sharpening japanese carving knife

[Enricopg]

hello, I want to sharpen this carving knife:
https://www.dictum.com/en/marking-knife-kogatana-standard-double-bevel-blade-width-18-mm/710201
I read the instructions if I am not wrong the recommend using the SVD.186 R and MB-100 with one diamond stone. To me this is impossible to do. Too expensive. Isn't there another cheaper way to do it? I tried to do one free hand. I am not crazy about it, although there was an improvement compared to my previous method with waterstones.
Thanks Enrico

[John Hancock Sr]

I would use the SVD-110 tool rest. Draw a line across the wheel with a square then align the edge with this. Once you are happy with the angle draw another line onto the tool rest to align the knife so that you can maintain the proper angle. It may take some fine tuning to get it excactly right

[Enricopg]

Thanks John, I was thinking the same but wasnt sure! 👍

[RickKrung]

hello, I want to sharpen this carving knife:
https://www.dictum.com/en/marking-knife-kogatana-standard-double-bevel-blade-width-18-mm/710201
I read the instructions if I am not wrong the recommend using the SVD.186 R and MB-100 with one diamond stone. To me this is impossible to do. Too expensive. Isn't there another cheaper way to do it? I tried to do one free hand. I am not crazy about it, although there was an improvement compared to my previous method with waterstones.
Thanks Enrico

I believe I have dealt with a similar challenge recently, with sharpening very small, thin blades for woodworking marking knives. My blades are about 1mm (0.029") thick, 10mm wide (0.375") and 50mm (2") long.  Bevels are straight, primary at 10º and secondary 20-25º.  The secondary bevel is quite narrow. 
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I used the standard Tormek knife sharpening jigs, both SVM and KJ, but because the blades are so thin, narrow and short, had to hold them off to the side of the jig in order to get them in close enough to the grinding wheels, particularly to get the 10º primary bevel.  Keeping them level and square was also a challenge.  I had to be careful about getting the blade aligned square in the jig and the jig collar snug against the USB, all while carefully and slowly bringing the blade up to the grinding wheel. 
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It took some practice to get right and I'm not showing what some looked like, just those after I got it figured out better (except on of the six blades shown does show a bit of non-uniformity in the primary bevel).  I comment on this partly because it is just what had to be done to get the bevels right, but also because the secondary bevel on the OP's example Kogatana knife is not particularly even. 
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In both the SVM and KJ jigs, I had to use shims under the blades to be able to clamp them, because they are so thin.

The primary difficulty with this setup was keeping the blade/jig from rotating, both radially and axially.  This is what took practice and it ultimately came down to very controlled movements.  Also, I found it worked best when I used magnification (OptiVisor @ 5X) to get in close to view the placement while grinding.