Vadim has posted to YouTube a video on why felt is best for deburring, as well as what kind, and what density, works best:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5iqnvD8_M2k
strangely enough i have been trying for months to use a felt wheel for this purpose. unfortunately people always assume that i only want to sell the things from my store. but when Vadim says something like that it seems not to be the case. there is no better way to remove your existing burrs. also the shaft extension is a thing that i have been selling for months. in the meantime i do without the Tormekleder completely and use the rockhard felt wheel with a coating of 1 micron diamond spray instead. after that a few passes over a hanging leather with 0,25 micron and your knife can split hairs. but be careful to grind a 1-1,5° higher angle on the felt wheel to remove the burr completely.
cheers Hanns
The use of felt for deburring has been around for a long time... it's not a recent discovery. Only thing new (maybe?) is using it on the Tormek. ;)
Quote from: cbwx34 on October 07, 2020, 09:26:49 PM
The use of felt for deburring has been around for a long time... it's not a recent discovery. Only thing new (maybe?) is using it on the Tormek. ;)
I watched the video and learned that German "rock hard" is closer to flint hard, whereas Chinese "rock hard" is not. I also learned that using anything other than rock hard does not do as good a job on certain steels.
So I learmed a few new things. Your mileage may vary.
Ok Ken I understand.
So to keep it short and sweet.... the statement that a 90g felt wheel only works for hard knives is wrong.
I do not want to appear to be taking sides; however, I do not want to see this kind of argumentative posting on the forum. The various vendors all have websites and you tube channels. Please confine this kind of post to those sites and keep our forum civil and non commercial. As moderator, I dislike deleting posts or topics; however, if necessary, I will do so.
Ken
Why not go to diamond-hard felt?
Hi Louiesdad,
The answer to your question is explained thoroughly in the video...
Diamond hard wheels have flex in them also, so the explanation in that video, needs further refinement in order to exclude USA made diamond-hard wheels.
Some hard are others med, some rock hard are others flint hard, some rock hard are others hard.
Perhaps his overseas' manufacturer does not offer diamond hard.
I was going to post this in an old thread from 2015 but the forum suggested I create a new thread, as it concerns using the felt wheel for deburring I hope this is ok to post here, if not then please let me know Ken. The old thread was SJ vs Paper.
I own the SJ and the felt but I have yet to use the latter. I have only used the SJ on my non kitchen knives so far but after watching the vids on felt I am now wondering if we would get a similar result using the SJ at the stage in the video were Vadim switched to paper, IE as a final pass. Forget about what is "good enough" for a second and also discount operator skill variables, If SJ has been compared to paper all be it not quite as good would this be good practice?
1: sharpen.
2: de burr on Tormek leather at original angle using FVB.
3: remove wire/feather edge with felt at 1.6-2.4 higher angle depending on knife quality as shown in the video.
4: a couple of quick passes on the SJ at original angle.
I would just go ahead and try this method but I have no way to prove its effectiveness until I can afford a BESS. What am I saying, of course I will now do this unless those with way more experience than me tell me im wasting my time, it would just be nice to here some others opinions either way. I guess I should say my knives may not even warrant the attention to detail, I have read on here that Global knives aren't very hard so if they are no good then my other knives probably dont deserve the felt wheel at all?
Kitchen collection:
A few p sabatier le vrai gourmet that were gifts from my mum many moons ago, no steel markings so probably not worth the effort.
A few Globals because I loved the look and didnt know what a good Japanese knife was.
A large F. Dick, 2385.26
A few Donald Russell knives, again gifts from me mum but I think she did ok here as they say 1.4116-X50 Cr Mo V15.
Alan. (should this be a new thread?)
Quote from: ABall on December 29, 2020, 03:50:48 PM
I was going to post this in an old thread from 2015 but the forum suggested I create a new thread, as it concerns using the felt wheel for deburring I hope this is ok to post here, if not then please let me know Ken. The old thread was SJ vs Paper.
I own the SJ and the felt but I have yet to use the latter. I have only used the SJ on my non kitchen knives so far but after watching the vids on felt I am now wondering if we would get a similar result using the SJ at the stage in the video were Vadim switched to paper, IE as a final pass. Forget about what is "good enough" for a second and also discount operator skill variables, If SJ has been compared to paper all be it not quite as good would this be good practice?
1: sharpen.
2: de burr on Tormek leather at original angle using FVB.
3: remove wire/feather edge with felt at 1.6-2.4 higher angle depending on knife quality as shown in the video.
