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I may be wrong here. However, I have successfully cleaned off the paste using 80 and then 120 grit sandpaper. It took a while due to clogging. I had to do it to true the wheel you see ( it had gone off square).
So I pretty certain that the same would apply to the alcohol diamond spray as ( explained in a previous post) the diamonds won't have penetrated too far into the paper and coarse sand paper would scrape them off.  Just be sure to meticulously clean up with vacuum cleaner and brush before applying anything else.

I think I understand Ken. Interesting.
So will the self centering jig handle both knives below (your thin paring knives for example) AND above ( thick bushcraft knives for example) the 2-3mm range?
I ask because I was thinking of getting at least one old style jig modified a la Wootz advice for thicker knives.
If the new jig can handle thicker knives I won't bother. Thanks.

https://youtu.be/7ubkV74CqvE

This is a link to Vadim's video on paste and paper wheels

I don't think it would. The diamonds would just fall off or be scraped off as soon as you used the wheel. The paste soaks into the paper and holds the diamonds on somehow. By all means try it but I think it will fail.

Forgot to say, pertinent to another post of yours. You will need to de-clog the slots in the wheels after applying the paste. A bit of wire or thick cotton thread will do it. I'm pretty certain that Vadim had a video dedicated to this very topic.

I think for paper wheels Vadim would recommend diamond paste. I think oil based? If you have access to eBay and search diamond honing pastes there is a company that sells a whole range, certainly the micron sizes you are looking for. Rub the paste into the wheel and leave to set overnight and you should be good to go.

You can buy a bulldog clip fridge magnet and a 100g weight. Attach the weight to the magnet. Then clip it to the test line and let it hang before tightening. Easy and takes out any inconsistencies or fiddliness.

With respect to everyone posting on this subject. Smurf's has offered a solution to those having problems with determining constants to input into software requiring them to get data to find grinding angles. Hence it doesn't matter what technique one uses. I have invested in Knifegrinders software and I want to make it work, for whatever reasons. Bar to stone measurements does not work for me to the level of sharpness I want. It is unhelpful for those who want to make this work to suggest to 'just use bar to stone ' or 'stop getting hung up on accuracy, to the nearest mm is ok and most of my customers can't tell the difference between 110 Bess and 50 Bess so stop worrying'
This is about making information available to users so they can make their own conclusions and implement them as they see fit to their requirements. So I say thank you Smurfs for responding to a cry for help and coming up with a solution. Which is surely what this forum is about?

This is so helpful to anyone trying to set up a Wootz inspired set up and invested in his software for calculating deburring angles. It eliminates the difficulty of trying to determine those constants by hand and eye with the doubt about perpendicularity of stands. Thank you Smurfs for this innovation. This could be groundbreaking.

A further qualification to the above. If you are wondering about accuracy, Vadim himself told me that his aim was to get to within a tenth of a mm of accuracy on the vertical and horizontal constant measurements to make the software work. It's difficult to achieve in a non engineering workshop environment. Again, any help or suggestions to help with this would, I'm sure, be hugely appreciated by anyone trying to implement this system.

As a slight diversion. However you decide to proceed with your stands a word of caution. Your stands must be perpendicular to the surface your grinder is mounted on. If not your constant horizontal measurement will vary as you raise or lower the support bar and whatever software you use to determine angle will be inaccurate. Another way to consider this: using Vadim's set up method for your slow speed grinder relies on that horizontal measurement to be constant at base level ( recommended 125mm I believe). If your stand is not perpendicular then up at the support bar level it will be out of alignment. Taking an accurate horizontal measurement is EXTREMELY difficult at the top end. The problem being is that even following Vadim's set up procedure with his stands ( which are truly square) fixing them to a work surface throws out the square by tightening the fixings. 300mm above this causes problems. Ie 0.5 mm discrepancy at base level is exaggerated 300mm above that. If anyone knows how to overcome this it would be truly helpful for everyone who has problems with set up for this system of burr removal. Sadly Vadim is no longer here to guide us through this.

Thanks for that Rick. Much appreciated.
I am assuming this process is a one size fits all and that any raise of the honing angle is at the felt wheel stage, the degree being dependent on the type of knife steel/ burr?

Hi. I know this is not strictly a Tormek question but it is connected sufficiently to warrant the question I hope.
For a while now I have been setting up and trying to use paper wheels on a slow grinder to remove burrs. All this with information from Vadim's book, Knifegrinder equipment and many emails from the man himself when I had questions. Obviously that route is now closed ( can't tell you how shocked and upset I was to hear of his death). Without his advice I feel a bit lost. I have had mixed results and whilst I don't aspire to duplicate Vadim's results exactly as described in his sharpening protocols, I am not getting any where near and getting very confused.
To cut to the chase, is there anyone out there who has gone through this process successfully and is happy to share knowledge and experience?
I understand it's not strictly Tormek ( even though a T8 is used to set edges and deroot burrs with a felt wheel) but maybe someone would be willing to give a contact email address so correspondence could occur outside of the forum?
I would so much appreciate any help I can get. Thanks.

Ok. Thanks for your replies. I'll see what happens. Was thinking it may be the way to go on unidentifiable lower end knives where going through a series of runs to determine best protocol would become redundant. I'll see if I can get it below 100.

Apologies if this has already been covered but was wondering if anyone has used this honing wheel in the way set out by Vadim in the knifegrinders video for lower end knives.? IE: setting the edge on a 400 grit CBN wheel. Honing at exact angle on the composite wheel then cleaning up at exact angle on chromium oxide on a leather wheel. If anyone has I would be interested to know what results this gives with Bess scores. From memory Vadim was getting scores of 70 or so as outlined in the appendix to his book. Thanks.