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Problems with my new Tormek T8

Started by fzero, May 02, 2023, 10:12:22 PM

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fzero

Hello, first of all I'm not a champion in English, but I don't really know how to do it, all my wood chisel sharpening is crooked. The result is always same  :-\



I make sure that the adjustment of the support is well aligned.



When I put my wood chisel in the holder, I take my square and I make sure that there is a right angle



And the result for all sharpening is always the same... Always wrong, I don't know what to do.




I watched all the tutorials on youtube, and I've never seen this type of problem, my tormek T8 is new...
If you can help me, give me a clue, that would be great!

RichColvin

How do you install the USB & set it's height?
---------------------------
Rich Colvin
www.SharpeningHandbook.info - a reference guide for sharpening

You are born weak & frail, and you die weak & frail.  What you do between those is up to you.

RickKrung

Quote from: fzero on May 02, 2023, 10:12:22 PMHello, first of all I'm not a champion in English, but I don't really know how to do it, all my wood chisel sharpening is crooked. The result is always same  :-


I make sure that the adjustment of the support is well aligned.


When I put my wood chisel in the holder, I take my square and I make sure that there is a right angle


And the result for all sharpening is always the same... Always wrong, I don't know what to do.

I watched all the tutorials on youtube, and I've never seen this type of problem, my tormek T8 is new...
If you can help me, give me a clue, that would be great!


Have you studied the Tormek manual on use of the SE-77 jig, particularly where it involves adjusting the Fine Adjust Knobs for setting/changing the 90ยบ front bevel?  Are you familiar with those fine adjust screws (5)?  If not that is where you need to focus.  It starts on page 120 of my English manual.  Here is an excerpt showing the knobs and referring to where in the manual the description of their use is located.
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Also, it may not be helpful to have looked at ALL the supposed tutorial videos, more important to have watched the "right" ones.  There is a lot of crap out there in YT videos.  One has to be very discerning when it comes to YT videos. 

The "lines" you show are not exact and really for reference only.  They are parting lines on castings and are very wide/crude.  Whether they are exact or not, it doesn't matter, there is no guarantee that any chisel placed in the jig will turn out square even if those lines are lined up.  It is all controlled by those adjustment knobs AND how much pressure is applied (see below).
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Your bevel appears to be slightly cambered, albeit, by flats rather than a continuous curve.  Both sides fall off a bit from a flat face.  This is possibly a result of the two adjustment knobs not being tight.  Not being tight is exactly what is needed in order to impart a camber, but you do not want a camber, so those knobs must be completely tight. 
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Even if all is set up correctly, it is still possible to create that sort of angle on bevel by too much pressure on each side.  Might be described at rotational or just pressing down on the sides of the jig.  Prior to Tormek coming up with the camber adjustment knobs, I believe that was how cambers were created, by pressing down on the sides.

Have you gone back in the historical postings in the chisel subforum?  This has been discussed in great length many times.  Reading what has been asked and offered as solutions is usually where I start when faced with a new problem. 

Rick

 
Quality is like buying oats.  If you want nice, clean, fresh oats, you must pay a fair price. However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse, that comes at a lower price.

fzero

#3
Good evening,

First of all, I would like to sincerely thank you for the time you have devoted to answering me.

After 4 hours in my workshop, I think I have found the problem. All the tools I'm trying to get back into service are very old.

The series of the first 6 wood chisels that I tried to sharpen do not have their parallel side. If I take an example for one of them at the edge, the width is 30 mm and 5 cm from the edge the width is only 26 mm. by putting myself perpendicular, I create this famous angle, as we can see on the photos in the top of this topic.

I have not yet found a way to sharpen this type of tool, but with the device SE 77, I suppose that you have to use the Screws (5) to correct this bad angle.

I didn't understand everything, but I'll try again tomorrow
If you have any advice on how to make an adjustment I am a taker.

I don't really know how to look for topics on the forum I don't have enough vocabulary, I guess this type of case has already been dealt with, if you can help me find links, I can translate with google

Thanks again for all your advice.

micha

In addition to all the good thoughts mentioned, please keep in mind that the USB and the surface of the stone have to be parallel and the stone surface should be dead flat.
Despite the T-8 being new, trueing the stone before sharpening chisels might be a good idea.

tgbto

Quote from: micha on May 04, 2023, 10:59:40 AMIn addition to all the good thoughts mentioned, please keep in mind that the USB and the surface of the stone have to be parallel and the stone surface should be dead flat.
Despite the T-8 being new, trueing the stone before sharpening chisels might be a good idea.

Definitely.

I have not checked yet how square the edges and the flat of the stone are after trueing and locking the USB in place after the Tormek method.

I still have that gut feeling that the only assumption you can make is that the flat of the stone is parallel to the USB right after trueing. The method where you reference the side of the chisel to the side of the stone assumes that the USB is precisely perpendicular to the sides of the stone. And of course that the chisel has parallel edges and sits properly in the jig.