Solinger dünnschliff gemüsemesser

[pocket]

I'm looking for the best way to sharpen knives like this one: https://www.windmuehlenmesser.de/produkt/klassiker-benelux-rotbuche/

As it is important to keep the dünnschliff, I've experimented with hand sharpening, on the top and on the side of the stone (SG-200) graded at 1000. I keep the blade to the stone and put a little bit more pressure on the edge side. The result is only so-so. Perhaps the diamond stone (fine or very fine) would yield a better result? And what about using the MB-100?

Questions, questions. I hope someone can help😀

[cbwx34]

I'm looking for the best way to sharpen knives like this one: https://www.windmuehlenmesser.de/produkt/klassiker-benelux-rotbuche/

As it is important to keep the dünnschliff, I've experimented with hand sharpening, on the top and on the side of the stone (SG-200) graded at 1000. I keep the blade to the stone and put a little bit more pressure on the edge side. The result is only so-so. Perhaps the diamond stone (fine or very fine) would yield a better result? And what about using the MB-100?

Questions, questions. I hope someone can help😀

No need for diamond or MB-100.  I would:

• Mark the edge with a Sharpie
• See if you can achieve the current angle with the standard jig by seeing where Sharpie is removed
• If not, I would consider Tormek's SVM-00 jig.  This would allow you to achieve a lower angle on the blade.

It's just a standard carbon blade (based on the website).  The website shows a 15° edge total, if true you will either need to freehand sharpen or try the SVM-00.  (That's not the norm...)   



Honing the edge will be key also.

[micha]

Peter,

in my understanding the dünnschliff is not the same as a scandi grind. It's more about the geometry of the blade itself.
That doesn't mean you wouldn't put a standard 'microbevel' edge on it.
Sharpening can IMHO be done following the standard procedure, at least that's what I do with mine.

Mike

[van]

Hi, if the blade is well centered on the handle you should use the SVM-00

[Dutchman]

I have been using such a "Molenmes" for over 30 years. Here in the Netherlands it is very popular and is known for not requiring sharpening. Sometimes a few strokes with the honing steel is enough to keep it sharp. The only drawback of this knife is that it is not stainless. So always clean after use.

[pocket]

I 've tried using the SVM-00 (can't reach the angle with the SVM-45), but I end up just scratching the middle of the blade (probably due to the rounding of the stone). I would like to keep the original shape of the blade, so thinly ground, w/o a micro-bevel.

Honing on the leather wheel certainly helps a lot.

The best result is still using wetstones and laying the knife flat on the stone, twisting the handle just lightly to put a little bit more pressure on the front of the blade. It works great, but is a little time-consuming.

I've tried to measure the angle but it's very difficult, because the knife is very small and thin. I get an included angle of 3-5°, I can't find the 15° you mention on the website.

Thank you all for your help and insights

I'm looking for the best way to sharpen knives like this one: https://www.windmuehlenmesser.de/produkt/klassiker-benelux-rotbuche/

As it is important to keep the dünnschliff, I've experimented with hand sharpening, on the top and on the side of the stone (SG-200) graded at 1000. I keep the blade to the stone and put a little bit more pressure on the edge side. The result is only so-so. Perhaps the diamond stone (fine or very fine) would yield a better result? And what about using the MB-100?

Questions, questions. I hope someone can help😀

No need for diamond or MB-100.  I would:

• Mark the edge with a Sharpie
• See if you can achieve the current angle with the standard jig by seeing where Sharpie is removed
• If not, I would consider Tormek's SVM-00 jig.  This would allow you to achieve a lower angle on the blade.

It's just a standard carbon blade (based on the website).  The website shows a 15° edge total, if true you will either need to freehand sharpen or try the SVM-00.  (That's not the norm...)   



Honing the edge will be key also.

[pocket]

Dutchman, I'm from Belgium, and I'm sure the Molenmes is present in nearly every household here😁. It indeed stays sharp very well, but with extended use it gets nicks and dents, I can't get out with a honing rod. It's a cheap knife, but still a lot of people ask me to get it in working condition again. Hence my question.

I have been using such a "Molenmes" for over 30 years. Here in the Netherlands it is very popular and is known for not requiring sharpening. Sometimes a few strokes with the honing steel is enough to keep it sharp. The only drawback of this knife is that it is not stainless. So always clean after use.

[cbwx34]

I 've tried using the SVM-00 (can't reach the angle with the SVM-45), but I end up just scratching the middle of the blade (probably due to the rounding of the stone). I would like to keep the original shape of the blade, so thinly ground, w/o a micro-bevel.