4: a couple of quick passes on the SJ at original angle.
Not a route I would take... you'll most likely create a new burr (albeit a small one), switching back to the SJ wheel. IMO, the SJ and paper wheel don't work the same. Also, in one of the Tormek videos, they comment that they can improve the edge with a couple of passes on the leather wheel, after the SJ wheel.
Even though the SJ leaves a very fine edge, that you could use... other steps are more effective at removing the final burr.
Not a route I would take... you'll most likely create a new burr (albeit a small one), switching back to the SJ wheel. IMO, the SJ and paper wheel don't work the same. Also, in one of the Tormek videos, they comment that they can improve the edge with a couple of passes on the leather wheel, after the SJ wheel.
Even though the SJ leaves a very fine edge, that you could use... other steps are more effective at removing the final burr.
Thanks for that insight, has Tormek produced evidence of improving the edge with the leather wheel after the SJ? I know Vadim showed without a shadow of doubt that using the felt wheel after the leather wheel was a big improvement and that the paper wheel after that produced a BESS score of 52, so maybe you are saying the SJ isn't needed if you have a felt wheel? Maybe it's best to apex on the SJ then leather then felt?
Hi ABall
I agree with cbwx34 - it seems a step backwards to me to go to the SJ after felt. From my own experience I consider that after achieving the apex there's a fork in the road. Down one path is a very aesthetically beautiful edge created by ending with the SJ (and very sharp). Or down the other route, which I chose more often, is ending with felt. Not as attractive an edge, but definitely sharper than the SJ.
In BESS terms, my personal best with the SJ is somewhere around 90, vs 47 via felt. But when I sharpen for other people they ALWAYS prefer the SJ finish.
Cheers,
Brad
Quote from: BradGE on December 29, 2020, 11:38:05 PM
Hi ABall
I agree with cbwx34 - it seems a step backwards to me to go to the SJ after felt. From my own experience I consider that after achieving the apex there's a fork in the road. Down one path is a very aesthetically beautiful edge created by ending with the SJ (and very sharp). Or down the other route, which I chose more often, is ending with felt. Not as attractive an edge, but definitely sharper than the SJ.
In BESS terms, my personal best with the SJ is somewhere around 90, vs 47 via felt. But when I sharpen for other people they ALWAYS prefer the SJ finish.
Cheers,
Brad
Hmm, have you tried to have your cake and eat it? I too love the finish from the SJ but why not use the felt after that? I would be interested in your scores if you have already dismissed this method Brad.
Quote from: ABall on December 29, 2020, 11:42:20 PM
Quote from: BradGE on December 29, 2020, 11:38:05 PM
Hi ABall
I agree with cbwx34 - it seems a step backwards to me to go to the SJ after felt. From my own experience I consider that after achieving the apex there's a fork in the road. Down one path is a very aesthetically beautiful edge created by ending with the SJ (and very sharp). Or down the other route, which I chose more often, is ending with felt. Not as attractive an edge, but definitely sharper than the SJ.
In BESS terms, my personal best with the SJ is somewhere around 90, vs 47 via felt. But when I sharpen for other people they ALWAYS prefer the SJ finish.
Cheers,
Brad
Hmm, have you tried to have your cake and eat it? I too love the finish from the SJ but why not use the felt after that? I would be interested in your scores if you have already dismissed this method Brad.
I have to agree with someone here, but I'm not sure which or maybe both ::). I've found the best result, in both appearance and sharpness, with the use of the SJ wheel then rock hard felt with 1µ diamond paste. I have not found that the use of the felt/diamond combo degrades the finish given by the SJ wheel rather the opposite, it improves them.
Rick
I was up till 2am last night changing the bevel on my Enlan EL-01, then i made it look pretty with the SJ and finished it on the felt, I dont know if its any sharper, I must get some ciggy papers. :) The edge looks good under the new Loupe but I guess this is where a BESS tester comes in.... Rick when you say "diamond paste" is that different to the alcohol suspension one? If so what is it?
Quote from: ABall on December 30, 2020, 04:36:22 PM
...snip... Rick when you say "diamond paste" is that different to the alcohol suspension one? If so what is it?
