Getting the secondary bevel correct using the DBS 22

[Baldeagle]

Hello from NZ,
         I've owned a T8 for a couple of years, I've just bought 3 new CBN wheels and I have a selection of jigs, I really like what the T8 is capable of doing. I've been reading all sorts on this forum but my first time with my own question.  I consistently have trouble sharpening a drill bit so that the trailing edge is lower than the cutting edge, I have 'played around' with the way I set the cutting edge with the lines on the drill bit holder, I use the magnifier, I've played around with the settings abit and I'm no longer sure which lines I should be using, I seem to get a better result by lining up on the angled lines.  As for doing a secondary bevel (on a bit that I've fluked a correct grind) the secondary grind always ends up being out of parallel with the primary bevel .... any clues please and thank you in advance.   

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, Baldeagle. I have long considered the DBS-22 Tormek's most advanced jig. I believe it was also Torgny's last major project. A few suggestions:

I watch Alan Holtham's excellent fifteen minute video on the DBS-22  as a refresher before every time I use my DBS-22. Here is a link:

https://youtu.be/fSUa1iFUzkM?is=9l-uT6P72XUh8y_b


Start with bits in the 8 to 12mm diameter range. This range  is large enough to see easily without having to use the magnifier and small enough to not require extensive grinding time. It will require some practice to become proficient. Do not become discouraged. If I can do it, you can certainly do it.

Keep us posted.

Ken

[RichColvin]

Tony,

At the Sharpening Handbook, I've cataloged 4 really good videos for using the DBS-22 to sharpen twist drills: https://sharpeninghandbook.info/GT-DrillBits-Twist.html.

Rich

[Baldeagle]

Welcome to the forum, Baldeagle. I have long considered the DBS-22 Tormek's most advanced jig. I believe it was also Torgny's last major project. A few suggestions:

I watch Alan Holtham's excellent fifteen minute video on the DBS-22  as a refresher before every time I use my DBS-22. Here is a link:

https://youtu.be/fSUa1iFUzkM?is=9l-uT6P72XUh8y_b


Start with bits in the 8 to 12mm diameter range. This range  is large enough to see easily without having to use the magnifier and small enough to not require extensive grinding time. It will require some practice to become proficient. Do not become discouraged. If I can do it, you can certainly do it.

Keep us posted.

Ken

Thanks Ken,  I'll have another session with that video, it appears that the cutting edge MUST be lined up, parallel to the horizontal line .... can you tell me what the other line is there for ?

[RickKrung]

Thanks Ken,  I'll have another session with that video, it appears that the cutting edge MUST be lined up, parallel to the horizontal line .... can you tell me what the other line is there for ?

I was about to describe how I rotate the drills counterclockwise when they need a lot of grinding, so that the flutes "end up" lined up with the parallel lines.  But before doing so, I thought to check the DBS-22 manual.  Lo and behold...  That is exactly what the slanted lines are for.  First mentioned on page 7 where it talks about lining the flutes up with the parallel lines, but refers readers to page 13 where it talks about the slanted lines for grinding "broken drill".  I would say one does not need to rotate all the way to the slanted lines, depending on just how much more grinding is needed to eliminate chips in the flutes, things that are less than "broken" drills?

This makes me wonder about the wisdom of starting out lining up facets of just dull drills with the parallel lines.  Why are we not rotating all drills just a little CCW from parallel so that when done, they are lines up with the parallel lines, as it says in the figure on page 13. 

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