SVM-45 offset

[Sir Amwell]

Please forgive me if this has been covered before.
I was recently re-watching a Knifegrinders video about modifying SVM-45 jigs to handle thicker knives so they would be centered in the jig.
First question: has anyone on the forum proceeded with this? How did it work out?

A part of the video explains very clearly how to measure the jig 'offset' to come up with an ideal thickness of knife for each jig.

Second question: has anyone on the forum followed this and seen any real advantage for symmetrical bevels for 'normal' kitchen knives in the 2-3mm spine thickness?
You see Vadim said that a non modified SMV-45 would handle knives in that 2-3mm range then goes onto give an optimal based on the offset calculation.

This maybe a dead end but I'm interested in members thoughts on this. And please don't suggest getting the KJ45 to alleviate this potential problem. This is not what I'm interested in.

On reflection it is a very useful instructional video.

[cbwx34]

Just get the <kidding> 

Wasn't sure if you seen the thread on this:

Knife Jigs Solution

[Sir Amwell]

Thanks CB.
Yes I got the joke. Tee hee!
Very interesting thread you pointed to. The sense of excitement running through the posts is palpable.
Didn't answer my questions though?

[cbwx34]

Thanks CB.
Yes I got the joke. Tee hee!
Very interesting thread you pointed to. The sense of excitement running through the posts is palpable.
Didn't answer my questions though?

I never did it myself, so couldn't really answer your questions.  Only one I can think of that did it is RickKrung, and maybe Ken.

Just thought I'd point out the forum thread for the additional info.

[RickKrung]

Please forgive me if this has been covered before.
I was recently re-watching a Knifegrinders video about modifying SVM-45 jigs to handle thicker knives so they would be centered in the jig.
First question: has anyone on the forum proceeded with this? How did it work out?

A part of the video explains very clearly how to measure the jig 'offset' to come up with an ideal thickness of knife for each jig.

Second question: has anyone on the forum followed this and seen any real advantage for symmetrical bevels for 'normal' kitchen knives in the 2-3mm spine thickness?
You see Vadim said that a non modified SMV-45 would handle knives in that 2-3mm range then goes onto give an optimal based on the offset calculation.

This maybe a dead end but I'm interested in members thoughts on this. And please don't suggest getting the KJ45 to alleviate this potential problem. This is not what I'm interested in.

On reflection it is a very useful instructional video.

As mentioned in the thread CB quoted, I did those modifications and have been using the jigs that way ever since, with great success.  In fact, I use the shims with unmodified jigs as well, to improve centering for blades that are within the nominal centered range.  As mentioned in that thread, I shortened a set of feeler gauges, but I use a full length feeler gauge set with longer blades, even in the SVM-45 jig.  The table of gauge thicknesses posted in that thread is what I continue to use as a shim guide. 

I have been considering offering a machining service for modifiying the SVM-45 jigs.  Modifying the jigs is fairly straight forward.  The hold up has been the trouble and expense of modifying feeler gauge sets at a price I think people would be willing to afford. Price would be $30 to modify the SVM-45 jig, owner pays shipping both ways.  Price for a set of shortened feeler gauges would be more, due to the amount of work cutting and deburring each gauge.  I have a mini-chop saw coming that I believe will make good work of the cutting operation, so may soon be in a position to actually offer these (I have the cheap mini-chop saw commonly available in the import outlets, not adequate).

Expressions of interest are welcome. 

Rick

[Sir Amwell]

Thanks both CB and Rick.
Update: I got a local engineer to mill a couple of SVM 45s to Wootz specifications for a ridiculously low cost. He did a good job.
As a result I was able to grind a hunting knife with a 4.5mm spine with no wobble in the jig and very symmetrical bevels. So it's a good way to centre blades and works.
For most kitchen knives within the range of 2-3mm it's not necessary I suppose but nice to have the flexibility for custom knives with thicker or thinner stock.
Rick, I think offering a service for tailored shims of specific lengths to address this issue is potentially a good idea. For high end and thicker (eg cleavers and hunting knives or very thin slicers) this would be a boon to achieve symmetrical bevels without the constraints of the self centring KJ45.
For me in the UK the price and import costs would be prohibitive.
I'll get a few feeler gauges and get my engineer friend to cut them up and deburr them to meet my needs.
Any thoughts Ken?
Thanks again, love this forum!