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For Those Who Use Paper Wheels

Started by darita, June 12, 2023, 03:27:42 PM

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darita

I can't,for the life of me, get rid of the bouncy vibration I feel in my tool when using these slotted paper wheels.  I've adjusted out 90% of the wobble in the wheels.  My 1/2 speed arbor has less than .0001" runout.  I've even tried attaching sandpaper to the back of a TT50 in an attempt to knock down the high spots on the out of round wheels with little success.  Is this normal?  Do all of yours do the same thing?  Or, should I have continuous contact with the wheel surface and have smooth, vibration-free contact.

tgbto

Could it be that there is some kind of an in-volume anisotropy of the wheel, where the variable density would make for a static or dynamic imbalance ? That kind of problem could not be solved by rounding off high spots, only by a tire/wheel-like balancing...


darita

That could be, but at this point, anything could be.  I get two high spots on the wheel on opposite surfaces and two low spots on opposite surfaces.  Is this normal or should it be a continuous contact pattern?


cbwx34

Quote from: darita on June 12, 2023, 03:27:42 PMI can't,for the life of me, get rid of the bouncy vibration I feel in my tool when using these slotted paper wheels.  I've adjusted out 90% of the wobble in the wheels.  My 1/2 speed arbor has less than .0001" runout.  I've even tried attaching sandpaper to the back of a TT50 in an attempt to knock down the high spots on the out of round wheels with little success.  Is this normal?  Do all of yours do the same thing?  Or, should I have continuous contact with the wheel surface and have smooth, vibration-free contact.

I'll tell you my answer, (even though I know you won't like it)...

The faster, the smoother.  :)
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darita

Quote from: cbwx34 on June 12, 2023, 05:28:26 PM
Quote from: darita on June 12, 2023, 03:27:42 PMI can't,for the life of me, get rid of the bouncy vibration I feel in my tool when using these slotted paper wheels.  I've adjusted out 90% of the wobble in the wheels.  My 1/2 speed arbor has less than .0001" runout.  I've even tried attaching sandpaper to the back of a TT50 in an attempt to knock down the high spots on the out of round wheels with little success.  Is this normal?  Do all of yours do the same thing?  Or, should I have continuous contact with the wheel surface and have smooth, vibration-free contact.

I'll tell you my answer, (even though I know you won't like it)...

The faster, the smoother.  :)

...but does this happen for everyone?  I mean the seemingly out of round wheel?

Sir Amwell

When I started using paper wheels I had the same problem and it was a little worrying. So I think I got quite tentative which only made the problem worse. I contacted Vadim who instructed me to use greater pressure than one would think ( can't give you a quantitative figure for how much pressure).
Anyway, from that point on the process became much smoother with little or no chatter. I think there was a bit of a learning curve and a bit of 'running in' for the wheels themselves.

darita

Quote from: Sir Amwell on June 12, 2023, 07:03:23 PMWhen I started using paper wheels I had the same problem and it was a little worrying. So I think I got quite tentative which only made the problem worse. I contacted Vadim who instructed me to use greater pressure than one would think ( can't give you a quantitative figure for how much pressure).
Anyway, from that point on the process became much smoother with little or no chatter. I think there was a bit of a learning curve and a bit of 'running in' for the wheels themselves.

Great advice, both from you and Vadim. I really do miss be able to ask him directly. Thank you for chiming in.

darita

Quote from: Sir Amwell on June 12, 2023, 07:03:23 PMWhen I started using paper wheels I had the same problem and it was a little worrying. So I think I got quite tentative which only made the problem worse. I contacted Vadim who instructed me to use greater pressure than one would think ( can't give you a quantitative figure for how much pressure).
Anyway, from that point on the process became much smoother with little or no chatter. I think there was a bit of a learning curve and a bit of 'running in' for the wheels themselves.

Well I followed your and Vadim's advice and ignored the chatter, using more pressure.  With that, I was able to get my first sub-50g Bess reading...I got 40g!  My hope is that as the paper wheel gets worn in, the chatter will go away and smooth out and I'll be able to get even sharper.  As it is, that 40g edge is able to split hairs easily, so I'm a happy sharpener.  Thanks again!

Sir Amwell

Yay! Glad that helped Darita.
I suppose that the paper wheels are quite a departure from the slow, even grinding work on the Tormek and it takes a little while to gain confidence, especially as there is an element of jeopardy in the higher speed revolutions.
Personally,I have all but given up on chasing sub 50 Bess scores. Too much time and fiddle faddle involved which can't be justified to most clients. Would only bother with a high end knife and by agreement with a customer.
Let us know how consistent you can get results with the paper wheels. I have had mixed results and don't bother with them much anymore.

darita

Quote from: Sir Amwell on June 13, 2023, 12:37:33 AMYay! Glad that helped Darita.
I suppose that the paper wheels are quite a departure from the slow, even grinding work on the Tormek and it takes a little while to gain confidence, especially as there is an element of jeopardy in the higher speed revolutions.
Personally,I have all but given up on chasing sub 50 Bess scores. Too much time and fiddle faddle involved which can't be justified to most clients. Would only bother with a high end knife and by agreement with a customer.
Let us know how consistent you can get results with the paper wheels. I have had mixed results and don't bother with them much anymore.

I understand your position.  I'm a hobbyist and I have the time and inclination.  That said, consistency is what I'm after, so if paper wheels don't deliver, then I'll move on.  So far, paper wheels have given me quite good results though, so I'll carry on. 

3D Anvil

I've had the same issue and I've tried various pressures.  I can get rid of the chatter by increasing pressure, but I find that makes the blade hotter than I'm comfortable with.  I rarely use the paper wheels these days.

darita

Quote from: 3D Anvil on June 13, 2023, 06:47:51 AMI've had the same issue and I've tried various pressures.  I can get rid of the chatter by increasing pressure, but I find that makes the blade hotter than I'm comfortable with.  I rarely use the paper wheels these days.

I hear you on that.  I'm careful to take one pass at a time and allow a few seconds between for cooling.

RichColvin

I use paper wheels often.  I don't measure the results with a BESS tool, but I do like the consistency I get, especially with certain woodworking tools.  The paper wheels are a noticeable difference on my skews when turning softer woods like cherry and walnut. 
---------------------------
Rich Colvin
www.SharpeningHandbook.info - a reference guide for sharpening

You are born weak & frail, and you die weak & frail.  What you do between those is up to you.

kwakster

Maybe this is useful for other people as well.
I have coated the inside of the holes in my Paper Wheels with a few layers of the same woodglue i use for regritting.
Just put on a layer, spread it evenly with a matchstick or nail and let it dry overnight, repeat if necessary.
Not only does it remove any slop there might be, it also holds the round shape better than just the cardboard, which is especially useful for me since i change Wheels often.