Blade / Edge not square

[Segovia123]

I have never paid much attention to the squareness of the edge of my until this evening. 
 
I put a square on a chisel edge, and it out by about 1/16" - I would post a picture, but can't see how that's done.

I suspect it's because I have used the camber feature last time I used the Tormek, the lines look aligned now but it's still out. The chisel is square in the jig. How do I fine tune it to get it square ?

[Ken S]

Segovia,

Your question is answered in this recent post:



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#9

April 27, 2023, 03:40:50 PM
Darita,

You are in luck. Check out this video starting at 23:20. Stig talks about the SE-77, including an effective way to square up chisels.

https://www.youtube.com/live/8uLMWXqobRM?feature=share

Ken

He SE-76 is like a guitar with frets. The SE-77 is like a violin, with no frets. The "fret less" design allows more sophisticated camber control. It also requires more care in set up. If by chance, you are thinking the "fret" design might be a better choice for Tormek, several hundred years of violin makers might disagree. While the frets might be easier with chisels, the fret less SE-77 is far superior for plane blades.

You will want a small square and a black marker. Check your grinding early in the process.

Keep us posted.

Ken

[Segovia123]

Segovia,

Your question is answered in this recent post:



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Posts: 7,826
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#9

April 27, 2023, 03:40:50 PM
Darita,

You are in luck. Check out this video starting at 23:20. Stig talks about the SE-77, including an effective way to square up chisels.

https://www.youtube.com/live/8uLMWXqobRM?feature=share

Ken

He SE-76 is like a guitar with frets. The SE-77 is like a violin, with no frets. The "fret less" design allows more sophisticated camber control. It also requires more care in set up. If by chance, you are thinking the "fret" design might be a better choice for Tormek, several hundred years of violin makers might disagree. While the frets might be easier with chisels, the fret less SE-77 is far superior for plane blades.

You will want a small square and a black marker. Check your grinding early in the process.

Keep us posted.

Ken

Great, I'll give it a try. Never thought to do that. I also looked back at the manual and can see how the camber adjustments may need some tweaking and which direction to move it depending on where the out of square is

[Segovia123]

All sorted now, my wheel was also worn on one side which didn't help

[Ken S]

Good observation, Segovia. Experience taught me the value of more frequent light truing. Several years ago, I had an untrue wheel sneak up on me on three occasions. (I'm a slow learner.   )

Regular inspection of the trueness of the grinding wheel should be a routine part of our good housekeeping, just like regularly checking the oil level on your vehicle. I don't mean to sound preachy; I am among the less than overachievers. I do think reaching for this goal will eliminate many "gremlins".

Keep us posted.

Ken

[Segovia123]

Good observation, Segovia. Experience taught me the value of more frequent light truing. Several years ago, I had an untrue wheel sneak up on me on three occasions. (I'm a slow learner.   )

Regular inspection of the trueness of the grinding wheel should be a routine part of our good housekeeping, just like regularly checking the oil level on your vehicle. I don't mean to sound preachy; I am among the less than overachievers. I do think reaching for this goal will eliminate many "gremlins".

Keep us posted.

Ken

Considering it has very lite use I was surprised it needed truing

[Ken S]

In industry, it is considered good practice to true new grinding wheels before using them. (The exceptions being diamond and CBN wheels which have a thin coating of super abrasive)

Ken

[Herman Trivilino]

Considering it has very lite use I was surprised it needed truing

My grindstone did the same thing at first. I found that when I was sharpening knives I was applying more force to one side of the grindstone than the other.