Rock Hard Felt Wheels

[BPalv]

I have only peeked down the rabbit hole of honing and use an extra leather wheel with 1µ diamonds followed by a hanging strop. I believe the key to increased sharpness is using progressively lighter pressure as you move along each step. With my final diamond hone I exert not much more than the knife's weight. Since I do not have a means of accurately testing this theory other's opinions are welcome.

As of late I have been able to match Vadim's efforts on one steel (Wusthof classic 55).  I was able to achieve this edge consistently, by following similar procedures.  So to start with, you don't need to follow his procedures exactly to achieve his results.  I will say, to achieve these results I did indeed use extremely light pressure on the hone, only the pressure of the knife.
I was able to get the knife to 60 with the Tormek paste, It didn't drop to 55 until after I honed it on 1 micron diamonds... ever so lightly.
I could post my procedure but the key take away is that this edge was achieved using a slightly different technique.  As John had mentioned, a light touch is critical, let the abrasive finish for you.

[Columbo]

Hi Rick. Thanks for your reply.
...snip...
So maybe give more detail on your process for mainstream knives involving the rock hard felt wheel?
Describing pressure, number of passes etc?
In advance, thank you.

Sir Amwell,

I have not been ignoring you request, just had to get through some stuff to were I could think more clearly.  I'm not sure that has helped much, however, as I'm not sure how much I can say about my process that will inform much. 

I use a sequence of CBN/diamond wheels, 180 CBN, DC, DF, DE.  I start at the heel and move to the tip, mostly lifting.  I DO go back the other way often.  Pressure is light to moderate at most.  I take as many passes on the CBN as it takes to raise a burr from both sides.  Sometimes there are portions, mainly in the middle that take longer to raise a burr, but I work nearly all the length across the non-curved portion.  Once the burr has been raised, it doesn't take but a pass or two on the DC, DF and DE wheels to refine the edge.  I use black marker on EVERY edge, EVERY wheel change.  In part as this helps me know when I've ground enough with each wheel, as well as checking the burr under mangification often.  I use the Kingmas 60X hand microscope for that. 

Then it is to the SJ wheel, at the same angle as the previous wheels.  For angle setting, I use only the distance from the USB to the wheel surface, using one of CB's calculators, calipers and a rubber band stretch from the USB to the axle shaft.  Sometimes I have to remove the nut to expose enough shaft to hold the rubber band.  Again, use black marker and again only a couple passes, pressure is about the same as with the others.  All of this is done edge-leading from the rear USB, while sitting in front of the T8.

Honing is done edge-trailing on the rock hard felt wheel, using 1µ diamond paste, applied sparingly and spread out as evenly as possible.  Angle is set 1-2º higher than the grinding angle, again using the distance to the wheel, rubber band, calculator and calipers.  I think I use more pressure in this operation but only a couple passes.  Final strop on a hanging leather (kangaroo tail, from Vadim) strop.  Angle is fairly flat, so lower than honing or grinding, I believe. 

A long time ago, when I was doing BESS testing, the best I could do was around 90 BESS, but was consistently around 100-110. 

Hope this helps,

Rick

Wow Sir, what an amazing clear and concise procedure. Simply wow!

I'd like to thank you and others. You guys and gals if you're will, are teaching me beyond to what l can express. Every time I come on board and read all your posts it just leaves me in ah. No patronizing here with my post. I am just so grateful to have an outlet such as this to learn from.

Thank you thank you