I do have reservations with engraving lines on a chisel, if they are part of a quick setup scheme. Multiple sharpenings will shorten the chisel, thus making the lines inaccurate. Bevel angles also seem iffy to me. If obtained from the knife manufacturer, are they chosen for best cutting or minimum customer complaints. I think I would rather rely on the sharpener's experience.

The use for chisel I'm not sure about. It takes about 5 seconds to engrave a fine line on the back of my chisel so I'll see how it goes. I don't use them often, but the idea would be to always reference to the line that is closest to the handle.

For knives, I - most of the time - don't use manufacturer angles. I agree they're often chosen for minimum customer complaints with customers who have no idea how to maintain knives, and so the cutting experience is significantly degraded. Even for Shun knives where 16° seems a perfect choice, I slightly changed the angle to 15 dps so I can quickly resharpen a bulk of 15 dps knives without having to change projection distance. I mostly use 12.5, 15 and 18 dps. Knowing what angle to input to the calculator allows to get a burr in a couple of passes with minimal material removal. I use the knives library of my beloved TormekCalc spreadsheet when I'm not sure what angle to set, then engrave it when I'm done.

#89

General Tormek Questions / Re: Marking chisels for initia...

Last post by Ken S - April 04, 2024, 01:12:08 AM

1. File off those (pointless?) marks atop the edge of the jig

That mark is for centering a plane blade in order to apply a symetrical curve on the iron.

John is absolutely correct. Far from being pointless, the line on the front of the SE-77 is what allows centering the plane blade for balanced cambering. Controlled cambering is what separates a cabinetmaker from an average woodworker.

Those who do not understand cambering should just ignore the line, preserving it for the day when they do understand it.

Ken

#90

General Tormek Questions / Re: Marking chisels for initia...

Last post by John Hancock Sr - April 03, 2024, 11:20:02 PM

1. File off those (pointless?) marks atop the edge of the jig

That mark is for centering a plane blade in order to apply a symetrical curve on the iron.