thoughts on SVM and KJ knife jigs

[BadVlad]

I've been actively following the forum for about ten years with tremendous pleasure. I would like to thank all for open and free exchange of often mind blowing ideas, and also honor those contributors who passed away.

Even though I'm not a Tormek owner (yet), over the years I've purchased numerous pieces of USB, XB-100,SVM-45  and recently KJ-45 & 140 to use with my slow belt grinder setup (3.5m/s) and slow bench grinder (1400RPM).
I sharpened over 200 butcher knives (tapered/FFG blades) during slaughter season with KJ-45 and developed a hard skin on my index finger. Friction and pressure coming from tightening knurled knob was soon unbearable and I replaced it with a 6x16mm Allen head bolt.

Gripping tapered/FFG blades is hard(er) and that's the only complaint I have so far in regard with KJ-45. Not sure about build quality, but have faith in Swedish made products and will order a few more jigs if current batch of five holds up good.
I sharpen exclusively on a first stop, but measure projection from the second stop as it's dead flat (and deduct 25mm accordingly for the math).

Incoming 45x19mm aluminum profile from Finnish GreenLab will serve as a base for projection distance block.
It has a continuous center groove and measuring projection from the first stop would be impossible anyway...

[agwinner1]

I'm coming in late to this discussion, I just discovered that the SVM-45 is no longer made by Tormek. I'm a professional sharpener, I work farmer's markets and do pop-ups at quilt shows and homes. I need to work quickly, the SVM lets me adjust the clamp quickly for a new knife instead of changing the support bar height. I've been overtightening the SVM, yesterday I stripped out the brass threads after about a year of use. I really don't want to use the KJ, my routine is suddenly upset. I have two others that I had milled out per Vadim.
Does anyone have an SVM they would like to sell me?

[cbwx34]

I'm coming in late to this discussion, I just discovered that the SVM-45 is no longer made by Tormek. I'm a professional sharpener, I work farmer's markets and do pop-ups at quilt shows and homes. I need to work quickly, the SVM lets me adjust the clamp quickly for a new knife instead of changing the support bar height. I've been overtightening the SVM, yesterday I stripped out the brass threads after about a year of use. I really don't want to use the KJ, my routine is suddenly upset. I have two others that I had milled out per Vadim.
Does anyone have an SVM they would like to sell me?

Might try this one...

https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/products/used-demo-tormek-svm-45-knife-jig?_pos=1&_sid=963875b0d&_ss=r

[Ken S]

Here is another source for the SVM-45. I suspect many dealers may have a few in stock. I would not wait.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/sharpening/jigs-mounts-and-rests/67115-tormek-knife-jigs

Ken

[VijayDoshi]

Hi folks,

I've developed a retrofit for the KJ-45 to make it more like the SVM. If you, like me are frustrated with the KJs, take a look! I also made the shaft longer and used a standard vs ACME thread.

https://magnoliaknife.com/products/tormek-kj-45-adjustable-retrofit

[Swemek]

Old thread alert.

I found it when searching for full flat grind and KJ-45. I have some issues with KJ-45 when it comes to knives that tapers off, like spyderco knives but also fillet knives since the blade height(?) is so small, hope you anderstand what I mean. Blades like that has so much taper so that the jig can't get a good grip, besides the problem with the blade resting towards on side of the jig, giving uneven bevels.

My workaround have been various tiny wedges in plastic, metal and wood where the latter have had the best grip, one on each side.


Do you have any tips when it comes to clamp knives with a more aggressive taper? KJ-can handle a bit of taper but I have many knives where I have to use wedges to get a decent grip.

Did the former jig have the same problem?

I don't know if it's possible, but replacing the No 3 screw for a longer one could be an option.  Even if it could lead to other issues like the knob touching the stone instead of the bevel of the knife.
 

[cbwx34]

Old thread alert.

I found it when searching for full flat grind and KJ-45. I have some issues with KJ-45 when it comes to knives that tapers off, like spyderco knives but also fillet knives since the blade height(?) is so small, hope you anderstand what I mean. Blades like that has so much taper so that the jig can't get a good grip, besides the problem with the blade resting towards on side of the jig, giving uneven bevels.

My workaround have been various tiny wedges in plastic, metal and wood where the latter have had the best grip, one on each side.


Do you have any tips when it comes to clamp knives with a more aggressive taper? KJ-can handle a bit of taper but I have many knives where I have to use wedges to get a decent grip.

Did the former jig have the same problem?

I don't know if it's possible, but replacing the No 3 screw for a longer one could be an option.  Even if it could lead to other issues like the knob touching the stone instead of the bevel of the knife.

I think it was worse on the SVM jig.

