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It does not matter to me if there is ever a "buy or sell" spot on the forum. While there are indeed dealers that Tormek wants to protect none of them sell used equipment. Someone looking for used and likely less costly is not going to buy from a Tormek dealer anyway. I don't think it likely to endanger their sales if used equipment is sold. Furthermore noone except an authorized Tormek dealer is going to have access to brand new Tormek products on the wholesale level. So even if someone had a new in the box Tormek, they bought it at retail and are unlikely to resell at retail so once again not endangering retails sales. If any dealers wanted to sell their Tormek  products this forum would be the ideal place for them to do that.

My two cents is that if it is a Tormek that is wanted or being sold, why not? They pay for it and it is still their product so it only further promotes their product.

   On the subject of buying a used Tormek. It is going to be hard to find a good deal on a used model. Some reasons are the initial high cost of the Tormek and second the cost of shipping the item. It is going to cost an arm and a leg to ship it and someone has to pay.
    This is the way I would approach it if I were in the market. Take the cost of the used Tormek with included accessories and subtract that from the cost of a T8 with the exact same accessories. Determine that you actually need the accessories as well. Some things you must buy or already have like a stone grader and a stone truer. Some things like a stainless shaft and EZ lock are not required only useful. You take the used item "package" and subtract its cost from the new item package. Is the difference worth not having a warranty as your used item most likely will not have a warranty. On the other hand, all you are dealing with is an electric motor that has never ran at high speed in its life. Anything can fail but these are some of the least stressed motors out there. I say all that to say that the warranty is seldom needed on a Tormek. So, if the difference is say $100 between a used Supergrind or T2000 I would buy the new one. If it goes much over that then a line by line cost assessment is needed. How much stone is left on the old model is a large factor as well. Jeff Farris the former marketer said that 200 mm is about the end of life on a stone for the T8 or similar.
     If I could save $350 or thereabouts on the exact same package with 230 mm of stone, I would buy the used model. I would not pay over $400 for the used one though based on a new one for $729 on Amazon. That is me based  on minimal usage of the Tormek. I have the original stone after more than 12 years of occasional use. That would be from a trusted source as well.

You do not need more than one Tormek. Having more than one looks good on paper until you sharpen at different degrees for different knives and tools. Then you have to reset all three. I thought your idea was a good one so I bought a second Tormek to have a Japanese stone permanently mounted. This would work if you free handed your tools as there is no set up for angles. This would work anytime you did not set up for specific angles on your tools. Free handing does not require the USB ( universal support bar) to be used so no jigs are attached to it. In short unless you require three or more different graded stones every time you sharpen, you do not need more than one Tormek. Consider the angles as well. A chisel would likely not be set up like a knife. Further, the steel used is another consideration as some of the stones work better for some materials than they do others. There are probably numerous other reasons not to set up three Tormeks for the same knife or tool. Only if you need a different stone a lot of the time or a different sharpening angle a lot of the time like if you are in business sharpening tools would your idea be a good one.

Me thinks he doth jest. Seriously though, are you serious?

Check out this test of corrosion inhibitors on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyWHF4NoNVk

Yeah, I didn't mean "dummies" as in stupid but rather as in untrained.

I would say then that the T2 is a knife sharpener for "Dummies". In other words a device made so simple that anyone can use it. It is used dry to keep it that much simpler. As you know, someone would forget to put water in the trough and someone else would spill it. I wonder then, if the special jig fits the other Tormeks?

Is this dedicated knife sharpener better than, the same as or what compared to the multi talented Tormeks when sharpening a knife? I know it has diamond stones but that doesn't make it better to me. I mean as in symmetry of edge angle, ease of following a curving blade and access to the honing wheel.

You aren't missing anything. I have the Japanese stone though not of Tormek manufacture. They do little more than polish an edge like the honing wheel. They will polish an edge and may produce a sharper edge but not one that is notably sharper than the honing wheel after a good sharpening using a finely graded SG 250. I do not have access to BESS equipment so I have never done a test on this.

I think it comes down to what you are going to sharpen. If all you want to sharpen is knives, then there are better cheaper options. I bought mine to sharpen only knives and it does a great job. The rub is that you have to set an angle and fill a water trough and if you don't have a dedicated place for this you have to move a heavy Tormek. If the knife blade is longer than about six inches, you have to fight the grinding wheel when trying to hone the edge. If you are just going to sharpen knives and nothing else, don't get a Tormek. On the other hand, the Tormek is most likely the best choice for everything else in a "one machine to do everything" format. I have used it on chisels and it excels there. Like I said, it will sharpen a knife exceptionally well but the set up is a pain and the cost is not worth it.

Ken, I am on a lot of lists but was not on that one. Please do not spend the postage on one sending it to me. It looks simple enough even for me!

All this time and I never knew the Kenjig was that little piece of board. Thanx I saved as Kenjig and put in "my documents".

Did you have the sharp edge turning into the honing wheel and cut it? If that is what happened and you have a piece sticking up that "bumps" your edge here is my suggestion. Pry up the offending bump and slice it off. This will leave a small hole, depending on how much you gouged it. If you have the wheel turning away from the edge being sharpened as you should, you might not even notice it as the edge will glide over the hole. Of course if you cut the wheel all the way across this won't work. Then you have to try and glue it down and it will still likely have a hump that will bump.