I learned of the diamond paste from Wootz, ala Knife Grinders. It is quite different from the spray, in that it is a past that must be rubbed onto the felt wheels with fingers or a small spatula. It is shown on the Knife Grinders page here (http://knifegrinders.com.au/05Equipment.htm) (way down the page, just above the kangaroo tail strop), but not listed specifically, so I think they do not sell it. I'm not at home at the moment but from memory the logo "THK" is in the label. I found the website here (https://www.thk.hk/online-cart.php?cid=38). Again, working from memory, I think I have 15, 5, 3.5, 1, 0.5 and maybe 0.25µ pastes, but I only ever use the 1µ one.
My honing process is simple, SJ at the sharpened angle then 1µ diamond paste on the rock hard felt wheel, from 0.5 to 2.5° above the angle, depending on the steel. This usually gets me around 100-105 BESS. I'm not after the final 5% of sharpness that some are.
Rick
In 2018 Knife Grinders I recommend using this sequence on Tormek leather wheels:
- leather wheel with Tormek paste composite
- 1 micron composite leather wheel (with angle increment)
- leather wheel with chromium oxide composite + 0.25 micron
using THK diamond pastes (which I still use)
Next, he recommended using the rock hard felt wheel with diamond spray and an alcohol based suspension as you can see on his site, and it's for sale.
Quote from: van on December 30, 2020, 10:01:41 PM
In 2018 Knife Grinders I recommend using this sequence on Tormek leather wheels:
- leather wheel with Tormek paste composite
- 1 micron composite leather wheel (with angle increment)
- leather wheel with chromium oxide composite + 0.25 micron
using THK diamond pastes (which I still use)
Next, he recommended using the rock hard felt wheel with diamond spray and an alcohol based suspension as you can see on his site, and it's for sale.
Van, maybe he owes you some royalties..... ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: RickKrung on December 30, 2020, 09:13:45 PM
Quote from: ABall on December 30, 2020, 04:36:22 PM
...snip... Rick when you say "diamond paste" is that different to the alcohol suspension one? If so what is it?
I learned of the diamond paste from Wootz, ala Knife Grinders. It is quite different from the spray, in that it is a past that must be rubbed onto the felt wheels with fingers or a small spatula. It is shown on the Knife Grinders page here (http://knifegrinders.com.au/05Equipment.htm) (way down the page, just above the kangaroo tail strop), but not listed specifically, so I think they do not sell it. I'm not at home at the moment but from memory the logo "THK" is in the label. I found the website here (https://www.thk.hk/online-cart.php?cid=38). Again, working from memory, I think I have 15, 5, 3.5, 1, 0.5 and maybe 0.25µ pastes, but I only ever use the 1µ one.
My honing process is simple, SJ at the sharpened angle then 1µ diamond paste on the rock hard felt wheel, from 0.5 to 2.5° above the angle, depending on the steel. This usually gets me around 100-105 BESS. I'm not after the final 5% of sharpness that some are.
Rick
Brilliant thanks, I just ordered 2 pots of the 1 micron, 2 dollars shipping to the UK, £13! wow I should look at some of this other stuff they sell, cheap as chips!
;D ;D ;D No, they are in the public domain ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: van on December 30, 2020, 10:01:41 PM
In 2018 Knife Grinders I recommend using this sequence on Tormek leather wheels:
- leather wheel with Tormek paste composite
- 1 micron composite leather wheel (with angle increment)
- leather wheel with chromium oxide composite + 0.25 micron
using THK diamond pastes (which I still use)
Next, he recommended using the rock hard felt wheel with diamond spray and an alcohol based suspension as you can see on his site, and it's for sale.
2018 was about when Vadim first introduced his deburring book, which is now in its 5th edition and many of his recommendations have evolved. I don't recall exactly when it was, but the process I cited and routinely use was the result of recommendations Vadim made directly to me in personal conversation. It is consistent with his current process for certain steels, the ones I typically encounter, including my own. In my process, use of the SJ wheel is comparable to the 3-6µ honing substrate step.
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4497.0;attach=5260)
Irrespective of any of this, I adhere to the belief that it is incumbent on each of us to study and evaluate all available information about processes, such as sharpening, evaluate it and decide for ourselves the course that best suits our needs, the converse of which is to blindly follow someone else's dictums.
Rick
Obviously! you always try to learn from those who know more than you. Then everyone makes their own choices and considerations. Everything is constantly evolving, in every sector.
