New Tormek user + some questions (water re-use, can't unscrew wheel, using as gr

[cheater]

Hi all,
I recently got a T8 Black with the coarse diamond wheel that's included as standard (DC-250).

A few questions:

1. Is it fine to re-use the distilled water? I don't use the grinder a lot, I just have a normal small household, so I'd go through distilled water and anti-rust fluid very quickly if I used a new batch for every time.

Currently when I'm done grinding I put the water back in a glass mineral water bottle. I filter it through a kitchen paper towel to grab the metal shavings.

2. How do you tip out the water? I find it cumbersome to unscrew the wheel (and currently I can't at all) so I just unplug it, pick it up by the handle, and kind of tip the water out like a pitcher.

3. The wheel is currently stuck on - I can't undo the thumb screw. I'll probably need some sort of pliers. Can someone suggest a good tool for that scenario? I don't want to mar or damage the screw and it kind of looks like I'd need something with large, rounded-off jaws.

4. Is it fine to use this wheel for grinding/shaping rather than only sharpening? Again I don't run a metal shop but sometimes (rarely) I have something that needs grinding down a bit. So for example, today, I bought some skeleton keys for the doors in my flat since the keys were missing. The new keys would go in the lock but when turning would grind to a halt. Took the locks apart, lubricated them, made sure nothing's grinding, turned the key with the lock taken apart to see if there are any obstructions. Nothing, smooth operation. Reinstalled the lock and the same problem occurred. Turns out the dimension on the lower left that's supposed to be 8.5, on my keys was 10mm. Went down and ground them down and now they're perfect. It was a casting error, looks like the cast was worn.

[John Hancock Sr]

There is a YouTube channel called Tormek Innovation and they have many useful videos that go through using the Tormek and contain a lot of useful tips.

Is it fine to re-use the distilled water

Yes. However you don't need to use distilled water. Any water is fine. As for reuse - again re-use is perfectly fine. I decant mine into a bottle and I simply wash away the dregs in the bottom after using the magnet and scraper to clear out the shavings.

How do you tip out the water?

There is a knob on the back that you can use to wind the water tray down. When it is fully down you can slide the tray out since it clears the wheel.

The wheel is currently stuck on - I can't undo the thumb screw

Facing the front of the machine grasp the honing wheel with your left and and the grinding wheel with your right push the grinding wheel away from you (it has a left hand thread) at which stage it should come loose.

You should remove the wheel from the machine between use. It can become stuck if left on for too long. Avoid loosening the wheel by rotating the knurled knob.

Is it fine to use this wheel for grinding/shaping rather than only sharpening?

So long as you are not too aggressive. Be very gentle. Softer materials can clog the wheel so be aware of that.

[RickKrung]

Hi all,
I recently got a T8 Black with the coarse diamond wheel that's included as standard (DC-250).

A few questions:
...snip...
4. Is it fine to use this wheel for grinding/shaping rather than only sharpening? Again I don't run a metal shop but sometimes (rarely) I have something that needs grinding down a bit. So for example, today, I bought some skeleton keys for the doors in my flat since the keys were missing. The new keys would go in the lock but when turning would grind to a halt. Took the locks apart, lubricated them, made sure nothing's grinding, turned the key with the lock taken apart to see if there are any obstructions. Nothing, smooth operation. Reinstalled the lock and the same problem occurred. Turns out the dimension on the lower left that's supposed to be 8.5, on my keys was 10mm. Went down and ground them down and now they're perfect. It was a casting error, looks like the cast was worn.

Yes, you can and obviously you did, but personally, I wouldn't do this.  I think a better solution would be to buy a traditional grinding wheel, preferably 10" dia. but 8" works also and fit it with a bushing and flange washers and run it in the water bath just like standard Tormek grinding wheels.  It will grind those projects faster and better than the DC diamond and there won't be any risk of wear or damage to the DC. 

VERY cost effective, under $100 for a wheel and not much for PVC pipe and washers.  Ken S. did this with just that, a drilled out piece of PVC pipe and flange washers.  I machined a stainless steel bushing and aluminum flange washers.  You can true that traditional grinding wheel just like any other true-able wheel, although you probably don't have a Truing Tool.

I did this before I had any diamond wheel (or CBN) because I wasn't happy with how slowly the SG or SB grinding wheels removed metal on edges needed a lot.  Worked great.   

Norton 3X, 64 grit, 8" dia., 1" wide mounted on a T8.
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10" dia, no-name, 1" wide, unknown grit, also mounted on T8
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Machined bushing and flange washers. 
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Video of truing the 10" grinding wheel.