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Here (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_LojTisBF6KcovdYOViW8rlrsONOxy7l) are a few pictures so you can see how tiny these are. There's a good instructional video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGg_EwRToLU) that shows how the front face gets cut to a specific angle and the back two edges (the heel) are done to whatever angle is preferred for the user. It allows for smooth, guided cuts into metal.

those engraved burins, they are made of very hard steels with cobalt alloy or tungsten carbide, I initially sharpened them by hand at an angle controlled with diamond stone and then finished with the translucent hard arkansas "novaculite stone".
those tools are very hard, I think that tormek would be ideal for that precision work but definitely with stone BGxxx carborundum or a diamond wheel
the stone SGxxx would not be an optimal option.

good post Fernando !

thanks a lot.

I think that this image can be useful for future references of knives, including the Germany knives.

Fernando.

I would not recommend purchasing an SB at this time. Let the new diamond wheels actually come into use for a while and see how they compare with the SB.Tormek has not released any videos about the new wheels, and the coverage in the handbook is minimal. This is a big devision; we need better information.


Ken

am totally agree with you Ken

now I just bought the accessory RB-180 Rotating Base, "and" some PA-70 Honing Compound to have reserve.
I should arrive tomorrow,

Year ago a client sharpened a knife with SG-250. he complained that nothing happened and there is probably something wrong with the stone.
I asked him to come in with the stone and knife.
When he pulled out the knife it was ceramic knife. So I put it on my T-8 with the SB-250 and it sharpened it perfectly.
Client went home with a new SB-250 stone

How is your experience with the SB and ceramic?

I do not have the SB-250 so I do not know how the results are, but in the commercial videos of Tormek, they make it clear that the SB-250 is useful for sharpening ceramic knives, for now I have to extract the juice from the SG-250 and gather money to get the SB-250 or a diamond one,
The truth is I always have the dilemma of what would be the next stone I should buy, to have the best cost - benefit, if the SB-250, the diamond, or the SJ-250 to achieve those polished edges.
I want the SJ-250 more for pleasure than for necessity, I think, although I also think that with that stone I can sharpen the scissors of a stylist that generates good money, but at the same time I want a stone that can be used with any work including the ceramic knives , although these knives almost do not reach me to be sharpened.

It is a difficult decision

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Re: Motor Shutting Down
« Reply #9 on: Today at 02:03:07 am »
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Here is an idea to test the power. Plug your Tormek into a three way adaptor. Plug a digital clock into one of the three plugs. (Do not install a battery in the clock.) If the Tormek shuts down and the clock starts flashing, your trouble is in the electric power. If the Tormek shuts down and the clock is unchanged, the culprit wiuld appear to be the Tormek.

Ken

Thanks for the data Ken.
I'm going to find a watch of these to do the test.

The ceramic knives also come in different qualities, one of them has been sharpened recently with the SG-250 that comes from the factory,
I know it's not the best option
I know that it is not optimal
But I still wanted to prove that just in one document I saw that even the aluminum oxide could attack the zirconium oxide, and they were absolutely right, even though it took a lot longer than with a conventional knife and that the knife did not have any defects in the edge, just needed to be retouched, sharpen it to 15 degrees per face, and I could return the edge, I usually do it by hand with a manual machine controlled angle and diamond stone to 1500 grain, but I'm glad to know that the SG-250 could with the task although I have clear that it is not the best option, also pass it through the leather wheel with the polishing compound of tormek, for a while, and also notice difference, the knife finally managed to recover the edge, is not a 10, but I definitely achieve a score of 8.5 cuts the paper very well, without effort.

This was just an experiment, I told myself, SG-250 is not designed for this task, but I did not want anyone to tell me, I just wanted to verify what could be achieved with this stone.
PS: it was not a kyocera, but I think that with the hardness of the ceramic 25 degrees per side is a lot, I sharpen them to 15 degrees with very good results.

I share an image.

The answer was:

That sounds strange. Our motors have a heat protection circuit. But it should not be cut out at this short time of use. When we do our heat testing the motors takes about 1.5 -2 hrs before reaching maximum temperature. At maximum temp the motors will stay there for several hours without any problems.
Please know that the engine has free flow of air from the side and bottom of the housing. If it stops again pleas let me know.

In conclusion, I will return to work with the machine, and if it happens again, I will try to get more information, a video to measure the engine temperature at least superficial, show that the switch does not operate when it is turned off, voltage of the house etc. so that Tormek can give me more information.

I  do not dispute Jan's expertise with electric motors. However, the motor in the T8 is an industrial motor rated for continuous duty. I cannot imagine a 26° C day causing a properly working Tormek to fail or a failure caused by running only part of a day.

