Is there still a wire burr at 200 Bess?

[ABall]

Thanks for link Ken, I have seen all his vids over the years and you just forget don't you. I was fixated on speed and when the composite wheel came out he did a vid going from CBN 160 (amongst a couple of other options) straight to composite. That was was probably when I stopped looking for improvement and I just stuck with it. He did also move onto green chromium oxide on the leather wheel, I never really tried that until I bought the Bess tester which is quite a few years later. I will have to go over the Globals at some point.

[Brock O Lee]

Yes I am convinced that you still have a burr at 200 BESS.

I started to test my edges after I read Vadim's opinion about lingering burrs over 100 BESS. In my experience he was spot on.

I also like and use his very simple Rizla cigarette paper cutting test to detect a burr. In my experience, if a fresh edge (finished at 1000+ grit and stropped to remove the burr) does not cleanly slice thin Rizla paper from heel to tip, I know I still have a burr. This burr is small enough that I cannot see it under bright light or feel it. A sub-1000 grit edge or even a tiny burr does not cut Rizla paper cleanly.





I sharpened the Umnumzaan above on the Edge Pro, but the Tormek is no slouch... At the moment I feel I can get sharper edges with the diamond wheels than the SG. This was on the DE-250 diamond wheel and stropped.



I was always a "coarse/toothy edge" kinda guy, until I read this article. These incredible micrographs made me more aware of persistent burrs, and made me pay much more attention to deburring. This whole site is a gold mine of knowledge.

https://scienceofsharp.com/2024/02/03/seven-misconceptions-about-knife-burrs/

[ABall]

Yes I am convinced that you still have a burr at 200 BESS.

I started to test my edges after I read Vadim's opinion about lingering burrs over 100 BESS. In my experience he was spot on.

I also like and use his very simple Rizla cigarette paper cutting test to detect a burr. In my experience, if a fresh edge (finished at 1000+ grit and stropped to remove the burr) does not cleanly slice thin Rizla paper from heel to tip, I know I still have a burr. This burr is small enough that I cannot see it under bright light or feel it. A sub-1000 grit edge or even a tiny burr does not cut Rizla paper cleanly.





I sharpened the Umnumzaan above on the Edge Pro, but the Tormek is no slouch... At the moment I feel I can get sharper edges with the diamond wheels than the SG. This was on the DE-250 diamond wheel and stropped.



I was always a "coarse/toothy edge" kinda guy, until I read this article. These incredible micrographs made me more aware of persistent burrs, and made me pay much more attention to deburring. This whole site is a gold mine of knowledge.

https://scienceofsharp.com/2024/02/03/seven-misconceptions-about-knife-burrs/

Great numbers, thanks for the website link, Ive started reading it. I know exactly how important it is to remove the burr because I havent managed to do it yet using my T8. I bought a Spiderco Endura 4 in K390 just because I read it was easy to de-burr, Ive had to grind stop down as the point of the blade was sticking out when closed due to me shapening so much, I think I aged the knife about 10 years  So ive dropped down another rabbit hole and purchased a Work Sharp Pro Elite system and now Im getting these numbers, Ive been experimenting with diamond strop compounds and I think Stroppy Stuff is great.

[Brock O Lee]

Great numbers, thanks for the website link, Ive started reading it. I know exactly how important it is to remove the burr because I havent managed to do it yet using my T8. I bought a Spiderco Endura 4 in K390 just because I read it was easy to de-burr, Ive had to grind stop down as the point of the blade was sticking out when closed due to me shapening so much, I think I aged the knife about 10 years  So ive dropped down another rabbit hole and purchased a Work Sharp Pro Elite system and now Im getting these numbers, Ive been experimenting with diamond strop compounds and I think Stroppy Stuff is great.

I also like K390 a lot. 👍



Speaking of Stroppy Stuff, he has a great video about checking, deburring and verifying with BESS at every step along the way, using a K390 Delica. You may have seen it?

It opened my eyes at the time. Not specifically Tormek related, but many of these techniques are easy and useful to incorporate. The deburring principles are universal and also applies to the Tormek.

