BGM usefulness

[Ern]

I was looking forward to dealing with a bunch of second hand bench chisels.  The bevels were all over the place and edges were knicked.

So I starting reshaping the bevel on the first with the BGM and the square edge jig that came with the new T-7.  The BGM is mounted to the right of the grinder.

It's convenient to be able to do a pass or two on the dry grinder and let the tool hang in the jig til it cools.

What was disappointing was that when transferred to the T-7 the chisel was too far to the right to touch the wheel and had to be repositioned so losing the advantage of transferability.  In fact the jig had to be turned upside down as only one side of the slot is at right angles.

It may be possible to move the BGM mount further away from the grinder than suggested in the manual so as to keep chisels to the left in the upside down jig; will have to see how that affects the gouge jig.  There's about 50mm in it.

I also found that taking the sharpened chisel from the T-7 and placing it in the Veritas Mark II honing guide on a stone produced a pronounced skew.  Maybe the wheel isn't true from new - something else to check.

[Jeff Farris]

The BGM-100 is intended primarily for wood turning tools, not bench tools.

Personally, I would not use a dry grinder on a bench chisel.  I've never met the nick that I couldn't take out it 3 or 4 minutes on the T-7.

[Ern]

Sure Jeff, but when you add say a 45 degree bevel that someone's done to a chisel to a nick or two, and it's a 1 1/2" firmer as this one was, wet is too slow.

The other thing that disappoints me is the mount end stop provided with the square edge jig.  With the end of the mount bar tapered, you really can't go to it anyway as the jig drops a bit.  Not a problem with the wet wheel as typically you're pressing down on the tool edge but that's unwise with a dry wheel.

[Ern]

Update: the wheel face after truing certainly cuts faster.  That's compared with coarse grading.

I redid the big firmer and the edge is still distinctly out of square.  I took care to seat it against the correct shoulder.  (And the sides are parallel.  Well, there's 0.2 mm diff over the length).

[Jeff Farris]

Check the blade and see if it is twisted over its length.  That is, put the flat side of the blade on a machined flat surface and see if it rocks.  If it does, the SE-76 will have a difficult time grinding a square edge.

Also, be very careful to adjust the Universal Support the same way each time.  Use the micro-adjuster and direct some pressure straight down, directly over the micro-adjuster each time as you tighten the locks.  Using this method both when truing the wheel and when adjusting for the grind should insure that the Universal Support is parallel to the grind stone surface.