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I have owned the T4 for a few years now and too be honest it does not get used every week. Once my plane blades and chisels have a decent 25-degree angle I move to the Shapton Glass stones for the micro bevels. 

I struggle with getting blade backs honed to a mirror finish, I use wet and dry and then move to waterstones. But never manage to get a good polish, mainly because I get bored and settle for a happy medium. 

Would the introduction of a 600 grit diamond wheel help me get my backs polished, I tried it on the stone once but never felt comfortable using the side of the stone. 

How does the 600grit compare to the standard stone ?   
       

I read the manual for the first time last night 

It says I can place a blade vertically on the side of the wheel to flatten the backs 

Seems a bit risky to me, anyone used it successfully ?

I am sure I have seen a picture or a video of using the Angle Guide on the honing wheel to set a matching angle for honing; however, the min dia on the setter is 150mm and my wheel on the T4 is 145mm, how does that work ?

Good observation, Segovia. Experience taught me the value of more frequent light truing. Several years ago, I had an untrue wheel sneak up on me on three occasions. (I'm a slow learner.   )

Regular inspection of the trueness of the grinding wheel should be a routine part of our good housekeeping, just like regularly checking the oil level on your vehicle. I don't mean to sound preachy; I am among the less than overachievers. I do think reaching for this goal will eliminate many "gremlins".

Keep us posted.

Ken

Considering it has very lite use I was surprised it needed truing

All sorted now, my wheel was also worn on one side which didn't help

Probably a good idea to email support@tormek.se with pictures. They usually answer promptly and are very helpful. Keep us posted !

Will do, I thought it was normal

I think the Tormek RB-180 rotating base is a most useful, albeit not inexpensive, accessory. For those wanting to economize, I would recommend an inexpensive, small cafeteria tray. Just rotate the tray. The weight of the Tormek will keep it stable. Cafeteria trays also have lips to contain any spilled water. They are made of all plastic and cannot rust.

Ken

Good idea

Has anyone used lazy susan device for their sharpening station

There are lazy susan's that have a lock every 90 degrees, but I can't find any in the UK

Have you seen this?

yes, but he's in the US, and I am in the UK so didn't bother to ask where he got the turntable from

My water trough side is concave on the side that clips to the T4, it's a pain to clip in as I have to get my fingers under the wheel and bend it before it slots into place?

Is this normal, warranty replacement possible , design fault  ? 

Has anyone used lazy susan device for their sharpening station

There are lazy susan's that have a lock every 90 degrees, but I can't find any in the UK

Segovia,

Your question is answered in this recent post:



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April 27, 2023, 03:40:50 PM
Darita,

You are in luck. Check out this video starting at 23:20. Stig talks about the SE-77, including an effective way to square up chisels.

https://www.youtube.com/live/8uLMWXqobRM?feature=share

Ken

He SE-76 is like a guitar with frets. The SE-77 is like a violin, with no frets. The "fret less" design allows more sophisticated camber control. It also requires more care in set up. If by chance, you are thinking the "fret" design might be a better choice for Tormek, several hundred years of violin makers might disagree. While the frets might be easier with chisels, the fret less SE-77 is far superior for plane blades.

You will want a small square and a black marker. Check your grinding early in the process.

Keep us posted.

Ken

Great, I'll give it a try. Never thought to do that. I also looked back at the manual and can see how the camber adjustments may need some tweaking and which direction to move it depending on where the out of square is

I have never paid much attention to the squareness of the edge of my until this evening. 
 
I put a square on a chisel edge, and it out by about 1/16" - I would post a picture, but can't see how that's done.

I suspect it's because I have used the camber feature last time I used the Tormek, the lines look aligned now but it's still out. The chisel is square in the jig. How do I fine tune it to get it square ?

Within an hour of when my T2 arrived, I had both the composite honing wheel and the DWF-200 grinding wheel working on my T4. The main shaft areas of the T4 and T2 are identical.

With the advent of the new 200 mm diamond wheels, I would only purchase the new DF, DC, and DE-200 diamond wheels. They have diamonds on the side for flat grinding. They can also be used with the T4 with ACC solution.

Ken

Hi Ken, are you saying the T4 200mm diamond wheels are a possible viable alternative to the Tormek CW-220 Composite Honing Wheel ?

Hi

I was very disappointed that I could not purchase the Tormek CW-220 Composite Honing Wheel for my T4

I am therefore considering selling my T4 and buying the T8 with the Tormek CW-220 Composite Honing Wheel, or I could stick with the T4 and use my cash to invest in some diamond grinding wheels. Although I am not too sure if that would benefit me any, still doing the research. Any advice appreciated.

Hi

Does Tormek have one of these for the T4 ?

CW-220 Composite Honing Wheel