Recent posts

#1

Knife Sharpening / Re: New angle jig KS-123

Last post by John_B - Today at 08:23:49 PM

My KS-123 arrived today. I first set up to sharpen a kitchen knife using the KJ-45 jig with the KS-123. After getting it all adjusted, I then measured the projection and entered the values into Calcapp which said the USB height should be 88.6mm. Measuring this after the angle setter was used yielded 88.7mm.  I'd say this is well within specs of my inexpensive digital caliper used to take the measurement.

Even the first setup was quick after having watched the Tormek video.

Great to hear. I have 2 support bars so for knives I will be setting one for honing and one for sharpening. I will use my jig for setting the projection distance on each knife. Going this the new KS-123 won't be used too much unless someone wants a different angle.

I then used the angle setter to set the honing angle to 1 degree greater. Simple, with great results.

#2

General Tormek Questions / Re: SVX-150 or SVD-110

Last post by Swemek - Today at 06:46:25 PM

I am confused by "concave edges". If you mean cambering edges on plane irons (grinding back the outer edges to eliminate "plane tracks"), the SE77 is the ideal choice, as the amount of camber can be carefully controlled. Before we had the SE-77, we used the SE76 and leaned on the corners. This produced cambered edges which, if not exact, were usually close enough.

Thanks Tgbto!
Yes I should have used the term hollow grind, or is it "ground" (?), also a confusing term. Is it the same thing?
The OP really is talking about a concave edge as in ground with a wheel instead of a plate (slightly convex edge) or a belt (more pronounced convexity depending on pressure and belt slack) :

What i don't know is how well or bad planar blades is with a concave bevel? I'm currently using my works sharp belt sander for dito, which gives me a convex edge and that works great.

In theory, convex blades have a tendency to skim/pull out, concave blades will dig in. I don't think you'll notice much of a difference in practice because the convexity will not be that pronounced over the thickness of the blade.

Thank you, Ken. Yes that might be the case - me ending up with all the jigs one could get. But anything other than knifes I just sharpen for my self only and the results from the Work Sharp belt sander is absolutely good enough for my use. With Blade Grinding Attachment I get acceptable results on scissors without any jigs, so I thought I could apply the same technique on Tormnek.

But it's so nice to get rid of the noise and the metal dust from WS. Using the Tormek is calming and meditative

#3

General Tormek Questions / Re: SVX-150 or SVD-110

Last post by Ken S - Today at 04:22:25 PM

Good point, TGB.

I remember "concave" or "hollow ground" edges from the early 1970s. They were quite the rage with woodworkers. Once the initial edge was ground, final sharpening and several resharpenings required only sharpening the apex and the very back of the bevel. This was quite a saving in sharpening time and labor.This predated the Tormek.

My 1972 vintage six inch Craftsman dry grinder is typical of grinders of that era. The hollow grind is easy to see and easier to see as the wheel wore down.
The larger ten inch (250mm) diameter Tormek wheels technically also produced a hollow grind, although the larger diameter made the very small hollow almost invisible. Also, the cool running water grind of the Tormek made the entire process possible under power.

In my opinion, and some will think differently, the concern about concave or hollow grinding is a leftover from the past.

Ken

#4

Knife Sharpening / Re: Simple Platform Jig

Last post by Ken S - Today at 04:03:59 PM

Ever since the first days of the forum exploration of the small platform jigs, I have never felt that we fully explored the possibilities of this versatile jig. I have also felt that Tormek never showed much interest in smaller platforms. I find this especially sad since they hold the patent to the Torlock and the present design would give them a leg up with the CAD/CAM work.

3D printing presents multiple opportunities, especially if done in "the home shop". From my own limited 3D printing knowledge with my grandson's printer:

I can see that a simple washer/spacer project would be easy to design and print. Make the initial one like the spacer on the shaft between the machine and the grinding wheel. 1/8" (3mm) is thick enough and won't require lengthy printing times. The main function of this is to determine the exact diameter fit of the bore, approximately 12mm). Once this is determined, this number can be appliedto any number of designs.

Then design the bottom part of the jig. This should include a hole to be tapped 6M thread, the standard Tormek size.

Once the bottom is designed, the upper portion (s) can be designed for the intended purposes. This could be either a simple flat platform or custom platforms designed for particular tools (metal lathe tools come to mind).

Possible variations are only limited byour imagination.

