New member with a new T-8 and a few questions.

[highpower]

Hello group. I am new here but have been reading through the forum to gain as much information as possible before I start to use my new Tormek machine. I have also watched most of the Tormek videos and have found them to be most helpful! I have a mechanical background (retired now) and have an obsession with precision in general. I have no talent for woodworking but I do enjoy doing my own machining and metal work at home. My main reasons for investing in a Tormek system is that I have never been able to maintain consistent angles when grinding/honing an edge free hand. Knives, scissors, drill bits, lathe bits etc. Enter the T-8!   

On to the questions:
I also just purchased a SB-250 stone for the machine and saw something that pokes at my obsession. When I opened the box the new wheel has a couple of small chips at the edges of the center bore. While I know it would be perfectly fine to use as-is, it would still bother me just knowing they are there. I want to fill in those areas with a 2-part epoxy to keep the wheel square to the shaft and to help prevent any further chipping from occurring when changing wheels on the machine. I have experience with glass bedding rifle actions to get 100% contact to keep things in alignment and prevent shifting. Is there any particular reason I should NOT do this on the SB stone? I'm afraid the chips at the edges might allow the stone to 'tilt' on the shaft a bit.

Also while reading through the forum I saw mention of someone creating a list of the acronyms used here for those of us not quite familiar with their meaning yet. Does this list exist and if so where can I find it? Thank you in advance!

[cbwx34]

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On to the questions:
I also just purchased a SB-250 stone for the machine and saw something that pokes at my obsession. When I opened the box the new wheel has a couple of small chips at the edges of the center bore. While I know it would be perfectly fine to use as-is, it would still bother me just knowing they are there. I want to fill in those areas with a 2-part epoxy to keep the wheel square to the shaft and to help prevent any further chipping from occurring when changing wheels on the machine. I have experience with glass bedding rifle actions to get 100% contact to keep things in alignment and prevent shifting. Is there any particular reason I should NOT do this on the SB stone? I'm afraid the chips at the edges might allow the stone to 'tilt' on the shaft a bit.
...

My.02... those chips won't matter... I wouldn't worry about them.  As wide as the stone is, there's little chance of it "tilting" on the shaft, plus the contact points on the edge are wider than where those chips are.

...
Also while reading through the forum I saw mention of someone creating a list of the acronyms used here for those of us not quite familiar with their meaning yet. Does this list exist and if so where can I find it? Thank you in advance!

I can't think of a reference here (or anything for acronyms)... but a good website to refer to is forum member Rich Colvin's Sharpening Handbook.  It has a lot of info for specific uses, etc.

[Ken S]

Highpower,

I'm basically in the "don't worry about it" camp like CB; however, if epoxy can be filed or ground, it might not be a bad idea. With your glass bedding experience, you are in a better place to decide that than me.
Please keep us posted.

Ken

PS Your glass bedding rifle experience reminds me of a couple friends who upgraded the cannon they were shooting competitively with Timken tapered roller bearings. They hit a 55 gallon drum 19 out of20 times at 400 yards.

[highpower]

My.02... those chips won't matter... I wouldn't worry about them.  As wide as the stone is, there's little chance of it "tilting" on the shaft, plus the contact points on the edge are wider than where those chips are.

I can't think of a reference here (or anything for acronyms)... but a good website to refer to is forum member Rich Colvin's Sharpening Handbook.  It has a lot of info for specific uses, etc.

So noted. Thank you for the input. Actually I just received an email from Mattias at customer support stating basically the same thing. He said I don't need to fill them in but I can if I wanted to. Pretty much what I expected. What I did not expect are the speedy replies so many thanks for that! 

I suppose I am a bit leery about the run out on grinding wheels after a purchase of an import carbide tool grinder I got several years ago. The wheels wobbled and vibrated badly  due to the sloppy fit of the wheel hubs on the motor shafts. Cast aluminum (aluminium) with multiple voids in the hubs and had oversize bores as well. I machined 2 new hubs from solid round stock. The original hubs had a .125" (3,2 mm) total indicated run out whereas my home made hubs now have a .0002" (5 µm) TIR. I've been a stickler for getting grinding wheels to run true ever since.

I have already book marked Rich's web page several days ago after seeing it suggested so many times and agree it is a great source of information. Looking forward to gaining an education on how to best use the machine to get the best results. Thank you again. 

[highpower]

Highpower,

I'm basically in the "don't worry about it" camp like CB; however, if epoxy can be filed or ground, it might not be a bad idea. With your glass bedding experience, you are in a better place to decide that than me.
Please keep us posted.

