Tormek Leather wheel Compound

[Columbo]

Hello everyone,

May sound like a silly question, but I've been thinking about it ever since I've been utilizing my leather wheel on my T8 with the compound.

What are the telltale signs that more compound may be needed to the leather

I'm also finding a difficult to do controlled honing with the same USB height measurements while using the MB-102. Naturally, because the leather wheels diameter is smaller than the 250 diamond. Is the only way to fine-tune this measurement by utilizing of the computer Knife Sharpening applications to determine usb height while control honing?

I've actually been doing it freehand and it does seem by the sounds the leather makes when in contact with the knife edge, that it sounds like I'm at the right angle. I mean the bess machine more often with kitchen knives is giving me a reading under 200 and sometimes lower than 150. I was shocked when I seen some numbers lower than 150 so I actually did two other tests on the same blades at the front and at the rear with approx same figures.
I mean, wouldn't it have been great, and I may be mistaken, to have signed a machine where the slot at the front and the slots at the back would calculate the same angle when using the same height USB. Because the 102 multi base has the long legs. I don't know if I'm clear and what I'm saying, but it is what it is for now thank you all upfront for helping me out with some input.

PHil

[John Hancock Sr]

Phil, the compound, like any other abrasive does wear down so that the particle edges break off and become less effective. Since you are just using a thin layer of compound you are more or less just using one layer of particles. Thus it becomes ineffective very fast. If you look at the Tormek videos they use fresh compound for every hone. Possibly overkill, but I apply fresh compound very regularly, possibly every couple of knives or two or three chisels for instance. Since you are only using a very small amount of compound this should be fine. The trick is to use little often rather than a lot at a time.

Wen I first started using the Tormek I would try and get away with one application per session and I quickly found that the honing wheel was becoming less effective. You can tell since it takes much longer to remove the burr and you don't get the polish on the edge quite as fast.

As for honing, I do it by feel. When you get the bevel you can feel it grab. When the bevel is flat on the honing wheel it offers more pull since more of the blade is in contact. I have always honed freehand.

[cbwx34]

...
What are the telltale signs that more compound may be needed to the leather

I'm also finding a difficult to do controlled honing with the same USB height measurements while using the MB-102. Naturally, because the leather wheels diameter is smaller than the 250 diamond. Is the only way to fine-tune this measurement by utilizing of the computer Knife Sharpening applications to determine usb height while control honing?

I've actually been doing it freehand and it does seem by the sounds the leather makes when in contact with the knife edge, that it sounds like I'm at the right angle. ...
...

I don't think there's any real "signs" when to add compound, other than when it stops working.  You could try going longer between applications, and get an idea of when it stops.  It also depends on your desired results... I use the leather wheel strictly for burr removal, and not for polish, so I get away with adding more less often.

There are a few ways to match the honing angle... you can use a calculator app, use the KS-123, or mark the edge with a Sharpie and look where it's removed, are a few.

You're also on the right track of listening for the sound change when you reach the edge.

[tgbto]

In my experience, there is also some kind of a visual cue, with tiny black debris that start lifting off the wheel when deburring is efficient.

[Columbo]

I truly would thank you all for taking the time to offer me some input.

I've gathered some insight with each of your responses.

One further question when you feel that the leather wheel is somewhat bulky in areas as it's spinning against the blades edge.
*How do you go about cleaning that area?

I mean, I could use the backside of my knife with slight pressure to somehow smooth out where the compound has become somewhat bulky and apply another spread out even coat again.

Truly, I like to thank you all for sharing your experience here.

Thank you Phil

[John Hancock Sr]

*How do you go about cleaning that area?

Once there is a build up use an edge, such as the back of a knife, to clean the wheel. All you are really doing is removing spent compound. After that I use light machine oil, or Ballistol (which I prefer) to re-condition the leather before proceeding. You can also apply neats foot oil which is used for conditioning leather let it soak in overnight before applying the machine oil or ballistol. This will extend the life of the leather.

[cbwx34]

I truly would thank you all for taking the time to offer me some input.

I've gathered some insight with each of your responses.

One further question when you feel that the leather wheel is somewhat bulky in areas as it's spinning against the blades edge.
*How do you go about cleaning that area?

I mean, I could use the backside of my knife with slight pressure to somehow smooth out where the compound has become somewhat bulky and apply another spread out even coat again.

Truly, I like to thank you all for sharing your experience here.

Thank you Phil

It sounds to me like you may be using too much compound?  I can't recall ever having a noticeable buildup (or reading about one) like you described.

Clean it like you described (using the back of a knife as a "scraper)" and maybe try a little less.

I would also caution against using too much oil... it can reduce the effectiveness of the honing compound.

[tgbto]

I never added oil except as per the instructions when the honing wheel was brand new. It is now pitch black, completely smooth and I never scrape it.

