Messages

Hi,
  With regard to most comments above, I would just like to mention that the actual sharpening of the blade edge is only one part of the process.  Deburring and honing is the other half of the process which is very often overlooked, or seldom talked about, in the videos (even the Tormek Videos) ...BUT is very important.

  After sharpening, before deburring or honing, I look at the blade edge through a digital microscope and then proceed with the deburring/honing process.  I find that using the digital microscope really illustrates what exactly needs to be done to complete the process.  Note: you can find digital microscopes priced from $30 to $200 and is well worth the expense.  Good Luck with your new T4 it's a great product!

 Remember when you use different 250-200MM wheels (Diamond, CBN, Leather, Felt, Paper) your toolbar has to adjusted, every time you change wheels. People sometime use 4 different grit wheels & 4 different micron applied-leather, felt, wheels. Even if the wheels are 250 & 200MM they are not true. They all have to be measured. This could be very time consuming.       
The most important part is how you use Bess tester. You must move the knife very slow when cutting the line..                                                                                                                                                               As you move the knife very slow , you can watch the numbers increase as the line is cut. If you do not see the numbers increase slowly, you are not using Bess tester correctly.

can sharp-Get yourself a Goniometer from Gritomatic, and learn how to use it well. Lots of luck.

Hi Ken: It takes me over an hour, to sharpen a quality steel knife, for low Bess numbers. I have 2 tormek T8s, many leather honing wheels, 10" felt wheels for deburring, & high speed 10" paper wheel system, for deburring. To think you can sharpen quickly is wrong. It takes time to set up for grinding and time for FVB (honing & deburring). This process is not for making money. Hope this helps. 

Hi Rich
I have 5 Bark River Knives, two of witch I have ground regular 15 degree edge. Bark River calls for convex edges on there knives. I know that there are hand sharpening systems that can grind convex edges. I was just wondering if Tormek guys had a devise or a process.

I have a question, has any one come up with a jig or a devise to grind convex edges, with a Tormek?

Kingsley North Lapidary, sells an extender fluid, to apply on leather honing wheels to extend life of diamond products.

There are knives where the blade is ground convex [camping,hunting,bushcraft,] then there are knife blades that are ground with turns & curves. Are we talking about [camping ,hunting, bushcraft],or turns & curves?

Hannsi:
Great advise.

Josu
My bad, typo error. Thanks for your reply.

I have a question, anyone have experience sharping ultra premium steels? Like Maxamet, S110V, S90V, Elmax. Are CBM wheels good, or are Diamond wheels better?

After oiling leather wheel, I use extender fluid from Kingsley, Lapindery Equipment. This extender fluid is made to be used with diamond compounds. LOL

Is not the angle, for honing & deburring, depending on the (type) of knife steel?