Ken

PS Your glass bedding rifle experience reminds me of a couple friends who upgraded the cannon they were shooting competitively with Timken tapered roller bearings. They hit a 55 gallon drum 19 out of20 times at 400 yards.

Hi Ken,

I thought that would be the consensus here but I thought it best to ask just the same. My intention is to fill in the chipped areas with an epoxy bedding compound filled with finely ground stainless steel particles for strength. It is easily worked with sharp tooling but probably won't be necessary in this case as I can simply fit a 12 mm drill blank into the bore and form a nice concentric hole at each end. Probably not needed but cheap insurance against further chipping in my mind.

LOL. No cannon experience here but I have done my fair share of competitive rifle shooting. 'Service rifle" class shot in multiple stages from 200 to 600 yards with nothing more than a sling and standard issue open/iron sights. The bullseye gets to be mighty small looking out at 600. 

[Ken S]

We often bring different ideas, which I think makes this forum more useful.

In general there are two ideas, my idea and the wrong way......

Ken

[highpower]

Indeed. 

[highpower]

...
Also while reading through the forum I saw mention of someone creating a list of the acronyms used here for those of us not quite familiar with their meaning yet. Does this list exist and if so where can I find it? Thank you in advance!

I can't think of a reference here (or anything for acronyms)... but a good website to refer to is forum member Rich Colvin's Sharpening Handbook.  It has a lot of info for specific uses, etc.

My bad. I remember reading some of the posts in https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=4237.0 but I guess it never came to pass. 

[RickKrung]

I compiled a list of jig numbers and their names, in response to that thread.  I thought something got posted, in the general forum, but maybe it isn't a sticky that stays at the top.  I've attached my PDF, lets see if it shows up.  [Edit: Yup, the PDF is there, but here also is a JPG]


Rick

[RichColvin]

The list of parts from Tormek is here also https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=4865.0

[tgbto]

Probably not needed but cheap insurance against further chipping in my mind.

I'm not sure it would be, right ? You will probaly only fill the area which has cracked yet, or else you'd be modifying the internal geometry of the bore, which could in turn skew the wheel.

In that case, not only won't it prevent a non-epoxied sector to chip, but if there is just a tiny step between your repair and the rest of the bore, wouldn't that precisely give the shaft some purchase to catch on the epoxy and push it outwards, with the risk of creating new cracks ?

[Ken S]

tgbto,

I do not think your post is inappropriate. I do have mixed feelings about the lexicon/list concept.

We already have multiple sources covering most of this material on various levels. For example, with jig names and descriptions: Perhaps the quickest source is the tormek.com website. This has the added advantage of being available in several languages. Go to the jigs tab and down to overview. This has photos of the various jigs and their designations. This is all you need to correctly note the correct jig designation in a forum post. Clicking on the photo will bring up more information, including a more in depth description, instruction booklet, and often videos.

We have the handbook. Like the website, the handbook is also available in several languages. Torgny Jansson, inventor of the Tormek, also wrote the handbook. We would do well to accept the handbook definitions of terms as our official definitions. Every Tormek sold includes a printed copy of the handbook. It is also available online and can be downloaded. If the handbook seems slow to use, it is because we are not sufficiently familiar with it.
More to follow.

Ken

[tgbto]

Ken, I guess you're referring to my other post about the lexicon.

The idea was not to replace the excellent sources you've listed. As you say, they are many, many of them. The idea was therefore rather to have some kind of a one-stop-shop for members when a question occurs. So that we would not say: for DBS, please look there, for DPS, elsewhere ...

[highpower]

The only thing I was referring to was some of the acronyms used in some posts that a newbie like myself have no idea of their meaning. As an example I'll use this quote from the other thread:

Think that would be great, what i missed in the beginning and still do sometime is a dictionary for all abbreviations like CBN, USB, BESS, FVB, DPS and so on.

CBN (Cubic Boron Nitride) I am already familiar with - unless it has a totally different meaning here for something else. USB threw me for a short time because I am used to that being a type of communications connector. My Tormek has a USB port? 

One I figured out it was short-hand for universal support bar it made sense. If I see one with a number behind it, that is easily recognized as a Tormek part number or jig. But what about the other ones? BESS, FVB or DPS? I don't see any such listings in my handbook for those.

Edit:

OK, never mind. I should have read tgbto's lexicon thread before responding in this one. My answers were finally found right here spelled out for a newbie to understand. Mea culpa.

[highpower]

Done. Just need to let it sit for about a week to fully harden and then touch up the counter bores with an end mill to flatten them.