[ABall]

Great numbers, thanks for the website link, Ive started reading it. I know exactly how important it is to remove the burr because I havent managed to do it yet using my T8. I bought a Spiderco Endura 4 in K390 just because I read it was easy to de-burr, Ive had to grind stop down as the point of the blade was sticking out when closed due to me shapening so much, I think I aged the knife about 10 years  So ive dropped down another rabbit hole and purchased a Work Sharp Pro Elite system and now Im getting these numbers, Ive been experimenting with diamond strop compounds and I think Stroppy Stuff is great.

I also like K390 a lot. 👍



Speaking of Stroppy Stuff, he has a great video about checking, deburring and verifying with BESS at every step along the way, using a K390 Delica. You may have seen it?

It opened my eyes at the time. Not specifically Tormek related, but many of these techniques are easy and useful to incorporate. The deburring principles are universal and also applies to the Tormek.

       Yeah Ive watched that vid thanks. I think I prefer 8Cr13MoV, its easier to polish and for what i use it for is plenty hard enough even on my old Enlan EL-01 which cost me about £10 many moons ago!

[Andy]

hen hone at +0.5 degrees on a WSKO blade attachment with leather belt and Tormek honing compound, followed by exact on a leather belt with 5 micron diamond compound. Repeatable.

Good afternoon. How do you honing on a WSKO? Using guides or using in limbo?
Andrii
from Ukraine.

[Sir Amwell]

I initially grind and then refine on a 1000 grit CBN wheel on Tormek.
I then hone on a leather belt on WSKO with Tormek paste.
I estimate the blade taper for a given knife.
Say I want to hone exact angle I compensate for the blade taper and set the WSKO accordingly.
So if I ground at 15 degrees per side on Tormek.
If the taper on the knife is 1.5 degrees per side then I set the WSKO to 13.5 degrees to hone exact.
For most knives I hone at plus 1.5-2 degrees per side initially.
Then at exact to finally remove the burr.
Make sense?
PM me if you want more details/explanation.

[Andy]

I initially grind and then refine on a 1000 grit CBN wheel on Tormek.
I then hone on a leather belt on WSKO with Tormek paste.
I estimate the blade taper for a given knife.
Say I want to hone exact angle I compensate for the blade taper and set the WSKO accordingly.
So if I ground at 15 degrees per side on Tormek.
If the taper on the knife is 1.5 degrees per side then I set the WSKO to 13.5 degrees to hone exact.
For most knives I hone at plus 1.5-2 degrees per side initially.
Then at exact to finally remove the burr.
Make sense?
PM me if you want more details/explanation.

Thank you. Great.

[Andy]

How to maintain a 13.5 degree angle for honing? By hand?
Muscle memory?

[tgbto]

How to maintain a 13.5 degree angle for honing? By hand?
Muscle memory?

I use the WSKO a lot, I even added a FVB so I can keep the shaft horizontal.

Still, even with this setup, it is IMO impossible to be precise within 1dps : the slack in the belt itself, even on the stiffest setting, lets the angle vary with the slightest change in pressure.

I also found the scale on the first generation to be quite approximate. But this can be corrected with an anglecube or the like.

[Andy]

How to maintain a 13.5 degree angle for honing? By hand?
Muscle memory?

I use the WSKO a lot, I even added a FVB so I can keep the shaft horizontal.

Still, even with this setup, it is IMO impossible to be precise within 1dps : the slack in the belt itself, even on the stiffest setting, lets the angle vary with the slightest change in pressure.

I also found the scale on the first generation to be quite approximate. But this can be corrected with an anglecube or the like.

You are right! I also have a hard time maintaining the exact angle on the WSKO. Impossible.
And how did you set up the "FVB" on the WSKO? Can you take a picture?
Do you mean the WSKO + Work Sharp Blade Grinder?

[tgbto]

And how did you set up the "FVB" on the WSKO? Can you take a picture?

Sure, here's the topic with pictures

Do you mean the WSKO + Work Sharp Blade Grinder?

Yup !