I think we can all agree felt is the way to go if you want to completely remove the burr/wire edge, certainly for a novice like me anyway. I just sharpened one of my Globals, I didnt bother with grading to 1000grit, just wanted a quick sharp job. I wasnt going to bother with the felt and I thought I had completely removed the burr with the leather honing wheel, the knife felt extremely sharp on my fingers. Then I checked it with the Kingmass and I was surprised to see bits of wire on the edge still, a couple of days ago I would of stopped there but I thought, to hell with it lets see if the felt does the job..... I tried on 1.6 higher, still a little wire, 2.4 higher and bingo, completely clean along the full length. I will probably adopt this for all my kitchen knives for now, no need for the SJ or re grading the SG, I think the Felt wheel and little Loupe has given new life to the Tormek!
Alan.
Alan,
When I was reviewing CBN wheels for the forum several years ago (pre diamond wheel days), I tried sharpening a chisel going directly from the 80 grit wheel to the leather honing wheel. The result surprised me. BESS was not bad, somewhere in the high 100s as I vaguely recall. The scratch pattern left on the bevel was not bad, either. As a placebo test, I then sharpened an identical chisel using the traditional three step Tormek technique with the SG-250. The result was noticeably better, both visually and BESS wise, the BESS reading being 100. (My BESS readings were handheld and somewhat primitive.
Since then, I always use the middle, SG graded fine step. It was a good learning experiment. Incidentally, right off the 80 grit wheel alone, a chisel ground with the wheel turning into the edge cut faster, but left a BESS around 450. The chisel with the wheel trailing the edge cut slower, but left a BESS about 100 points better.
Ken
Quote from: Ken S on December 31, 2020, 12:46:53 PM
Alan,
When I was reviewing CBN wheels for the forum several years ago (pre diamond wheel days), I tried sharpening a chisel going directly from the 80 grit wheel to the leather honing wheel. The result surprised me. BESS was not bad, somewhere in the high 100s as I vaguely recall. The scratch pattern left on the bevel was not bad, either. As a placebo test, I then sharpened an identical chisel using the traditional three step Tormek technique with the SG-250. The result was noticeably better, both visually and BESS wise, the BESS reading being 100. (My BESS readings were handheld and somewhat primitive.
Since then, I always use the middle, SG graded fine step. It was a good learning experiment. Incidentally, right off the 80 grit wheel alone, a chisel ground with the wheel turning into the edge cut faster, but left a BESS around 450. The chisel with the wheel trailing the edge cut slower, but left a BESS about 100 points better.
Ken
This morning I read a thread on Bessex that Grepper kindly linked to regarding microscopes, he went into great effort to explain his reason for preferring a toothy grind to a smooth grind. He suggests this isnt the best way for certain tools, IE chisels for one. This is what I have managed to glean from all the experts here so far.
-staying with a lower grit size will yield an edge that rips through soft skin for longer but will not produce the highest BESS score. (note: there is an ideal margin, seems to be between 120-220)
-push tools are exempt from above. (sushi blades etc)
-the leather honing wheel is not the tool for de-rooting, felt is the tool for this.
-if the edge is properly de-rooted it should last as long if not longer so there is no need for a toothy grind, we can have our cake....... (there is no evidence to prove this yet but it makes sense)
De-rooting seems to be a term invented by Vadim and it appears to to be an important step beyond deburring, or is he just trying to sell felt wheels...... (I dont believe he is) Of course their will be people who disagree, maybe they will comment.
Alan
Quote from: van on December 30, 2020, 10:01:41 PM
In 2018 Knife Grinders I recommend using this sequence on Tormek leather wheels:
- leather wheel with Tormek paste composite
- 1 micron composite leather wheel (with angle increment)
- leather wheel with chromium oxide composite + 0.25 micron
using THK diamond pastes (which I still use)
Next, he recommended using the rock hard felt wheel with diamond spray and an alcohol based suspension as you can see on his site, and it's for sale.
While our species has been using and sharpening rocks and tools for hundreds of millenia, the use of felt wheels and diamonds were unknown for the Tormek when I started using the Tormek ten years ago. In that context, i am not surprised that this rapidly evolving technology has changed since 2018. As I write this, I am uncomfortable that I do not feel I fully understand the post. Please do not misinterpret these observations as criticism. I accept that things have changed since 2018, and will hopefully continue to change. I have accepted that my two original Tormek diamond wheels (DWC-200 and DWF-200) are already outdated, as are three of my CBN wheels. I hope the evolution will continue.
Onward and upward.
Ken
To all the rock hard felt people, how much pressure do you use? I have the "proper" RHF and use the 1 micron spray...but for some reason I don't have the kind of results I read about on this forum. I use a very light pressure, basically just the weight of the knife itself. I have BESS tested and usually see a decrease in sharpness. For information I might go from cbn 400 to 1000 and then debur on the 250 mm leather wheel from Hanns. Usually 1 degree higher. At that point I'm happy with the results. BUT if I decide to get sharper on the RGF...it's worse??
