There has got to be a better way!

[DavidWalser]

I bought my Tormek at last year's Desert Woodturning Roundup and I'm just getting around to using it for the first time.  (It's been very busy at my real job.)  Anyway, I'm trying to use the TTS-100 (and the rest of the Tormek jigs) to set up my skews and gouges.  Since my old free-hand "system" produced a different shape, I've got to reshape each of my tools -- which is taking foerever.  For example, it's taken over five hours of consistent effort to almost grind my 1" skew to it's new shape.  (It had a radius profile at about a 15 degree skew angle with about a 25 degree blade angle.  The new shape is straight across, 20 degree skew and whatever blade angle the TTS-100 sets for skews.)  I estimate it will take another hour of effort to get the last 1/4" of the long point done.  (The skew has a straight profile from the short point to within 1/4" of the long point.  I've got to grind the straight portion back another 1/8", or so, to get the straight profile across the skews entire width.)  For a change of pace, I spent the last half hour working on my 1/2" skew.  Since this skew is already straight across, and smaller, it should go quicker.  Still, it looks like it will be a multi-hour process.

What can I do to speed up this process?  I've been alternating from one side of the skew to the other every five minutes, moving the skew to a new part of the wheel every minute, and re-grading the wheel every 20 minutes.  I've been pressing the blade hard against the wheel.

I'm ready to go buy a slow-speed grinder and rig someway to use the TTS-100 and the rest of the Tormek system with the grinder.  Else, at two hours a night, I'll be reshaping bowl gouges this time next year!

[Jeff Farris]

When shaping skews, two points are critical to getting the job done efficiently.  

1) Use the vertical mounting position for the Universal Support.  The vertical mount delivers much faster grinding than the horizontal position.

2) Use the coarse side of the stone grader frequently and aggressively.  Engage the corner of the grader, rather than the flat surface and really scrub on the stone.  You should create some white lines in the surface of the stone and remove any trace of stain.

You might also want to take a look at our TNT-300 DVD and manual for sharpening turning tools.  It's been released since your purchase.

[DavidWalser]

Jeff,

Thank you for the prompt reply.  I have been using the vertical sharpening position (I switched after about 3 hours).  You're right, it does go faster.  I'll try using the corner of the stone grader.  

Where may I obtain the TNT-300 DVD and manual for sharpening turning tools?  I saw on Tormek's website that there was a new DVD and manual, but I couldn't find the DVD or manual for sale at CSUSA, Rockler, or the other website's linked to by Tormek.

When you talk with Tormek, tell them I'd be willing to purchase an 80 grit wheel for use in shaping my turning tools!  Right now, I'm very glad I don't have any of the new tools that are made with the new, more abrasive resistant steels!

[DavidWalser]

Well, my first two skews are done!  Using the corner of the stone grader sure does rough up the stone (good thing). Does some portion of the stone grader break off and embed itself in the wheel?  It sure left some wide and deep scratches in my high speed steel skew.

What really sped up the process, however, was shortening the exposure (P measurement).  I was using the 65mm exposure recommended in the TTS-100 manual (the one that has since been replaced).  That P value leaves a much longer bevel than I am used to.  Then, I double checked the sheet that came with the system from Craft Supplies USA.  They recommended a P value of 55mm, which results in a shorter bevel and much less grinding.

[Jeff Farris]

Nothing embeds in the wheel, and the second step (other side of the stone grader) should quickly reduce the size of the scratches.

Glad you got where you wanted to be.

[clark oneill]

i've just received the same jigs as dave and attempted to sharpen my 5/8" lacer skew last night. first of all, tormek makes mention of lacer somewhere in their literature so they should know he recommends the bevel width be 1.5 times the skew thickness. that converts to about a 39 deg included angle. so when i set up the jig according to the instructions i get the 30 deg built into the jig. that's a lot of grinding on the heel portion of the lacer skew...i gave up.  

adjusted the distance from the tool rest to the wheel and went for the existing 39 deg angle already in the tool. but i really wanted to take advantage of the built in spacing in the tm100...i'm disappointed.

next problem the wheel grader stone is slick with use...never noticed how poorly it graded the wheel until last night when i wanted a really aggressive grinder to get close to the finished profile.
QUESTION:  is there any good way to freshen up the grading stone??? the fine side is good, is just the coarse side that's filled in with something. i can use the edges but i'd like to freshen this stone up.

[Jeff Farris]

Clark,

Change the protrusion that you're using by 10mm (65 instead of 75) and you should come very close to Lacer's 1.5 times thickness.  

In 18 years of using the Tormek, I have never found a need to do anything to the stone grader.  Use the corner, that's where the fast cleaning action is.

[clark oneill]

jeff, thanks for the reply. i will mess around some more with the settings to see if i can use the toolrest placement feature that i would prefer to use rather than my usual sharpie marking/trial and error method. dave was right when he said tormek could sell an 80 grit wheel as aftermarket.

the fine side of the grader is cupped and worn but not slick looking.  but the coarse side really looks slick in spots. it has been used a lot as i've had this system for a long time. they're not that expensive so i may just replace it. what is the material that side is made of? a norton flattening plate would probably not touch it and they're more expensive than a new grader.

[Jeff Farris]

I'm not sure exactly what the stone grader is made from.  It is some blend of silicon carbide.

[clark oneill]

jeff, an update..my work this week end took me to spindle and bowl gouges so i had my first chance to use the new tm100 setting device for them. i have been setting up the tormek by using sharpie coloring and the tm100 system changed the settings slightly but the ability to set up quickly on both the grinding and polishing wheels is impressive.

i also roughed up the grinding wheel using the edges of the grader stone and that works as well. i did find a norton grading stone that appears to be made of the same material as the tormek grader at a farm&fleet store. it appears to be close to the tormek rough side but maybe not quite as rough. it will work on my conventional grinding wheels.

i will attempt the skews soon with a much roughed up tormek stone. thanks for your help. i have a few other thoughts on the skew attachments i'll save for a later date.