Honing on the leather wheel certainly helps a lot.

The best result is still using wetstones and laying the knife flat on the stone, twisting the handle just lightly to put a little bit more pressure on the front of the blade. It works great, but is a little time-consuming.

I've tried to measure the angle but it's very difficult, because the knife is very small and thin. I get an included angle of 3-5°, I can't find the 15° you mention on the website.

Thank you all for your help and insights

That picture came for this page...  https://www.windmuehlenmesser.de/warenkunde/materialien/

It sounds like the knife is a scandi grind?  I thought from the website pictures it had a small bevel on it.  If it doesn't then what you're doing is probably the best idea... I wouldn't use the Tormek at all.  If you do use the Tormek, then you'll probably have to put a small microbevel on it like micha mentioned.

Peter,

in my understanding the dünnschliff is not the same as a scandi grind. It's more about the geometry of the blade itself.
That doesn't mean you wouldn't put a standard 'microbevel' edge on it.
Sharpening can IMHO be done following the standard procedure, at least that's what I do with mine.

Mike

Personally, this is what I'd do, if you wanted to use the Tormek on it, (with the addition of what I posted earlier).  I think even with a microbevel, you'd end up with a very sharp knife and easier to remove the damage you mentioned, and maintain.

p.s.  (Even on a flat stone, I'd do this.)

[GKC]

Hand-sharpening these little paring knives on a flat stone produces the best result for me, and I find that it is faster than fussing with jigs. The blade achieves its excellent paring ability by the thinness of the blade. Though the website picture of the grind shows a gentle convexity, I think that this might be to illustrate the point they are trying to make about the blade staying sharp as its metal disappears over time. When I look at mine, they are a full flat grind. I maintain the grind the way you are doing it now (flat on the stone with slight extra pressure on the edge). In the long run this will introduce a slight convexity but the blade is so thin that convexity or even a micro bevel will not diminish the paring ability (and a little micro bevel might improve edge retention). I note that the Herder website shows sharpening with a honing rod at an angle that will clearly produce a micro bevel.  By the way, I (and others with this knife) sometimes whittle back the handle 4-5mm, at least on the cutting side, to improve access to the edge.

[cbwx34]

Hand-sharpening these little paring knives on a flat stone produces the best result for me, and I find that it is faster than fussing with jigs. The blade achieves its excellent paring ability by the thinness of the blade. Though the website picture of the grind shows a gentle convexity, I think that this might be to illustrate the point they are trying to make about the blade staying sharp as its metal disappears over time. When I look at mine, they are a full flat grind. I maintain the grind the way you are doing it now (flat on the stone with slight extra pressure on the edge). In the long run this will introduce a slight convexity but the blade is so thin that convexity or even a micro bevel will not diminish the paring ability (and a little micro bevel might improve edge retention). I note that the Herder website shows sharpening with a honing rod at an angle that will clearly produce a micro bevel.  By the way, I (and others with this knife) sometimes whittle back the handle 4-5mm, at least on the cutting side, to improve access to the edge.

I'd honestly be surprised if it was flat ground all the way to the edge, but your sharpening method sure indicates it.

Dutchman, I'm from Belgium, and I'm sure the Molenmes is present in nearly every household here😁. It indeed stays sharp very well, but with extended use it gets nicks and dents, I can't get out with a honing rod. It's a cheap knife, but still a lot of people ask me to get it in working condition again. Hence my question.

You could adopt what some straight razor sharpeners do... tape the spine which will give it a slight unnoticeable angle, and should speed up the process, if it is really a flat grind.  (On a flat stone of course).

[pocket]

Thank you all for your insights and thoughts.

On Youtube I found this wonderful documentary on the art of the Solinger Dünnschliff : https://youtu.be/heIq9I1wjmA

Enjoy👍

[Pietje]

Hello!
Solinger dünnschliff is very exciting.
I have it on an Wüsthoff Chefknife 205 and on a Wüsthoff Nakiri 165.

The german Godfather of grinding is

Jürgen Schanz
Schneidwerkzeugmechanikermeister
Karlsfeldstrasse 13
D-76297 Stutensee
Tel: +49-(0)7249-95 25 09
Fax: +49-(0)7249-43 79
https://www.schanz-messer.de/kunsthandwerk/kontakt/

The Homepage is also in English.

The dünnschliff is about 25 € for each of my knives.