Quote from: bgtklbx on January 02, 2021, 02:03:37 AM
To all the rock hard felt people, how much pressure do you use? I have the "proper" RHF and use the 1 micron spray...but for some reason I don't have the kind of results I read about on this forum. I use a very light pressure, basically just the weight of the knife itself. I have BESS tested and usually see a decrease in sharpness. For information I might go from cbn 400 to 1000 and then debur on the 250 mm leather wheel from Hanns. Usually 1 degree higher. At that point I'm happy with the results. BUT if I decide to get sharper on the RGF...it's worse??
Michael,
I'm not clear on your process, so it is hard to comment. I am not familiar with the 250mm leather honing wheel (but it should not be much different than the standard Tormek wheel) and it is not clear what honing compound/grit you are using on it. It is also not clear to me what your process is for using the felt wheel, when you are trying "to get sharper". What compound/grit and what angle settings/control? From your sentence it does sound like you use the 1µ diamond spray on the RKF, but tell us more about that process, please.
Rick
Quote from: bgtklbx on January 02, 2021, 02:03:37 AM
To all the rock hard felt people, how much pressure do you use? I have the "proper" RHF and use the 1 micron spray...but for some reason I don't have the kind of results I read about on this forum. I use a very light pressure, basically just the weight of the knife itself. I have BESS tested and usually see a decrease in sharpness. For information I might go from cbn 400 to 1000 and then debur on the 250 mm leather wheel from Hanns. Usually 1 degree higher. At that point I'm happy with the results. BUT if I decide to get sharper on the RGF...it's worse??
There is evidence found by Knife Grinders that you deburr at exact angle on the leather wheel then increase the angle on the felt wheel, this takes a little trial and error, I've used a microscope and found the final burr only removed by increasing the angle, this depends on a positive or negative burr I think, knife Grinders have some vids on youtube showing the same issue you have had.
Do give all the info Rick mentioned though as you dont mention anything like using FVB etc.
Alan.
Quote from: bgtklbx on January 02, 2021, 02:03:37 AM
To all the rock hard felt people, how much pressure do you use? I have the "proper" RHF and use the 1 micron spray...but for some reason I don't have the kind of results I read about on this forum. I use a very light pressure, basically just the weight of the knife itself. I have BESS tested and usually see a decrease in sharpness. For information I might go from cbn 400 to 1000 and then debur on the 250 mm leather wheel from Hanns. Usually 1 degree higher. At that point I'm happy with the results. BUT if I decide to get sharper on the RGF...it's worse??
hmmmm, i test a lot with this costelation... after the 1000 grit wheel go on the Felt with 1° more then u grind before, then use the leather with ur previous grindingangle.
4 strokes each side on the felt wheel with no pressure should work. same on the leatherwheel with a little pressure.
cheers Hanns
Little to no pressure.
From experience, BESS readings increasing tells me I have to re-spray the 1micron diamond onto the felt wheel.
You might want to try Tormek's new CW-220 composite deburring wheel. I reported my extremely positive expereience with it a couple of months ago.
much, doesn't always help much. i coat my felt wheel a maximum of 3-4 times a year. that's perfectly adequate. the thing with the BESS values i've already shown in a video.You can't rely on this at all, because far too many components play into the measurement. and as I said before, whether I cut myself with 50 or 60 Bess...... hurts both.
Well, I see a hugh difference, 80-100 suddenly jumps up to around 300. And when I re-spray it goes down again to 80-100. And since you and I use different wheels, honing compounds, and software you are correct, our situations are not comparable.
I'm not saying one is better than the other; just sharing my observations with MY equipment.
I am too new to sharpening on Tormek to have definitive ideas on felt vs leather, so learning from your feedbacks is really helpful.
I am currently practicing on shun knives, and I feel the Nakiri - having a straight blade - makes things reproducible enough. I tried honing on both the leather wheel with the Tormek compound and a felt wheel with 1µ diamond spray. 5 passes with little to no pressure on each, with the KG FVB set according to wootz's app, each time after having set a 16° angle on the SG coarse then fine. Twice each.
I could feel a real difference when trying to shave paper, the diamond/felt combination making paper shaving feel way easier.
