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My Tormek sits on a discarded child's wooden table top I cobbled with 2x4 legs and misc. supports forty years ago.  The top has holes from various machines over the years.  Like me, it has become slightly less stable over the years.

My accessories  are stored in a nice looking white metal kitchen hanging cabinet which has seen service in many houses in my family (starting with my grandparents).  It is probably older than I am.  It works very well.

I don't think the Tormek chest is especially overpriced in itself, just beyond most of our budgets.

Sorry you are having a tough year, onewaywood.  Hopefully next year will be better.  Wise choice getting a bandsaw.  Much safer than a table saw and very versatile.

Ken

I agree with Rhino's preference of having drawers to store the extra grinding wheels.  At least, thats my first thought.

I certainly understand that the price for this item may well be out of most of our budgets, mine included.

However, in response to Rhino's comment (probably shared by many)  "An alternative is to buy a tool chest with wheels at any of the hardware stores.  The type that has a top chest sitting on top of a bottom chest with wheels.  Maybe the bottom chest can perform the same function."

I don't think it's fair to directly compare the Tormek chest with some of the inexpensive big box store rolling chests.  Most of them have a very few drawers and a large cabinet space.  A more fair comparison would be with a multidrawer Kennedy chest.  Kennedy does not make a chest in this size.  They do make larger chests with either five, seven or eight drawers.  They are a quality product and are priced in the ball park of the Tormek chest.  I suspect a Kennedy chest in this size with six drawers would be comparable in cost.

Like Herman and probably most of the forum, I use other tools in addition to the Tormek for sharpening.  This chest seems very well designed for the Tormek.  It is compact, something well appreciated in a small shop environment.  I would need other facilities for my sharpening needs in addition to this chest.

It would be fun to see one, and probably be very tempted.  I hope Tormek will soon post more detailed dimensions, including the inside sizes of the drawers.  I would not be surprised to see "package deals".

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Cabear.  Speaking just for myself, I'm not ignoring you; I just have no background with shears.

Good luck.

Ken

It's a clever idea.  I would like to see more specifics about it.  I have the DVD and measured drawing from New Yankee Workshop.  I have been planning to build a sharpening station which would accommodate two Tormeks.  At my age, that probably isn't practical.

However, if this unit would not require a second mortgage, it seems promising.

In the New Yankee episode, Jeff recommended against using wheels to make it portable because of the pressure sometimes involved in grinding.  No doubt it would be more stable without wheels. However, for some users the portability would be nice.  I suspect the height adjusters are a common metric thread, and could be replaced by wheels.  A simple portable base could be made up.

A simple wooden platform would be easy to build.

I look forward to seeing more information (and the price).

Ken

Grepper, you have to think of the long term usage cost.  While this machine might be just a little pricey up front, the motor uses only a little more electricity than a hundred watt bulb when it is running.   I'm sure a tool hawker would not miss this point.

Mike, an old Bridgeport milling machine would probably do this flat work well.  You could put it where your workbench used to be.

Ken

Good thoughts, guys.  In this age where major crimes are solved on television in less than an hour, becoming really proficient in knife sharpening requires concentrated experience.  (It makes me appreciate my old friend the chisel!)

I spent a long time and hard work flattening my grandfather's oilstone years ago.  Today I would try to do it on a diamond flattening stone, but back then it was rub rub rub on glass with carborundum powder.  Since then, I am very careful to try to use the surface of a stone or grinding wheel evenly.  I will also be sure to know when to hold and when to fold.

Any thoughts on thinning the bolster when needed (other than just do it)?

Thanks.

Ken

The moral of the story is sharpen it correctly from the start.

Ken

This arrived in today's email.  I don't know anything about it.

http://www.rikontools.com/facttag80-805.htm?et_mid=632082&rid=237810368

Keep in mind that an eight inch wheel has more surface speed than a six inch wheel at the same motor speed.  The larger wheel would give less hollow ground effect.

Baldor is certainly known as the best, and is priced accordingly.

A good grinder won't wear out.  I would check the old market, back when most grinders had an extra measure of quality build.

Ken

Good thought, Stig.  Thanks; I will work on it.  I do think it would be valuable to keep a straight piece of wood near the Tormek to check the edge curve of kitchen knives.

Funny story, Koolingit!  It reminds me of growing up in New Jersey.  Good for Tessie!  We need more Tessies to keep the knife sharpeners honest (and knowledgeable).

Ken

Good thought, Mike.  In truth, I have a large drawer in my mechanic's chest dedicated to files.  The mill files get used a lot for all sorts of utility duty.  They have never let me down.

Ken

An honest tool hawker........miracles never cease!

Welcome, David. 

The Tormek "250" is a bit puzzling.  The grinding wheels on the larger size (Super Grind or T7, T7 being the current model) is 250mm in diameter x 50mm width.  (For those of us still on the old inch system that's 10" diameter by 2" width.

I would highly recommend choosing the larger wheel.  That's the traditional flagship size for Tormek.  If you go new, the T7 includes the stone grader and diamond dressing tool, both of which are essential.  The T7 is heavier (more stable) and has a heavier duty motor.  The new T7 units come with the much improved EZYlock shafts as standard equipment, as is the new larger water trough.

My only experience is with the T7.  Other members can help you with other models. 

You should gather more information about the model being offered to you for us to be of help.

Good luck.

Ken

Paul,

My support bar measures just over eight inches from the outside of the first vertical bar to the end.  Is that the same size as yours?

Ken

Paul, I regret that you felt you should pull your post.

Ken

Herman, I will check my copy of Ron Hock's book about slicing instead of rocking.

I did a forum search of "broken tip".  The only post which popped up was your last response.  My point was that the solution to the blade curve problem shouldn't be something buried in a somewhat related post which does not emerge from a simple search.  The Tormek related media make knife sharpening look like zip zip, and you're done.  That's true with a new knife or with one which has been very carefully sharpened in the past.  That leaves a lot of unprotected territory.  If the Tormek is designed and marketed as a tool for the sharpening professional, and I believe it is, than the training should cover such things.

This post is mostly an extension of my belief that Tormek manufactures a fine product, but does not fully support the purchasers with proper training options.  From time to time, we read posts by new or prospective buyers who plan to start a sharpening business.  Someone who sharpens kitchen knives professionally should not ever deliver a knife which can't cut properly.

Ken