Though I agree that sharpening with the Tormek (T3/4/7/8 SG2000, ...) requires training, patience, and skillbuilding, I think it's fair to say that you shouldn't need a non-included truing tool to be able to sharpen properly. And *if* the wheel is indeed out-of-square with the USB, then the blame falls squarely with Tormek.
That being said, that's a big "IF" : I don't think Tormek has begun shipping SG grindstones that are not square within acceptable tolerances. So the USB setup must be to blame, and though you might be able to true your SG-200, that won't work with, say, a DF-200.
So the way I see it : if the USB is indeed not reasonably parallel to the shaft, then I'd suggest dealing with Tormek support. But before that, I'd make sure to set it up using the recommended procedure where you press down on the threaded leg before tightening the corresponding knob, then the other one.
That doesn't mean that you won't eventually (or rather, soon) need a truing tool. But you shouldn't mess up your stone needlessly. And yes, the T-4/T-8 choice might actually be more real-estate-driven, rather than financially driven, all things considered.
[EDIT] The wheel being untrue when you checked it might be the result of your first sharpening sessions, where you might have applied pressure unevenly. A good way to check this would be to use a precisely machined square : if you see light shining through between the square and the top of the wheel when you lay one side of the square flat against the side of the wheel, then that's most probably the case. You could also check the trueness of your USB by tightening it as mentioned and using the side of the wheel as a reference for your square. [/EDIT]
That being said, that's a big "IF" : I don't think Tormek has begun shipping SG grindstones that are not square within acceptable tolerances. So the USB setup must be to blame, and though you might be able to true your SG-200, that won't work with, say, a DF-200.
So the way I see it : if the USB is indeed not reasonably parallel to the shaft, then I'd suggest dealing with Tormek support. But before that, I'd make sure to set it up using the recommended procedure where you press down on the threaded leg before tightening the corresponding knob, then the other one.
That doesn't mean that you won't eventually (or rather, soon) need a truing tool. But you shouldn't mess up your stone needlessly. And yes, the T-4/T-8 choice might actually be more real-estate-driven, rather than financially driven, all things considered.
[EDIT] The wheel being untrue when you checked it might be the result of your first sharpening sessions, where you might have applied pressure unevenly. A good way to check this would be to use a precisely machined square : if you see light shining through between the square and the top of the wheel when you lay one side of the square flat against the side of the wheel, then that's most probably the case. You could also check the trueness of your USB by tightening it as mentioned and using the side of the wheel as a reference for your square. [/EDIT]