Often Ignored Jig

[RichColvin]

I was sharpening my wife's paring knives today and found that the SVM-00 jig (held in an SVM-45 jig) is a great way to hold the knives.  As the knives are symmetrical side-to-side, this really made sharpening them easier!  This little jig is one that I think is often ignored.

[cbwx34]

I was sharpening my wife's paring knives today and found that the SVM-00 jig (held in an SVM-45 jig) is a great way to hold the knives.  As the knives are symmetrical side-to-side, this really made sharpening them easier!  This little jig is one that I think is often ignored.

Very true.

It can also be used to hit lower angles (if desired) on some knives, where the regular jig might get in the way.

[3D Anvil]

I used it to sharpen a couple of paring knives yesterday.  Worked fine, but it's a bit fiddly getting the knives mounted straight.  The method Tormek recommends--laying the blade and jig bar flat on a table--doesn't account for the angle of the primary grind (usually around 2°), so that's guaranteed to be off.  I did it by eye, but when you tighten the handle screw the jig may have other ideas.

[Ken S]

I agree that the SVM-00 is a useful jig. I included it with my original instructions for using the kenjig. Combined with the SVM-45, it brings small paring knives to 139mm Projection. It is really designed for small blades with substantial wooden handles. It works very well with carving knives. I have found that clamping pocket knives can be somewhat problematic.

Ken

[RichColvin]

... I have found that clamping pocket knives can be somewhat problematic.

Ken

Agree with that.

[Scotty]

Ken jig?

[cbwx34]

Ken jig?

Or... Adjustable Kenjig...





Might be needed with the new KJ-45...

[Ken S]

Good thought, CB. However, it is overkill. All I need is a few more kenjigs, with grooves cut every five millimeters from around 80 to 100mm. Add a metric rule (or the back of a kenjig with calibrated pencil marks) and a copy of Dutchman's table for the diameter of the grinding wheel. I'm good to go.

Ken

[Scotty]

Thanks.
I am interested in your system.
I am currently a KG disciple but am always interested in different methods.
Can you aim me at a tutorial of more info? Thanks

[Ken S]

Scotty,
Do a google search for "kenjig instructions". You will find the illustrated PDF I did several years ago. I will eventually update it to incorporate the new KJ-45 jig; however, the PDF will give you a flavor of the kenjig.
Ken

[RichColvin]

Here's the info:  https://sharpeninghandbook.info/indexJigs.html#KenJig

[Scotty]

Thanks

[cbwx34]

Good thought, CB. However, it is overkill. All I need is a few more kenjigs, with grooves cut every five millimeters from around 80 to 100mm. Add a metric rule (or the back of a kenjig with calibrated pencil marks) and a copy of Dutchman's table for the diameter of the grinding wheel. I'm good to go.

Ken

Maybe true, but that's why I added "Might be needed with the new KJ-45...".  Unlike wheel size, angle change is affected greater by Projection Distance, so 5mm grooves might not be sufficient.  (It only takes a couple mm difference in the PD vs. the 10mm of wheel size to change the angle).

In my mind I see no difference in just setting the USB height vs. trying to clamp the knife to a particular measurement... might have been easier when you could just adjust the stop collar, but now I agree with the statement Tormek made in their video that the adjustment is now made at the USB.

I still agree with the "Kenjig" concept, just think you might need something more adaptable.  And you can get calipers fairly cheap, especially non-digital ones, that are accurate enough for this purpose.  Just lock it in place and you have an "instant Kenjig", but one you can adjust a bit more if needed.

[Ken S]

Well stated, CB. I have always viewed the kenjig concept as continually evolving.
Ken