I am having trouble completely de-burring the edge on the Leather Honing Wheel on the T-4. I have tried adding oil or new Honing Paste, but that doesn't seem to help. Not sure what to do, as I have been having to strop or microbevel on a stone to get rid of all of the burr.
When I am sharpening I try and generate as small a burr as I can with the SG stone graded coarse. When I can see a burr using a magnifier I flip the knife and repeat. I then grade the stone fine to refine the surface of the bevel and reduce the size of the burr. Moving to the honing wheel I use a front vertical base (FVB) and a USB in conjunction with the knife jig to accurately set the honing angle (angle dependant on knife steel). I then lightly hone both sides of the knife to remove the final burr. Doing this produces an extremely sharp knife with no burr. It is worth noting that the burring angle is normally greater than that used for sharpening by a small amount. At this point the knives are extremely sharp and are a joy to use.
I try and make the smallest burr I can. I also do a few light burr reduction/minimization passes, so the burr really can't be felt. The burr I am talking about is very small, and can only be in spots on the blade. Under magnification it appears to be a micro-bevel. I call these 'micro-burrs'. These 'micro-burrs' are what I am having issues removing.
Stig has told me in numerous conversations that he uses more pressure than many users, both in sharpening and honing. He also uses plenty of honing compound.
I would like to clarify one point. I realize you have a T4. However, I do not feel this burr would be less of a problem with the T8.
Ken
Ken,
It could be the steel I am sharpening. The knife is a Spyderco PM2 in S30V, so it is a wear resistant steel. I will try using some more pressure on the honing wheel.
Low pressure, high angle.
I will try that also, thank you.
Quote from: Sharpco on November 13, 2020, 12:43:19 PM
Low pressure, high angle.
I think that is the question.
I have sharpened my Spyderco Military (S30V) and deburred with the leather wheel on T8 with perfect results.
Two passes per side in the same angle. Three passes per side in one more DPS and last pass in the same angle very, very slow and very low pressure.
I think that the honing wheel not works better if the pressure is high.
Regards
What kind of sharpness are you getting?
I think I found my answer here:
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3328.0
Quote
I ground primary bevels freehand with the Tormek, knocked off the burr on a Spyderco Sharpmaker to save stropping time, then finished on the leather wheel. One scout timed me at 1:10 for his knife.
Quote from: jasonstone20 on November 15, 2020, 04:08:07 PM
What kind of sharpness are you getting?
Always under 100BESS at 15-17 dps. But impossible in one or two minutes :)
Regards
I think the problem lies somewhere else... just a thought to think about.... it doesn't matter if the T4 or the T8 goes from a stone or any other wheel with 200 or 250 to a 170 or 220 mm wheel (leather). it just doesn't fit for me. however, i'm neither a mathematician nor an engineer. just a feeling.
for this reason i have now created new leather wheels with a diameter of 250 mm for the T8. Tomorrow i will also get some 200 mm wheels for the T4 for some friends. i hope this will solve the problems.
cheers Hanns
A 200mm Leather Honing Wheel would be awesome!
Did u mean taht ? ;D ;)
later the day in my shop 8)
#cheers Hanns
Yeah, I could use one attached to the smaller Leather Honing Wheel like you showed in the earlier picture.
Ok, I got the freehand honing thing figured out, so I can deburr cleanly. Thank you everyone.