News:

Welcome to the Tormek Community. If you previously registered for the discussion board but had not made any posts, your membership may have been purged. Secure your membership in this community by joining in the conversations.
www.tormek.com

Main Menu

Hock-Style Knife Sharpening

Started by renatus, February 02, 2017, 06:01:36 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

renatus

As a relative newbie to woodworking, knives, sharpening, etc. I think I've been doing a great job with my plane blades, kitchen knives and chisels. However, I'm a little flummoxed by my Hock and Hock-Style blades which don't seem to fit either knife jig (SVM-45 SVM-140) very well for the bevel location and angle I'm attempting to accomplish. Is it just my inexperience rearing its head or does this style of blade require a modification or new jig?

The blades I have have widths of 18mm, 12mm, 8mm, 7mm, 6.5mm with the 6.5mm having a very long cutting edge similar to the bottom-most knife in this picture (the others are like the upper-most).




Any suggestions will be much appreciated!





Jan

Welcome to the forum Renatus!  :)

I recommend to use the Square edge jig SE-76/77. Align the skewed edge to a line drawn on the grindstone.  ;)

Jan

Ken S

Good thought, Jan. I second the idea.

Welcome to the forum, renatus.

Ken

renatus

Thank you for the suggestion and the welcome.

I did a quick mock-up and that jig could work for all but the smallest of the knives due to the jig itself interfering with the blade preventing me from getting my desired cutting length. (length of knife, length and angle of cutting side versus width of jig)

I neglected to mention before that these knives are ground on both sides. Obviously the SE-77 isn't able to flip over like the knife jigs, so is there a way to maintain the same grinding angle aside from resetting and eyeballing with or without the WM-200?

Ken S

Good question, retanus.

Once you have the Distance set for the first side between the universal support bar and the grinding wheel, do not change it.

Measure the Protrusion of the blade from the jig. When you flip the blade over to grind the second bevel, make sure the Protrusion remains the same and that the edge is realigned with the mark you made on the grinding wheel.

This sounds complicated, but will soon become second nature. Keep us posted!

Ken

Jan

#5
Quote from: renatus on February 03, 2017, 12:12:20 AM

I did a quick mock-up and that jig could work for all but the smallest of the knives due to the jig itself interfering with the blade preventing me from getting my desired cutting length. (length of knife, length and angle of cutting side versus width of jig)


Try to mount the most pointed knife in the scissors jig.  ;)

Jan

P.S.: You probably will have to grid it away from the edge!

Ken S


Jan

#7
Ken, I hope it will work fine.  :)
The blades are also called "Violin" Knife Blades. The smallest knife can have the tip circa 10° and the bevel angle may be some 35°.

Renatus, use the marker method to replicate the existing bevel angle. It is easier and more accurate then to use the Anglemaster. The base of the scissors jig will ensure the same bevel angle also for the other side of the blade.  ;)

Jan

renatus

It looks like the scissor jig will work for the thinnest of the knives and I will need much, much more practice to get a proper edge. Thank you for that!

I haven't yet been able to get the square edge jig to work quite the way I need it to yet, but I'm going to keep plugging away at it and see. Worst case I'll share a few pictures of the issues I have run into and maybe more learned minds will continue sharing their insight.

Jan

Renatus, you are welcome! "There is no shame in not knowing something. The shame is in not being willing to learn." Keep us posted, please.  :)

Jan

Ken S