MicroBevel?

[Gambrell]

I am new to hand tool woodworking and recently bought a T-8 to sharpen my chisels and plane blades.  All of the woodworking sharpening literature I read recommends a secondary bevel (aka micro bevel) on chisels and plane blades.  All the Tormek literature and videos only advises a primary bevel.  Is a micro bevel not needed with a Tormek?  Or is there some way I should be using the Tormek to create a micro bevel?  What do you all do when sharpening chisels and plane blades for woodworking?

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, Brian.

I suspect you will receive different and conflicting replies about microbevels.
Here are my thoughts:

Microbevels are a labor saving technique going back to when most sharpening was done by hand using bench stones. When sharpening with a Tormek, the electric motor of the Tormek does the labor. One can add a microbevel with the Tormek; however, it is not necessary.

Ken

[John Hancock Sr]

Ken is on the money. Completely agree. If you are just using the Tormek then no need for a micro bevel.

There may be an exception though if you are using the Tormek for the initial sharpening then refreshing the edge with stones. You *can* establish the edge on the Tormek then come back to a stone to freehand refresh the edge. The hollow grind makes this super easy since had whetting will by the nature of the action add a micro bevel as both the tip and heel of the bevel sit on the stone. You can then hand strop then get back to work.

Over time you will settle into whatever technique suites you, and will no doubt pick up shortcuts to suite your style.

[Ken S]

I might add one minor comment to John's thoughts. The theory of microbeveling is to start with a small area of the bevel. Each refreshing of the edge gradually increases this small area until it becomes large enough for regrinding. If one eliminates the microbevel initially, the starting point becomes zero. This adds an extra refreshment or two to each grinding cycle.

Ken

[cb200t]

I might add one minor comment to John's thoughts. The theory of microbeveling is to start with a small area of the bevel. Each refreshing of the edge gradually increases this small area until it becomes large enough for regrinding. If one eliminates the microbevel initially, the starting point becomes zero. This adds an extra refreshment or two to each grinding cycle.

Ken

I'm not totally sure I understand that last part. Could you clarify what you mean by "This adds an extra refreshment or two to each grinding cycle."?

[Ken S]

Alex,

Adding a microbevel to a chisel uses a surface of about 1/32". With each touch up, that 1/32" gets a little wider until eventually it becomes large enough to warrant regrinding.

With no microbevel, the initial surface becomes effectively 0". With the first touch up, that 0" surface will become 1/32". (All of these numbers are approximate.) A blade ground without a microbevel will have at least one more extra edge refreshing before it is necessary to regrind.

ken

[RichColvin]

Here is more information on micro bevels https://sharpeninghandbook.info/MicroBevels.html

[cb200t]

Alex,

Adding a microbevel to a chisel uses a surface of about 1/32". With each touch up, that 1/32" gets a little wider until eventually it becomes large enough to warrant regrinding.

With no microbevel, the initial surface becomes effectively 0". With the first touch up, that 0" surface will become 1/32". (All of these numbers are approximate.) A blade ground without a microbevel will have at least one more extra edge refreshing before it is necessary to regrind.

ken

Okay, I understand what you're saying now. Thank you.

[Gambrell]

Thanks everyone for the responses.  Great information!  This helps a lot.