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Another caveat on the 3D printed drip tray on Thingiverse by Paul. Spacing is a bit off on a T7. Note the gap on the left, between the stone and the tray. It barely clears the right side with a leather honing wheel, but will rub if it is a Tormek CW-220 composite honing wheel ( which is 3.6mm wider).

Congrats and welcome! People here are very friendly, I have learned a lot from them too. Yes, a strop is amazing.

Excellent! Handle it very carefully- it breaks easily. Ask me how I know...

This is my third year doing Farmers Market. Knives are VERY dull. You need a machine that can take a low grit stone. I wore out an 80 grit stone in a year doing the Farmers Market.

Characteristically, Tormek is moving at a glacial pace to get a distributor for the T1 and T2 in Canada, so I hope to get a T1 shipped up here from Sharpening Supplies.

I've talked to Dave at Big Bear Tools about this. He's the Canadian Tormek distributor (except for Lee Valley Tools, who deals directly with Tormek Sweden). Apparantly they won't give him distribution rights to them.

[Edit:]

How did you make the cover to protect the drive wheel from splashing water? Interested in a solution.

There are "Drip Trays" being made (or you can print your own if you have a 3D printer).

Edit:  Here's some more links...

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4791736

https://www.printables.com/model/188557-tormek-drip-tray-for-fvb

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A97KhtUZfF
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I found a kid on Craigslist advertising3D printing. He made it for pretty much material cost.

Very nice setup! I'm impressed!

Is the riser for the right side T8 water trough 3D printed? (I use two stacks of two hockey pucks each).

Todd at Project Farm produces some of the best tool review videos on YouTube. That's why he has such a high subscribed and viewership numbers. If you watch it, you'll find he doesn't waste time, and speeds up the video whenever he can.

He also buys all the products he reviews; he is not sponsored by any manufacturer.

Highly recommended.

(Very impressive)!

Henckels filleting knives are the most common knives where I use a regular long knive jig (SVM-140). However, the jig is too long. I resolved this by cutting 10mm off each end, so that it is now only 120mm wide.

Absolutely. The biggest upgrade to my milling machine was installing DROs - Digital Read Outs. It allows me to compensate quickly for the backlash in all the feed screws.

That's why I measure by shimming underneath using 1-2-3 blocks (actually, 25-50-100mm blocks), gauge blocks, and drill bits. Gravity does the rest.

I'm in the process of making custom "gauge rods" using the lathe and the milling machine, so in the future would rarely need to do that anymore.

Just make your own.

For knives longer than the sleeves, I use these plastic knife tip protectors, about $.10 each: https://www.amazon.ca/XYJ-Protecting-Sleeves-Protector-Stainless/dp/B08N9R45SL/ref=sr_1_19?keywords=XYJ&qid=1651767168&rnid=5264023011&s=kitchen&sr=1-19

For scissors, when both edges are allowed to close from gravity only, the top edge should stop from friction about halfway on the lower edge. Adjust the screw to suit.

That Wolff Industries lube works well, doesn't leave anything that could stain fabric. Plus it removes any remaining Sharpie ink. 

I sharpen ceramic knives, using CBN wheels. Diamond will work too, of course.

Most are Kyocera ceramics, because replacemnt cost is quite high. Usually chipped, so factor for that. I charged $30 to remove the chips and sharpen this Kyocera.

I'm interested in how much shorter the projection distance is at the lower stop, as I do cleavers quite often (the other day one cleaver's shortest possible projection distance with the SVM-45 was 190mm).