Diamond Wheel Help, Please...

[darita]

I have a Supergrind 2005.  I want to do some lite regrinds and want to switch to a diamond wheel for consistency.  I'd like avoid deep scratch marks to limit the hand work after.  Which diamond wheel would you suggest I get?

[Ken S]

Derek,

I would start with the DF-250 600 grit diamond wheel. The diamond wheels cut more aggressively than the other wheels; grit numbers are not the last word.

Ken

[darita]

Thanks Ken.  And what are your thoughts of diamond vs CBN?

[tgbto]

Keep in mind also that you will indeed have deep scratch marks for as long as the diamonds are not broken in. And even after that, although it won't matter for eventual sharpness.

[Ken S]

Derek,

Choosing any grinding wheel is a process of considering pros and cons. Any of the superabrasive wheels, diamond or CBN, will require a short breaking in period. After half a dozen edges, you will have passed through the break in period. Just set aside a few tools or knives which need more extensive grinding.
(You may end up wishing that the break in period lasted longer!)

The DF, Fine Diamond 600 grit wheel is a good balance between fast cutting and smooth finish. 600 grit is popular among SG users. Using the stone grader is not either/or with 220 and 1000. I think of the two numbers as just more coarse and more fine. "600 grit" is just an in between grit with the stone grader, rather than an exact number. Tormek also chose 600 grit as the primary grinding wheel for the T2 and the only grit for the T1.

Diamond or CBN? In truth, they both work. Part of the problem in sifting through the comparative information is separating out the sales talk. If the vendor is selling wheels which he recommends using dry, water becomes "messy". If he is selling wheels which use plain water without needing antioxident solution, the solution becomes "expensive".

In my opinion, CBN wheels were primarily designed  for sharpening woodturning tools using high speed dry
grinders. They do this very well. Until recently, the choice of grits was primarily 80 and 180. I think use with the Tormek was an after thought. In fairness, I must state that more recent CBN wheels have been more Tormek friendly. Also my opinion, I think using a dry wheel defeats one of the primary advantages of the wet grinding Tormek, dust free grinding.

I think "consistency" can be overblown. True, the SG, SB, and SJ wheels do require occasional truing and adjusting for wheel wear. (If you are still using the original truing tool, the new version of the TR-50 is a real improvement.) Once again, consistency is highly prized by vendors who sell consistent wheels. The old SG, while not as consistent, has the variable grit (stone grader) feature. the grit runs all through the wheel, making it possible to repair the wheel.

I think anyone wanting to replace his SG should do so while there is still some useful life remaining. There are some situations best suited to the SG, such as when you might want to shape the wheel with a slight radius to sharpen concave knives. Having life left in your SG gives you options.

I admit to having a slight bias toward diamond wheels because they are Tormek products. I do not mean to have negative implications about CBN.

Ken

[Stickan]

Hi,
Just a tip of a part of our website that has information regarding this,

https://www.tormek.com/usa/en/knowledge-inspiration/diamond-wheel-sharpening/

Best,
Stig

[darita]

Just purchased the Fine Diamond wheel.  Hope it doesn't take long to get here.  Thanks for all the help.  One of the reasons I wanted it was because I use the CalCap calculator for reprofiling knives prior to using my guided knife sharpener.