A couple of things to try... one is to make sure the rear screw (4) doesn't touch at all when setting the front screw.  The second is, you may need to loosen the front screw to get a better grip on tapered knives.  For most knives I set the front screw by loosely tightening it... stopping at the slightest pressure, then tighten the back screw.  For tapered knives I find that by loosely tightening the front screw, then backing out between 1/4 to 1 turn, then tightening the back screw, allows the clamp to better conform to the blade shape.

Also instead of wedges, try something like a thin piece of leather or rubber wrapped around the spine.

[Swemek]

Old thread alert.

I found it when searching for full flat grind and KJ-45. I have some issues with KJ-45 when it comes to knives that tapers off, like spyderco knives but also fillet knives since the blade height(?) is so small, hope you anderstand what I mean. Blades like that has so much taper so that the jig can't get a good grip, besides the problem with the blade resting towards on side of the jig, giving uneven bevels.

My workaround have been various tiny wedges in plastic, metal and wood where the latter have had the best grip, one on each side.


Do you have any tips when it comes to clamp knives with a more aggressive taper? KJ-can handle a bit of taper but I have many knives where I have to use wedges to get a decent grip.

Did the former jig have the same problem?

I don't know if it's possible, but replacing the No 3 screw for a longer one could be an option.  Even if it could lead to other issues like the knob touching the stone instead of the bevel of the knife.

I think it was worse on the SVM jig.

A couple of things to try... one is to make sure the rear screw (4) doesn't touch at all when setting the front screw.  The second is, you may need to loosen the front screw to get a better grip on tapered knives.  For most knives I set the front screw by loosely tightening it... stopping at the slightest pressure, then tighten the back screw.  For tapered knives I find that by loosely tightening the front screw, then backing out between 1/4 to 1 turn, then tightening the back screw, allows the clamp to better conform to the blade shape.

Also instead of wedges, try something like a thin piece of leather or rubber wrapped around the spine.

I have watched the Tormek film on the subject and on many knives it's a perfect match when making a big gap with the front screw.

Leather, I haven't tried that, will do. I have tried rubber, but only as wedges and the rubber I had was sliding when tightening the jaws.

Another thing I will look into is using an old tapered knife blade, or a small part of it, to make wedge. Even if the metal isn't quality metal, I might struggle when it comes to cutting it in smaller pieces.

[John Hancock Sr]

Can I assume that the best and easiest option is to buy the KJ-45 jig

I have been using the KJ-45 only and am getting very good consistent results without fail. I find it fast easy and convenient. I just ordered the KS-123 which should make it even faster and easier. I am getting super sharp results which the wife can wreck in minutes still!!!

[iSharpen]

Hi folks,

I've developed a retrofit for the KJ-45 to make it more like the SVM. If you, like me are frustrated with the KJs, take a look! I also made the shaft longer and used a standard vs ACME thread.

https://magnoliaknife.com/products/tormek-kj-45-adjustable-retrofit

I love this! I hate the new KJ jig. My thumb has nowhere to sit. It's used to sitting in the "cup". The new jig has ruined the feel for me. I have a lot of muscle (thumb?) memory and I don't need this unnecessary disruption to my work flow. Plus, I hate plastic. I sharpen thousands of knives a year so I'm trying to buy ALL remaining KJ jigs on planet earth (kidding) in an unreasonable panic.

I'd love if the thumb rest actually emulates the "cup" feel instead of the flat surface that yours seems to be but it's better than nothing. I've left a comment on your video. I hope you can ship one to Australia as your cart won't allow it. Hoping we can solve this.

[John_B]

Ken in your sharpening do you notice any difference when using self cneering as opposed to the original style>

[Ken S]

John,

I don't notice much difference, although, my thickest knife is a 3.2 mm Mora Garberg. I also have a Mora Companion HD which is almost as thick. Both are a little thick for the standard issue SVM-45, but easily handled by my Wootz modified SVM-45 with the .5mm mill out. And, I am a low volume sharpener.

I wonder about very this paring knives. My suggestion would be to stay with your present "old reliable" knife jigs and add a KJ-45. Personally, I never use my KJ-140. My boning knife is woo short for it.


Ken

[John_B]

I have this knife but it gets used so rarely I doubt that it will see the wheel in my lifetime. I used it more when I lived in the Pacific Northwest and made gravlax with salmon I caught or bought of the boats. Now I live in the Midwest and salmon is exorbitantly priced. I may give brisket a try this Summer.

https://cdn.hdmdknives.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Salmon-slicer-1.jpg

[Ken S]

John,

Your long knife sounds like a significant "need" for the T1 you have been wanting to buy. Buy it for your family to enjoy brisket!

Ken