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It seems to me that if you use multiple machines with their own attachments and IF you could adjust them to all the same angle, then you would be more productive. Not sharper or less sharp, just able to do the same thing faster. This would be an advantage in a business and a luxury for home use. But even then, it is only advantageous in duplicating not for one offs. If you are going to do a dozen knives for a restaurant then it is a good idea. If you are going to do a dozen knives for a dozen people with different specifications, then it might be less than worthless. Even for the dozen knives for the same restaurant, how many times are you going to do their knives? You can't tie up your machine (s) for that once a year job, can you? You are not likely to ever replicate your settings but who would ever know except you? I would not do it.

I am not a professional sharpener but what has the use of multiple machines got to do with an increase in sharpness? No matter how many machines are used, the edge will not be sharper than the final stones grit and length of time ground on that grit. Along with the finishing touches of honing etc.

jeffs55 Ken and thanks for remembering some of my wisdom. I can't claim it as original though. I want to think it was Jeff Cooper but am not sure.

Gosh, I never thought about it. I go from heel to tip and then start over. Heel to tip, heel to tip. I don't see how it would matter though.

Sharpen with the wheel turning away from the knife edge and it will not catch. The sharpening action is less aggressive and will take longer but it will not catch the edge.  Keep the stone trued and graded. Do not let it glaze over, use the corner of the stone grader to rough it up if you need to. You need a rough stone to grind with. I don't mean the roughness caused by the stone grader that makes the stone like 200 grit but I mean a fresh surface. As you sharpen the stone clogs with metal shavings. Keep it clean by grading and or truing. The truing will not be done constantly but the grading can be done more than once per edge being sharpened.

I never thought I would say this but if you are perfectly happy with the T3 and its time of use restrictioins, get a T4. The T3 was never built for continuous use and had a 30 minute or less time limit on continuous use. This was based on the fact that it had a plastic frame. The T4 has a metal frame and although it is not continuous duty rated like a T8, it does not have the limitations of the T3. The T3 retails for $415 on Amazon and the T8 $729 both are the basic set up. If it was me, I would get the T8 as I try to never get less of something. Check out my motto, "you can use less of more but you cannot make more of less". ONLY if you are completely happy with the T3 would I even suggest the T4 but if you are, then there is a $314 difference that will buy you a couple of T4 stones down the road. Oh yeah, that edge problem likely stems from a well used stone that needs truing or either you are not moving the blade nearly enough across the stone as it turns. Even a used stone out of round should produce a straight edge if you constantly move the blade across the stone, not the concavity that you are showing.

A couple of things to consider and or try to make your Tormek work. First you might have a 240 volt outlet installed and then you could power other devices of this type. Depending on where your breaker box is this might run $150-$200. That is way cheaper than new Tormek. In the meantime you might be able to power it from your clothes dryer outlet if you have the proper electrical cord.

If you buy a Festool they will throw in a systainer for free! What you do with the Festool you don't need since you bought it solely for the systainer is up to you. I would suggest you IM me and maybe we can work something out.

I have a Tormek that is over 15 years old and does not have a stainless shaft or ezy lock nut. My shaft is not rusty and I have never had an issue with removing the grind stone. My washer is rusty but I am still using it, it doesn't hurt anything. I empty the water trough after each use and just throw the water out into the yard.

Keep the older Tormek. You can use less of more but you cannot make more of less. You won't get enough money out of the older Tormek to pay for a new T4 anyway. For the occasional user the T4 will do all you need but if it wasn't less of a tool, it wouldn't cost  less.

That video makes me want to use something other than a Tormek and I already have one.

I looked at the Makita and it seems as though it only sharpens straight edges. Would it sharpen a curved knife blade, I don't know? It is not pictured with anything but a straight edge. The Tormek will sharpen curved surfaces such as a gouge or the curve of a knife. The Tormek is then more useful if you ever contemplate sharpening any thing other than a knife, chisel, planer blade or other straight surface. The Tormek is then a multi tasker while the Makita is a one trick pony.

There is a forum user that has these items in stock to help you in your pivoting. http://knifegrinders.com.au/11Shop.htm Scroll down the page till you see "pin pivot collar" but it is very pricey for what it is. As for the honing wheel drying out. Don't be concerned as it will do that and will still hone your edges. If it bothers you, you might add only a smidgen of oil to the wheel. Smidgen = a few regularly spaced drops and allow them to soak into the wheel naturally spreading or you can spread with your fingers. Under no circumstances should you oil too heavily. As for an even grind someone else needs to address that.

Jeff Farris the former importer and or US distributor once said that 200 mm was the limit for a stone on the Supergrind/T2000 which would also apply to your T8. Therefore, according to him you would not be able to use the 200 mm stone you have. Of course you may be able to "just barely" use it. Your best alternative in my opinion is to sell the stone on eBay and buy the correct size. I don't think it would be cost effective to buy a T4 which is what your stone is sized for. Of course the dealer may accept your new stone in trade on the correct one which is your first option and what I would try first.

Water is the only thing you use on a Tormek stone. As far as knife sharpening; you have sharpened several as you mentioned. Did you notice the uneven bevel grind on the blade? If so, are you good with giving that back to a customer? There is no easy way to not have that uneven bevel on a knife blade. The only way is to remove the knife from the jig and turn it over with the jig oriented the same way ie locking knob always up or down.