Paper Wheel Help Needed...

[darita]

So I'm trying to follow Vadim's protocols for derooting/deburring/polishing after Tormek, using 10" slotted paper wheels on a 1/2 speed grinder.  Two of the wheels have very little wobble, however a third wheel has enough wobble to cause whatever runs against the wheel surface to bounce around.  I checked runout on the arbor and it has less than .001" of runout.  I was in the process of using 80 grit sand paper to true up the wheel surface when I noticed the bounce.  Will truing the surface get rid of the bounce or is there another way to smooth it out?

[Ken S]

What did the manufacturer and/or vendor of the paper wheels say?

Ken

[darita]

What did the manufacturer and/or vendor of the paper wheels say?

Ken

Ken, I'm waiting for a response.  If the other two wheels were just as bad, I'd figure it was something to do with how the wheel tightens on the shaft.  Since the other two wheels are well within usability, I'm just not sure.

[Sir Amwell]

The manufacturer of my 10" paper wheels ( Brisa) recommends spending time getting the wheel running as true as possible by repeatedly re-seating the wheel on the arbor until there is as little wobble as possible. A little wobble side to side is no problem. Then true the wheel exactly as you have been doing to remove any high spots. Wrap your sandpaper round a solid square block ( wood or metal) and keeping constant pressure sand away until the bumpiness goes. You should be fine.

[darita]

Cool, thanks. I'm also in the process of seeing if I can somehow adapt the stone truer to help me out.

[Ken S]

Many non Tormek circular accessories (grinding and honing wheels) were originally designed for 1/2" or 5/8" shafts and require adaptors. Once a well fitted adaptor is added, this is not a problem.
I would try a coarse scotchbrite sanding block instead of the truing tool.

Keep us posted.

Ken

[darita]

Well, I tried the truing tool and that didn't really workout.  I then tried sandpaper of a flat block resting on the USB thinking that the highs would be sanded down to the lows.  Well, what actually happened was that both highs and lows were sanded, so although there was a slight reduction, mostly the entire surface was reduced.  Now all I have is a smaller wheel with the same highs and lows.

[cbwx34]

Don't "over analyze" paper wheels... just put some compound on them and start using them.  Then address any issues that cause actual problems.  Most "problems" won't matter in use.

[3D Anvil]

My paper wheels work fine freehand, but if I use the USB and Tormek jig, the blade bounces too much.  I can stop that by applying more pressure, but that results in a lot of heat, and the combination of pressure and vibration often causes the blade to move in the jig.  No bueno.

[darita]

Now I'm thinking a faster speed might help smooth things out rather than the slow speed I have now.  Wootz used a 10" wheel on an 8" 2800 rpm polisher, so...

[3D Anvil]

I'm pretty sure Wootz was using half-speed grinders/buffers.

[darita]

From what I've seen, he was using Optimum PSM 200 polishers. From what I could find, they are 2800 rpm. Also, in a thread, he's talking about his polishers being 2800 rpm. If that changed, please let me know. That's something I was confused about.

[Sir Amwell]

Pretty sure the rpm recommended by Vadim was half that. Around 1400.

[cbwx34]

Slotted paper wheel with diamonds in an oil-based paste does not overheat the edge, whether run
on half- or full-speed grinder/buffer

http://knifegrinders.com.au/SET/Heat_in_Sharpening.pdf

[darita]

Thanks for the link.  Lots of good info there.  From what I've seen on KG, he used a few different machines, like a Vicmarc DS 200 S and the Optimum, which are both 2800 rpm machines.  I also gleaned this from the link...