I am not ruling non Tormek related problems such as low voltage. I do believe that we need the expertise of Tormek support. Whether or not the problem is Tormek related, it should be properly investigated, including a thorough inspection of Fernando's T8 by The Tormek experts.

Ken

I agree with you, we must rule out any problem, and send mail to tormek support.
The other problem as i mention it, is that i'm in Colombia, tormek has no support in my country

Fernando, motor overheating was already discussed on this forum. Very surprising fact is, that an idle running motor is producing more heat, than the same motor during sharpening.

It is common misconception that a Permanent-Split Capacitor motor running below its full load will run cooler and more efficiently. On the contrary, single-phase motors may become very warm at small loads or when run idle.

Why is it so? The efficiency of an idle running PSC motor drops to zero, and hence all the consumed electric power is converted to heat power. Whereas, near full load rating, the motor efficiency is greatest. The consumed power is partitioned into shaft power and the heat power. It may happen that an idle running motor generates more heat than the same motor running at full load. 

Jan

I understand the overheating, but I'm worried that the machine will turn off when I finally manage to have a large volume of knives to sharpen and have to finish sharpening by hand, when I have an excellent machine but dead.

I just sent mail, I'll wait for an answer to know how to proceed.

My tormek T-8 went out.

The scare of the year
I have a relatively new tormek, bought more than half a year ago and with very little use, a week ago I had a good job with a restaurant to sharpen all their knives, but something happened that left me worried ... and I really do not know what the cause may be, and I want to first go to the forum to find out if anyone else has happened.

That weekend I was sharpening very normal "tramontina brand" professional kitchen knives here, my city that day had a temperature of 26 °C and after 1 and a half hours of work my T-8 machine went off by itself, I really thought worst.
I turned it off and disconnected it from the power, I checked it and I noticed that it was very hot, but the work I did was the typical sharpening of knives without effort or pressure.

I waited about 15 minutes and the machine continued not to turn on, in conclusion, I put a fan on the side of the leather wheel and finished sharpening my knives by hand, worried and at the same time annoyed by what happened.
After a couple of hours I turned the machine back on and went back to operating, but I decided to turn it off and stop working with it that day and until today I have not used it again until I was sure what happened.

I worked very quiet because when I buy my T-8 one of the reasons to buy it is because of its "Motor duty Continuous" feature.
but since I do not live in a country where Tormek has support, I really do not know what options I have to verify that it was normal. I know that the machine could be shut down for security, but correct me if I'm wrong, this should not happen even with twice as much work time

Now I have the feeling of not being able to use my equipment for more than an hour and a half for fear that the next one will be a permanent failure.
I do not know if I'm doing something wrong.

I remain attentive to your opinions and comments

An interesting idea, it can even be useful to check the inclination of the knife when the curved tip is sharpened.
I think your idea is good and it can be improved even more, I think that if you can somehow make the lamp stay fixed to the tormek you avoid that when moving the machine we should recalibrate everything.

Tormek posted a new "training" video...

https://www.facebook.com/134394693288790/videos/1802452506482992/
or
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bk45me1gWH2/

 

Since there's not a "mani-pedi" forum section, I put it under "Hand Tools"

I also saw it, I just hope that my wife does not take it seriously, I can stay without sharpener

Hello ! I am french and my english is not perfect
I am a total fan of good knives and I have a little collection.
Many outdoor knives in 1095 steel, and many folders in s30v,s90v,s110v,m390,cts-204p and 20cv.

I have a worksharp ken onion edition, it works great for my outdoor knives, but for sharpening my folders, it is extremly hard to not break the tip of the knives... All of my folders worth about 200-500€, so I am really disapointed when I fail a knife tip...
So I would like to know in the first time if we can sharpen those steels with the original wheel of the Tormek and finish with the japanese one, and in a second time, if we can have a great tip on our knives. On the tormek website we can read that a japanese water stone can mirror finish a knife.
If someone could post a picture of one knife with mirror finish with the SJ stone ?
If someone have an experience with the Tormek and the worksharp for a comparison ?

Thanks a lot for helping me. Stay sharp

My personal opinion, is that the wheel that I brought from the tormek factory is not the best option or is not an optimal option to sharpen that type of steels, the steels s30v, s90v, m390 including the S35VN are very hard steels, easily surpass the 60HRC of hardness, I have sharpened those knives with diamond stones, currently tormek has available the diamond wheels, with which you can sharpen without problems these steels, and for the tip of the knife do not worry, with tormek the tip of your knives will remain great

What I am very sure of is that with the high cost of your knives you will appreciate a good sharpening system like this, as long as you use the correct abrasive wheel for the type of steel to sharpen.