When sharpening the first knife of a new session, I only add a bit of compound, by applying the tip of the tube and barely squeezing while moving the tube sideways. It leaves a tiny bit of paste wrapped twice or three times around the wheel.

I then hone for two to thre passes, then (yuck) remove whatever paste is left on the blade with a finger and rub it back onto the wheel. Makes for a dirty fingertip, but the wheel always feels the same.

[John_B]

I think it is a personal preference. I recall some Tormek demonstrators like to use more compound than I typically use. I do not oil my leather wheel beyond the initial conditioning. I find the occasional adding of some paste keeps it perfect. When I think it is not honing as effectively as it did I add a bit of paste. I used the software and FVB for honing before the new KS-123 was added to my setup.

[TireguyfromMA]

I'm also finding a difficult to do controlled honing with the same USB height measurements while using the MB-102. Naturally, because the leather wheels diameter is smaller than the 250 diamond. Is the only way to fine-tune this measurement by utilizing of the computer Knife Sharpening applications to determine usb height while control honing?

You should pick up the new TORMEK KS-123 Angle Setting jig to give you the same honing angle, or even a little more obtuse, than the sharpening angle. The jig will also help you keep the correct angle when you change stones (wheels) that are different sizes.  I bought the KS-123 a few months back, the first day it was available for sale, and really like the ease and precision of going from sharpening to honing.

[Columbo]

I truly would thank you all for taking the time to offer me some input.

I've gathered some insight with each of your responses.

Thankyou

One further question when you feel that the leather wheel is somewhat bulky in areas as it's spinning against the blades edge.
*How do you go about cleaning that area?

I mean, I could use the backside of my knife with slight pressure to somehow smooth out where the compound has become somewhat bulky and apply another spread out even coat again.

Truly, I like to thank you all for sharing your experience here.

Thank you Phil

It sounds to me like you may be using too much compound?  I can't recall ever having a noticeable buildup (or reading about one) like you described.

Clean it like you described (using the back of a knife as a "scraper)" and maybe try a little less.

I would also caution against using too much oil... it can reduce the effectiveness of the honing compound.

[Columbo]

I never added oil except as per the instructions when the honing wheel was brand new. It is now pitch black, completely smooth and I never scrape it.

When sharpening the first knife of a new session, I only add a bit of compound, by applying the tip of the tube and barely squeezing while moving the tube sideways. It leaves a tiny bit of paste wrapped twice or three times around the wheel.

I then hone for two to thre passes, then (yuck) remove whatever paste is left on the blade with a finger and rub it back onto the wheel. Makes for a dirty fingertip, but the wheel always feels the same.

Yes, it does leave for dirty finger Tips but I guess this goals with the project. Thank you for your input.

[Columbo]

I'm also finding a difficult to do controlled honing with the same USB height measurements while using the MB-102. Naturally, because the leather wheels diameter is smaller than the 250 diamond. Is the only way to fine-tune this measurement by utilizing of the computer Knife Sharpening applications to determine usb height while control honing?

You should pick up the new TORMEK KS-123 Angle Setting jig to give you the same honing angle, or even a little more obtuse, than the sharpening angle. The jig will also help you keep the correct angle when you change stones (wheels) that are different sizes.  I bought the KS-123 a few months back, the first day it was available for sale, and really like the ease and precision of going from sharpening to honing.

I'm also finding a difficult to do controlled honing with the same USB height measurements while using the MB-102. Naturally, because the leather wheels diameter is smaller than the 250 diamond. Is the only way to fine-tune this measurement by utilizing of the computer Knife Sharpening applications to determine usb height while control honing?

You should pick up the new TORMEK KS-123 Angle Setting jig to give you the same honing angle, or even a little more obtuse, than the sharpening angle. The jig will also help you keep the correct angle when you change stones (wheels) that are different sizes.  I bought the KS-123 a few months back, the first day it was available for sale, and really like the ease and precision of going from sharpening to honing.

Thank you.

Yes, I do have the KS 123.  So I guess you're saying use the 123, turn the machine around, Snap in the 123 on the previously set USB, and re-Just the usb's height to match the 123's angle.

[Columbo]

*How do you go about cleaning that area?

Once there is a build up use an edge, such as the back of a knife, to clean the wheel. All you are really doing is removing spent compound. After that I use light machine oil, or Ballistol (which I prefer) to re-condition the leather before proceeding. You can also apply neats foot oil which is used for conditioning leather let it soak in overnight before applying the machine oil or ballistol. This will extend the life of the leather.

Interesting thank you I will definitely pick up both those products as well as back up

[John Hancock Sr]

I will definitely pick up both those products as well as back up

I use Ballistol on all of my tools for rust prevention. It works really well. You can also use to to clean up surface rust.