Purchasing and reading the book by wootz was enlightening, as well as binge watching youtube videos on deburring, but left me with the following question : is there a way to tell you've removed the wire burr without having to perform bess tests ? I think I saw on several occasions something along the line of "oops, I might have left a wire edge that mushroomed then collapsed during the bess test, so I'd better hone some more". Or do you have to overhone when you don't have a bess test setup to make sure you've removed everything ?
Hi TGBTO,
The wire edge is such a fine and elusive thing that I think rather than looking for another detection method that may be inconclusive, it would be best to just get yourself a BESS tester (even the PT50-C). You already are binge-watching wootz, plus reading about deburring, using FVB, felt, diamond sprays etc... these are all classic symptoms of BESS tester owners ;)
;D As I can confirm unfortunately, that is exactly how it all starts... ;D
Hello tgbto,
the best what can you buy, IMHO, is a good microscope (ca 300x magnification). It gives you real time feedback over your sharpening technique and you will see what is going on the edge for different steels or the same steel with different heat treatment.
Some equipment can help you repair damage caused by poor technique but I think that targeting to the source of errors is a better way.
You can see a lot of problematic parts in recommended videos, typical scenario is:
1. Now I show you how to sharpen knife.
2. Grinding on few stones + honing on few wheels.
3. Look at the BESS result. Hm, this is not as expected!
4. We do another honing and/or use leather strop...
Point 3 means that there is something wrong with procedure or sharpening technique. Point 4 is using brute force for correction without checking what is wrong on the apex.
The burr-free apex can be achieved before honing. (https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=4591.0)
jvh
Anyone aware of a US source for this felt?
www.durofelt.com
Vadim ("Wootz") says he has purchased from them.
I have a Durofelt 8" x 1" rock hard felt wheel loaded with Autosol metal polish.
Very nice people to deal with.
If you're in the US, free shipping.
I want to get me a felt wheel too.
I am confused about this matter. I have been reading all messages here and what they offer in Germany, too many diverging opinions. Vadim writes that those glue bonded wheels are inferior. They may have false high densities. (most certainly the German wheels are not manufactured in Germany).
I have seen written somewhere that there is a technological limit to how thick a felt wheel can be made without using adhesive.
The durofelt company delivers overseas I see, but they only have 8"x1" wheels (2.5cm); everybody rants about far thicker wheels like 3-4, even 5cm (Letting alone the fact that even a 4" wheel is pushing the limit hard for the small Tormeks mount).
Is there any merit using a thicker wheel for honing?
What is your experience after years of experience?
Would you go for a 3cm 0.9g "rock hard" wheel from local dealers (wherever the wheel / wool may come from), which according to Vadim´s grading is already "flint-hard",or for the durofelt 2.5cm 0.8g rock hard?
Thanks.
Aquataur,
Part of my regular Tormek sharpening self education is regularly watching videos and reading articles about other methods of sharpening. One of the most informative articles I have found about dry grinding is by Joel Moskowitz. He advocates shaping the grinding wheel with a crown in order to limit the area of the tool with the grinding wheel. This is very effective in preventing overheating the tool. Most grinding wheels start out with a width of one inch before crowning.
With that in mind, I don't see the need for or advantage of wider felt wheels.
Ken
Thanks Ken.
Ahh, time is so short, and so many alleys to explore :)
I noticed that the web page of late KG shows slim felt wheels, although in his videos he uses thicker ones.
Other videos on felt wheels I did not find, except maybe Hanns in Germany, and he uses an even thicker wheel.5cm for the T3... I dont know. Even 4 pushes the envelope hard. But they are currently unavailable anyways.
A different german seller has 3cm wheels, 0.9 density, I think I go for this, hardness or not.
I had the suspicion that a fat wheel is deemed some kind of phallus symbol, just like a fat rear wheel on your motorbike...
What was supporting this notion further was the fact that all paper wheels are slim.
I looked into that too, but I think this is a realm beyond me.
Paper at high speed behaves probably no different than a naked MDF board... wood in a different state of matter. And I think I fear those things too.
Your opinion helped, thanks. Sometimes you need to hear a different opinion.
-Helmut
Are you looking at felt wheels for your Tormek, or for a buffer/grinder? There's a huge difference between the two in terms of heat production. A 2" wheel on the Tormek is no problem, but a 1" wheel on even a half-speed grinder heats up the blade VERY quickly.
Good point, 3D.
Ken
No its for the Tormek.
You don´t have a big choice hereabouts.
I took a 3cm wheel.