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I have also tested and evaluated the new KS-123 for some time and agree with Dutchman in his views. It is a simple and easy-to-use setting tool that we both had the privilege of influencing the execution of. Think it will become a "must have" tool for anyone working on knife sharpening with a Tormek. Håkan is extremely active in the development of new products and listens more than we think to ideas that we users bring to the forum. I had the privilege of meeting Ken on site at Tormek and can confirm that he has a great deal of experience and a burning interest in the art of sharpening tools in all different ways, and he is also a very nice man to be around. Continue to lead us in the jungle of knowledge.

I think all of you who wanted to buy my tool will be glad I didn't sell you one now that you can buy a similar "better" Tormek original tool instead.

I'm glad you got to provide input on their original design.

I purchased my T8 in 2022 and has ran great until a couple weeks ago when it started making a squeaking noise when turned on. It only does it for a second or so then goes away. I took the shaft off and cleaned it and put a little white lithium grease on each side of the shaft. The squeaking went away for a day or two but now it's back. Any idea what could be causing this?



Thanks

The motor's shaft may be slipping on the rubber drive wheel.  You can roughen the drive wheel a bit with some sandpaper, and see if that solves it.  (Also make sure the motor shaft is cleaned off.)

What is the best practice to try and ensure the KJ-45 (or similar) is holding the blade level?  In other words so that for the most part the blade is perfectly horizontal.  Do people use a guide or jig?  Just eyeball it?

Sorry, not entirely sure what you mean. If you mean parallel to the surface of the wheel then the contact with the wheel does that. In addition if the water is flowing evenly over the knife then it is contact the whole way across.
If you mean at right angles to the edge of the wheel then that is not really as critical so just eyeball it as you say.

I think you understood it better than I did... 

Yeah, if you mean level across the stone... watch how the water flows over the knife.

1) As a practical matter what is the maximum height of the USB to the top of the machine?  Based on some of the calculators it looks unlikely it would exceed 200mm but I am looking for real world correlation.

2) What is the best practice to try and ensure the KJ-45 (or similar) is holding the blade level?  In other words so that for the most part the blade is perfectly horizontal.  Do people use a guide or jig?  Just eyeball it?

1) Depends on the machine and which USB you have, but on a T-8 with the standard USB, you're pushing the limit at around 180mm on the vertical side.

2) Pinch the clamp closed so it "forms" around the knife, then loosely tighten the front screw, then the back one till it holds the blade in place.  That should keep it centered and straight with the clamp.

I'm not a BESS fan... but according to this post, a 13-15 dps edge should be able to achieve a lower score.

Personally, I think BESS use is subjective, and it could just as easily be something in your testing technique, as it is in the sharpening.  I'd look at other factors... like, for example, what you wrote earlier, in how it performs in actual use.

If it is in the sharpening, one thing you might try, instead of changing the sharpening angle, adjust the honing angle a bit higher, and see if makes a difference.

Hi,

I'm not sure I got it right but from what I can see in the video, One jaw (the one with the threaded cylinder) is fixed relative to the shaft of the jig, while the other (the "shorter" one) moves. so it would seem that it negates the advantage of the KJ over the KVM, namely to have symmetrical clamping. But maybe I'm wrong.
...

Pretty sure you're right, which is why (paraphrasing) "centering doesn't matter" is repeated.  Basically, just remaking an SVM jig from KJ parts.

...
Problems with the SVM-45  KJ-45
1.      It's not adjustable, you can't make micro adjustments easily, rendering the wood block technique less useful.
2.   Tool rest handle is too small, long blades pull the knife towards you.
3.   Occasionally you inadvertently use the "short stop" without realizing.
4.   The self-centering aspect is generally solving a low priority problem – we've never-ever had a customer complain about it.
5.   Plastic shaft is not as sturdy as it needs to be.
6.   Smaller torque screw is hard to get tight.