Ken

#5

General Tormek Questions / Re: SVX-150 or SVD-110

Last post by tgbto - Today at 03:31:00 PM

I am confused by "concave edges". If you mean cambering edges on plane irons (grinding back the outer edges to eliminate "plane tracks"), the SE77 is the ideal choice, as the amount of camber can be carefully controlled. Before we had the SE-77, we used the SE76 and leaned on the corners. This produced cambered edges which, if not exact, were usually close enough.

The OP really is talking about a concave edge as in ground with a wheel instead of a plate (slightly convex edge) or a belt (more pronounced convexity depending on pressure and belt slack) :

What i don't know is how well or bad planar blades is with a concave bevel? I'm currently using my works sharp belt sander for dito, which gives me a convex edge and that works great.

In theory, convex blades have a tendency to skim/pull out, concave blades will dig in. I don't think you'll notice much of a difference in practice because the convexity will not be that pronounced over the thickness of the blade.

#6

Knife Sharpening / Re: new sharpener with a few p...

Last post by Ken S - Today at 03:29:26 PM

I agree with CB and TGB, especially about the need for practice. I would include "disciplined" with practice and careful study of the online classes. I have watched all of them more than once, and learn more each time I do. These fine training resources were not available when I started learning how to use the Tormek.

I have been fortunate enough to have personally observed both Wolfgang and Stig sharpening. Their passion for sharpening is obvious as is their many hours of experience.

Do not become discouraged. I firmly believe that we can do anything they do we can do, also, if we are willing to put in the dedication and work. Mastery is a long road; however, for us it should be a pleasant and fukfilling journey.

Ken

#7

General Tormek Questions / Re: SVX-150 or SVD-110

Last post by Ken S - Today at 03:10:24 PM

The two platforms have different primary functions. The SVX is really designed for scissors. The SVD is really designed for larger turning scrapers. For chisels and plane irons, the best choice is the SE-77.

I am confused by "concave edges". If you mean cambering edges on plane irons (grinding back the outer edges to eliminate "plane tracks"), the SE77 is the ideal choice, as the amount of camber can be carefully controlled. Before we had the SE-77, we used the SE76 and leaned on the corners. This produced cambered edges which, if not exact, were usually close enough.

For heavily cambered edges, as used in roughing planes or for initial rough use with a jack plane, the SE-77 does not have enough adjustability range. This is best handled by the SVD. As this is for initial rough work, exact edge shape is not critical.

The SVD is a good "all arounder". The SE is the first choice for chisels and plane irons. The SVX is the logical choice for scissors.

I would start with the SE. (Watch the online class with Stig for a great chisel alignment tip.) Eventually you will probably want all three jigs.

Keep us posted.

Ken

#8

General Tormek Questions / Re: HoneRite and the SJ-250

Last post by Ken S - Today at 02:42:36 PM

I have not used HoneRite Gold or my SJ-250 in a long time. (This is not a criticism of either.)

John, I have not read anything from Tormek cautioning agaiinst using ACC (Tormek juice) with the SJ. Would you please post your source?

As ACC and Hone Rite Gold are sold by different companies, I might expect a non commital answer from either like "Our product works well. We have not tested other products."

Here is a link to one possible solution:

https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/products/tormek-t8-water-trough

A spare water trough is inexpensive and easy to change out. There is never any cross contamination.

Ken

#9

Knife Sharpening / Re: new sharpener with a few p...

Last post by cbwx34 - Today at 02:42:09 PM

...
i thought the laser would help when lifter to keep all of the blade edge cutting from the same spot on the stone, to keep the same angle.
Am i misunderstanding this part?

The knife jig maintains the position on the stone.  Yes you could use a laser if you want to try and manipulate the position, but the constraints (design) of the KJ-45 wouldn't make that practical IMO.  The laser is most useful if you want to freehand sharpen on the Tormek.

The more curve in the belly/tip area, the less practical lifting is... as tgbto mentioned, that's where trying to pivot or rotate a bit to maintain the angle (or bevel width) comes into play.

#10

General Tormek Questions / Re: SVX-150 or SVD-110

Last post by tgbto - Today at 01:39:52 PM

I'm not sure sharpening scissors with the SVD-110 would be easy, especially those with a narrow blade.

The SVX is really fine for scissors, I've never tried to use it instead of the SVD, as I'd worry about damaging the surface with a teflon (or similar) coating. You might get away with clamping a protective plate onto the SVX base jig though, in some cases.