Problems with the KJ-45  SVM-45
1.   Shaft is slightly too short to accommodate very short blades without adjusting tool rest height.
2.   Plastic tool-rest wears out, we wrap electrical tape around the treads to establish tension... after three years it is now stripped.
3.   Not "centered" – though we have not found this to be a real problem.
4.   It's no longer being produced (boo!)
...

I think you had this mislabeled?

I just use my finger to smear it.

The difference is I try to embed it into the leather a bit.

For quite some time now, I just occasionally  "charge" my honing wheel with paste, rubbing it in with a toothbrush.  Works for several sessions (depending on volume of course.)

My teeth look great too.... 

A question arises. Why do the Victory brand fish filleting knives use a softer steel? Is it to make sharpening on-the-go easier? Do they sacrifice hardness so they can get improved ease of sharpening, improved ability to stay sharp, improved ability to resist staining?

I'm gonna go with co$t.

I did read your post and replied to you with thanks. I have just re-done some of them just using and OLD/WORN [205mm] sg 250 for the rough cut and then used a newer sg250 [248mm] for the smooth cut. WOW! So much better and easier! So thank you again, cbwx34, Ken S, and Sir Amwell for all the help and advice.
Regards
Dan

Thanks... I was actually just razzin' Ken. 

...
I did an online srarch on how hard are Victory knives:
...

You could have just read my post.     

(But at least we agreed.)   

Hi, I sharpen ALOT of 'VICTORY' brand fish filleting knives made in New Zealand. Mostly with thin 25cm blades. I was having fair results with the standard SG wheel, however since changing over to CBN wheels I am having trouble raising a bur. The steel is quite hard, or so it seems. Does anybody have any thoughts on maybe changing my technique or any other suggestions? The new CBN wheels work great on all the other knives I do for people. I am far from being an expert or a beginner,[ been sharpening for nearly 3 years now] so my technique is pretty well sorted.
 Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Dan, Norfolk Island, South Pacific

I think it may be the opposite of "quite hard"... their Catalogue says "The stainless steel blade hardness is 54-55 HRC".  CBN wheels reportedly don't work well on softer steels.  For example:

Limited Application: While excellent for hard materials, CBN may not be the best choice for softer materials, where conventional abrasives might suffice.

(It's also mentioned on Rich Colvin's website.)

I decided to get T-8 black.

Please recommend online store (or a local store around Raleigh NC), where I should order it. I know the price is everywhere the same, but I hope you have preferred stores where maybe I can get better support, etc. I looked at Amazon and there are two sellers: Hartville hardware and Yellowhammer tool works.
...

It looks like you have a local Woodcraft store and another one called Rockler... you might check there.

Hi all. New here and to the Tormek world. I'm sore these types of questions have been asked before but I was hoping for some direct advice.

Today I picked up a T-3 with some nice accessories for a good deal. Could easily make money selling it. I don't turn and it came with a TNT-808 turning kit which I'll likely sell.

What's the difference between this and a T-4 or T-8?  Wheels smaller? 

Wondering if I should invest in this T-3 or hold out for a different model.

I'd like to use this mainly for planer blade and chisels. Was hoping to located a cheap rough shaping wheel to remove defects/material. Heard about sourcing from China made sharpeners.

Thanks! 

If you can sell the T-3 for a profit, and invest that money into a T-4 or T-8, that is the route I would take.  The T-3 had issues with the "plastic" casing, for example, it was from a Tormek rep that...

T-3 had a plastic housing witch was not as stable (compared to the T-4) with its vertical and horizontal sleeves.

... the result being that the T-4 is advertised as "Precision improved 300%".

There's also an issue with heat and the casing, so the 30 min. "duty cycle" applies to the T-3, which was eliminated with the T-4's zinc casing.

Sizewise, the T-3 and T-4 are the same, the main (and important) difference is the change in casing.  The T-8 is a larger model.

I'd only keep the T-3 if you only plan on using it for light work.

p.s.  I don't think registering your Tormek gives you access to the manual yet, (the link was broken in the website update), but you can access it HERE

... A working app for the iPhone would be great!!!

-DON-

The Calcapp Calculators work on the iPhone.